Trekking in Greenland - The Arctic Circle Trail

From Kangerlussuaq to Sisimiut

By Paddy Dillon

ISBN

9781852849672

Availability

Published

22 Feb 2019

Reprinted

17 Jan 2023

Edition

Second

Pages

136

Size

17.20 x 11.60 x .90cm

Weight

160g

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A comprehensive guidebook for hiking the Arctic Circle Trail, which crosses the largest ice-free area of West Greenland, 25-30 miles north of the Arctic Circle. At just over 100 miles long, and taking 7 to 10 days to complete, this splendid backpacking route runs from Kangerlussuaq to Sisimiut - both with airport access.

Seasons

a summer walk, ideally from mid-June to mid-September, when the tundra is bursting with life; during the long winter, snow and ice, short days and bitter cold are the norm

Centres

start at Kangerlussuaq and finish at Sisimiut - vast empty landscapes inbetween

Difficulty

not particularly difficult, mostly gently graded, but with a few short, steep, rocky slopes but very remote; trekkers must be completely self-sufficient but basic huts are available at good intervals

Must See

trips to the ice cap; visiting an arctic desert; climbing Sugar Loaf; Kangerlussuaq; Tarajornitsut saline lakes; paddling the lake of Amitsorsuaq; beach at Kangerluatsiarsuaq; views from Iluliumanersuup Portornga; the valley below Nerumaq; the valley of Qerrortusup Majoriaa; Nasaasaaq; Sisimiut

ISBN

9781852849672

Availability

Published

22 Feb 2019

Reprinted

17 Jan 2023

Edition

Second

Pages

136

Size

17.20 x 11.60 x .90cm

Weight

160g

Overview

At just over 100 miles long, and taking 7 to 10 days to complete, the Arctic Circle Trail crosses the largest ice-free patch of West Greenland. This splendid trekking route, lying 25-30 miles north of the Arctic Circle runs from Kangerlussuaq to Sisimiut (both of which have airport access). The trail traverses remote, empty, silent and stunningly scenic arctic tundra, and is mostly gently graded with just a few short, steep and rocky slopes. However, the landscape between the two towns of Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut is extremely remote and those who choose to take on this route must be competely self-sufficient. The book includes plenty of practical information on what to take with you and when to go, as well as on safety, travel and accommodation. Fully illustrated with a variety of photographs and its route is highlighted on continuous trekking maps. The guide also includes an optional extension to the Greenlandic ice cap.

Table of Contents

CONTENTS

Map key

Overview map

INTRODUCTION

Geology

The ice cap

Wildlife

Plants and flowers

History

Culture

Travelling to Greenland

When to go

Accommodation

Toilets

Health and safety

Food, drink and fuel

Language

Money

Communications

Trekking in Greenland

River crossings

What to take

Waymarking and access

Maps

Emergencies

All change on the trail

Using this guide

The Arctic Circle Trail

Kangerlussuaq

Preamble – ascent of Sugar Loaf

Optional Extension – ice cap to Kangerlussuaq

Day 1 Kangerlussuaq to Hundesø

Day 2 Hundesø to Katiffik

Day 3 Katiffik to Canoe Centre

Day 4 Canoe Centre to Ikkattooq

Day 5 Ikkattooq to Eqalugaarniarfik

Day 6 Eqalugaarniarfik to Innajuattoq

Day 7 Innajuattoq to Nerumaq

Day 8 Nerumaq to Kangerluarsuk Tulleq

Day 9 Kangerluarsuk Tulleq to Sisimiut

Sisimiut

Post-amble – Ascent of Nasaasaaq

Appendix A Route summary table

Appendix B Language notes and glossary

Appendix C Useful contacts

Maps

Maps

Three ‘Hiking Maps’ at a scale of 1:100,000 cover the Arctic Circle Trail, published by Greenland Tourism, with cartography by the Scottish company Harvey Map Services. The contour interval is 25m (82ft), which is enough to hide several significant ups and downs. The maps are waterproof, and the reverse is printed with additional useful information. Despite the limitations of scale the maps are excellent, and extracts are used throughout this guide; the route has been highlighted and extra route information added to correspond with the trail description in this guide.

Note the huge magnetic declination in this region before attempting to navigate with a map and compass. Read and understand the notes printed on the maps. Note the provision of blue grid lines indicating the direction of the magnetic north pole. Take sample bearings as early as possible to ensure you understand the system and are confident with its operation – before you find yourself in mist!

