Trekking in Bhutan

Map key

Overview map

Foreword by Her Majesty the Queen of Bhutan

Prefaces

Introduction

The thrill of Bhutan

Preparations and practicalities

Trekking

Climate and trekking seasons

Organising a trek

Getting there and getting around

Accommodation and food

Environmental and cultural awareness

Equipment and maps

Medical considerations

Using this guide

All about Bhutan

Protected areas

Plantlife

Wildlife

Yaks and yak herding

The formation of the mountains

Rivers and glaciers

Mountaineering in Bhutan

Buddhism and local beliefs

West Bhutan

The Haa Valley

Trek 1 Haa Planters’ Trail

Trek 2 Nob Tshona Patta Tsho and Rigona Tsho

Lunana

Trek 3 The Lunana ‘Snowman’ Trek

Trek 3A Lunana to Bumthang

Trek 4 The Jhomolhari Bonte La Circuit

Trek 5 Shana to Thimphu via Lingshi

Trek 6 Masa Gang Base Camp from Laya

Trek 7 The Druk Path Trek

The Dagala (Thousand Lakes) Trek

Trek 8 Geynikha to Talakha

Trek 8A Geynikha to Dagana

The Phobjika Valley

Trek 9 The Original Gangte Trek

Trek 9A A Southern Gangte Trek

Central Bhutan

The Black Mountains

Trek 10 The Nabji Korphu Trek

Trek 11 The Nubi Chutey Trek

Trek 12 Trongsa to Dur Tsachu

Trek 13 Bumthang to Lunana

Gangkar Punsum

Trek 14 Gangkar Punsum Base Camp via Dur Tsachu

Trek 15 Gangkar Punsum southeast face via Thole La

Trek 16 Gangkar Punsum southeast face and Base Camp

Bumthang

Trek 17 Bumthang Cultural Trek, Tang valley and Lhuntshi valley

Trek 18 Bumthang Owl Trek and the Royal Heritage Trek

Zhemgang

Trek 19 The Ura Buli Trek

East Bhutan

Trek 20 Rigsum Gompa to Dechhenphodrang

Trek 21 The Merak Sakteng Trek

Trek 22 The Far-Out East Bhutan Trek

Appendix A Route summary table

Appendix B List of maps

Appendix C Useful contacts

Appendix D Useful terms and acronyms

Appendix E Bibliography

Appendix F Acknowledgements

Gyo Gompa near Lingshi (Trek 3, Day 4)

Check out the internet for general lists of recommended equipment for going on trek (some of which is available in Bhutan). The most important items are:

Backpack with waterproof cover: big enough to carry personal items such as a first aid kit; (two) water bottle(s); snacks; camera; jacket; fleece; warm hat and gloves; sun cream; umbrella; sunhat; lip balm; whistle; small torch; bird/flower book. Kitbag with lock (duffle bag) for storing personal items: these will all be packed into big plastic bags, only accessible at camp Walking boots: the most important piece of equipment. Wear them on the plane to make sure they don’t go missing in your hold luggage! Socks and inner soles: these can make a big difference to how comfortable you are. Light shoes/sandals/trainers: to wear around the campsite Gaiters Underwear: it’s important that the material is thin and strong, fast-drying and very comfortable. They should not restrict movement in any way. Shorts are not considered sufficiently modest in some parts of Bhutan. Rain jacket and trousers: a Gore-Tex jacket-and-trousers combination is ideal for rain protection. Make sure the jacket has a hood. A poncho or umbrella is useful. Down jacket Sleeping bag and mattress Fleece pullovers/shirts: merino wool T-shirts make good walking tops but at camp you need a thicker, fleece pullover. Gloves/hats: make sure to bring spare gloves and hats. Put them in your pack: you never know when the weather will get cold. Wearing a hat (even while sleeping) can reduce your body’s heat loss by up to 35 per cent. Be sure to have a hat for protection against the sun (and a spare one). Sunglasses: it is important to have good UV protection. Bring along old sunglasses (and reading glasses) to give away to Bhutanese along the route. Walking pole: one or two poles? Two can take time to get used to. One pole is very useful for balance – crossing a stream or river, boulder hopping, helping yourself up – as well as pushing stray dogs and pack animals away or even as a spare tent pole or camera tripod. Flashlight or torch Personal medical kit: (see ‘Medical considerations’) Ask your doctor what to take. Pocket knife with scissors and can opener Whistle Towel Sun cream and lip protection Soap and biodegradable washing liquid/powder

Organised treks tend to be ‘all inclusive’ and at any rate, there is not a lot to buy on route: maybe a yak rope, a Tibetan rug or some snacks in Laya. It is advisable to bring around $50 in Bhutanese ngultrum plus some extra cash for the staff tip at the end of the trip.

Jhomolhari Trek Comprehensive Trekking Map 1:200,000 (Bart Jordans, 2016 published by Nepa Maps) – covering the western part of Bhutan (other trekking areas to follow in the future). Bhutan 1:250,000 (Reise Know-How, 2016) – excellent map with general information and trekking routes. Bhutan 1:500.000 (Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1996) – limited information. ‘North-western Bhutan’ by Michael Ward, The Geographical Journal, December 1966. Also published in Michael Ward’s book In This Short Span (London, 1972). Good details and interesting for the Lunana Trek. Highly detailed sketch map of Lunana by Augusto Gansser. In The Mountain World (Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1968/69).

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If you'd like to visit Bhutan for some multi-day trekking, this is an invaluable resource

Having been closed off to tourists for many years, Bhutan is now a bucket-list destination for most outdoor enthusiasts. With most of the country covered with mountains and forest, we can definitely understand the attraction. There is plenty of hiking to be had in this Himalayan kingdom, from the famous Snowman Trek to lesser-known trails. This guidebook from Cicerone details 22 multi-day routes for you to consider, both short and long, easy and difficult. In between the covers, you'll find route descriptions, advice on preparations, when to go and how to get there, plus information on the people and the culture of the country. Essentially, if you'd like to visit Bhutan for some multi-day trekking, this is an invaluable resource.

Adventure Travel magazine

'Bart Jordans has organized tours in Bhutan since 1984, knows the terrain and the people well, and has covered most of the ground described in the treks. Tourism and trekking in Bhutan has developed in recent years, but environmental and cultural concerns have rightly led Bhutan to control its growth carefully.

The guide itself is packaged durably in a flexi-back cover and will fit into a rucksack or pocket easily. After introductory material, Jordans takes a trek-by-trek approach, and within each trek a day-by-day approach. Constantly alternatives are provided because weather can change and trails can be flooded or destroyed by rock-falls. Options for detours and additional extras are provided.

Travel in Bhutan has to be done with a Bhutanese guide, but having a guide like this one will be invaluable if you seriously think of going there.'

(Library Review - Feb 2008)

In the three years since the first edition, there have admittedly been improvements in the infrastructure in Bhutan, a remoter Buddhist kingdom at the eastern end of the Himalayan chain, and the numbers of tour operators, hotels and restaurants have all increased, as have the numbers of tourists visiting each year, up from 9,249 in 2004 to 17,344 in 2006, only a small proportion of whom actually do any trekking.
Some of the treks described in the first edition have been left out because they have either not been opened to trekkers or they have been replaced by new routes which are included in the new edition. The popular routes, such as the Druk Path and the trek to Jhomolhari Base Camp, remain unchanged.
The book retains its user-friendly Cicerone format and its strong point is still the abundance of information that it contains about the culture and the environment in this enchanting country.

(Irish Mountain Log, Summer 2008)

Cicerone has issued a second edition of its delightful guide. Pocket-sized and clearly presented, it summarises the available treks in Bhutan and provides day-by-day commentaries. Some treks in the first edition have been left out because either they have not been opened or they have been changed substantially. In four cases they have been replaced by new treks. Descriptions have been updated for changes, such as in the extent of feeder roads.
This is a trekker’s book with entertaining pieces on conditions, kit and health. It will certainly assist those considering a trip to Bhutan. The reader gets an excellent feel of what’s on offer – 27 routes are described, ranging from 2 to 24 days in length – and of the demands and uncertainties of different routes. Bart Jordans has done well to explore the routes over many years but particularly while resident, with his family, in Bhutan for four years from 1999.

(The Bhutan Society Newsletter, Summer 2008)