Purchase the required map sheets, ‘Kangerlussuaq’, ‘Pingu’ and ‘Sisimiut’, in advance of travel, although they are on sale in Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut. The maps are available from Harvey Map Services, 12–22 Main Street, Doune, FK16 6BJ, tel 01786 841202, www.harveymaps.co.uk; Stanfords, 7 Mercer Walk, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9FA, tel 020 7836 1321, www.stanfords.co.uk; The Map Shop, 15 High Street, Upton upon Severn, Worcestershire, WR8 0HJ, tel 01684 593146, www.themapshop.co.uk; and Cordee www.cordee.co.uk.

The ‘Hiking Maps’ are also available in digital form for use on an electronic device. First download the ‘Avenza Maps’ app, then go to the ‘Store’ and find Greenland on the map. The three maps between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut can be downloaded for a payment, roughly half the price of the printed maps. Using the app, it is possible to enlarge the mapping considerably on the screen, for easier viewing. GPX tracks for each stage of the trail can be downloaded from the Cicerone website.

Several ‘Saga Maps’ are available, with a selection of them covering the whole of Greenland at various scales, www.sagamaps.com. A series of 18 maps at a scale of 1:250,000 cover almost the whole western side of the country between the ice cap and the sea. Four more cover small parts of East Greenland. Sheet number 8, ‘Sisimiut Kangerlussuaq’, covers the area traversed by the Arctic Circle Trail. While it is a useful map in terms of offering an overview of the landscape on a single sheet, the map is not recommended for trekking, and the course of the Arctic Circle Trail is not shown.

Arctic Sun Maps produce a ‘Kangerlussuaq–Sisimiut’ sheet at a scale of 1:250,000, showing the Arctic Circle Trail. There is also a ‘Kangerlussuaq’ map at a scale of 1:50,000. See www.arcticsunmaps.weebly.com or look out for them once in Greenland.

While Google Street View claims to cover the Arctic Circle Trail, this isn’t strictly true. The route displayed is the one used by snowmobiles travelling in winter between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut. Snowmobiles rarely follow the trodden path, and naturally they scoot across frozen lakes instead of following rugged shoreline paths. By all means check Street View, but it doesn’t look anything like the Arctic Circle Trail in summer.

Updates

November 2021

Road construction

Pages 44 & 45

These pages mention the possibility of a dirt road being constructed across the tundra to link Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut. This project was completed late in the summer of 2021 and there are changes to the Arctic Circle Trail that trekkers need to be aware of. First of all, the 'road' has been designed for ATV (quad bike) use, so it is narrow and has a very rough surface. It is unlikely to be busy, but of course it is visually intrusive. It remains to be seen whether the small huts that were once in remote locations suddenly become busier once they can be reached by vehicles.

Leaving Kangerlussuaq on Day 1, the ACT used to run onto the tundra from a road-end beyond Kelly Ville. This road has now been extended to distant Sisimiut, so it is important to leave it in order to stay on the ACT and head for Hundesø. The new road stays well clear of the ACT until Day 6, when it suddenly reappears. The new road either runs close to the ACT, or is actually built on top of it, throughout Day 6, 7, 8 & 9. While some trekkers might welcome the provision of the new road in order to make rapid progress, others will want to avoid it as much as possible.

In order to avoid as much as possible of the road, a new southern trail has been established in order to avoid the trail, and this will be walked, checked and described in a future edition of the guidebook. It is already marked with cairns, with some parts already featuring a trodden path, and huts are due to be established. In short, the new trail leaves Eqalugaarniarfik in the direction of Sarfannguit, where there is a small settlement on an island separated from the mainland by a narrow channel. The idea is to attract the attention of a boatman in order to visit the village, otherwise continue high across a slope, well above the sea, descending to pass an inlet at Utoqqaat. The trail climbs and descends again to reach Kangerluarsuk Tulleq, at the end of Day 8. There is no way to avoid the road on Day 9 to finish at Sisimiut.

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Paddy Dillon

Paddy Dillon is a prolific walker and guidebook writer, with over 100 guidebooks to his name and contributions to 40 other titles. He has written for several outdoor magazines and other publications and has appeared on radio and television.Paddy uses a tablet computer to write as he walks. His descriptions are therefore precise, having been written at the very point at which the reader uses them.Paddy is an indefatigable long-distance walker who has walked all of Britain's National Trails and several European trails. He has also walked in Nepal, Tibet, Korea and the Rocky Mountains of Canada and the US. Paddy is a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild and President of the Backpackers Club.

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