Walking in the Hebrides
Walking in the Hebrides
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4. Colonsay and Oronsay
Walk 1. Scalasaig - Milbuie - the Strand - Oronsay Priory and Farm and the return (10.5 miles/17kms)
Walk 2. Scalasaig - Carn Mor - Lower Kilchattan - Kiloran - Kiloran Bay - Carnan Eoin -
Colonsay House - Loch Fada - Scalasaig (9.8 miles/15.5kms)
Map: OS Landranger 1:50,000 Sheet 61 ‘Jura and Colonsay’
Ten miles (16kms) west of Jura are the much smaller islands of Colonsay and Oronsay - the former 8 miles (12.8kms) long from north to south and the latter about 2 miles (3.25kms) long from north to south. At its widest point Colonsay measures little more than 3 miles (4.8kms). To all intents and purposes little Oronsay is part of Colonsay for they are joined at low water for about three hours by a large area of flat sand called Am Faodhail, the Strand.Tradition states that Colonsay is named after St. Columba while Oronsay is variously stated to mean ‘halftide isle’ and St. Oron’s isle’.
Walk 1.
Scalasaig is the main centre of Colonsay where there is a post office, shop and hotel. From the pier walk westwards and pass the hotel to the right and parish church to the left. High up behind the church notice the red granite monument erected by the people of Colonsay to the memory of Lord Colonsay (1793-1874) (map reference: 391937). The road ahead is straight and narrow as it proceeds through the fertile little valley to the sandy, western coast and in a little more than half a mile turn left towards the southern end of the island.
The road slowly climbs by the cottages at Milbuie and over a low pass of 119ft (36m) above sea level (map reference: 378924) where one can gain a good view of the southern parts of inland Colonsay, showing that there is a large proportion of rock on the surface, pale grey rock and patched between with the greens of grasses, sedges and rushes in the wetter places; and heather and bracken in drier situations. Go down now into the little valley with the steep slopes of a 273ft (83m) high eminence close by on the right hand. Soon you will see the overgrown ruins of a chapel under these slopes on the right side, probably a place of worship for pilgrims en route to the shrine of Oronsay. In half a mile (.75km) the road ends at the shore overlooking the Strand which stretches across to Oronsay (map reference: 372912).
You have about an hour and a half each side of low water when it is possible to cross easily without resorting to wading so that if one arrives at this point as the tide is receding there is the most part of three hours to explore Oronsay. The map shows the route across the sand for vehicles but for the walker I suggest that one goes directly across, passing close by a rocky islet rising from the shore on the right, still on the Colonsay side (map reference: 368904). Then straight on to the complex group of raised rocks close to Oronsay where a liberal covering of seaweed makes the going over the stones more pleasant if one is barefooted.
The first time I ever crossed the Strand was with a friend on a silent, still day of thick mist when it wasn’t possible to see the Oronsay shore from Colonsay so we made out over the damp, worm-cast-dotted sands in what we thought to be the right direction. Very soon we lost sight of rocks and shore so that we walked on, attempting to keep the distant sight of the Atlantic on our right hand. After what seemed a very long time the rocky islets heralding the Oronsay side appeared ahead and we were soon standing on dry land. It must have been past the turn of the low tide for when we came back to re-cross the sands there was water between us and those same rocks. Wading out we got into ever deeper water and the alarming thing was that it was swift-moving, flooding in over the seaweed and sand. By retracing our steps to the shore and setting out again further to the east we managed to get across by wading through fast-flooding water only ankle-deep, even half-way over to Colonsay.
The moral would seem to be to get across the Strand as soon as possible after the ebbing tide allows, thereby giving one plenty of time in which to explore Oronsay and get back again safely and in a relatively dry state. The only place where sand or rocks are not exposed at low water is where the two islands come closest together near the eastern end of the Strand, a place called appropriately Poll Gorm - the Blue Pool (map reference: 374897).
Once across on Oronsay one can either ascend westwards to the top of the highest hill, 304ft (92m) high Beinn Oronsay, and then drop southwards to the Priory, or follow the lane westwards for just over a mile (1.6kms) to the Priory and Oronsay Farm (map reference: 350889).
Traditionally St. Columba is supposed to have landed at Oronsay in AD 563 after setting sail from his native Ireland bent on missionary work. From the top of Beinn Oronsay, however, he found that his beloved Ireland was still visible (actually the mountains of Donegal can be seen) and this sight he did not wish to be able to see so he set sail again, to the north, finally landing at Iona later the same year. From this latter island the Irish coast is not normally visible and here we know he started his great mission. The King of the Picts had given Columba permission to settle on Iona and his greatest achievement was the conversion of this same northern tribe.
Oronsay Priory of St. Columba was probably erected in the 14th century, though it would seem that a religious settlement was founded here as early as the 6th century. The Prior’s House stands on the northern side of the other ruins and today it houses many finely carved gravestones, placed in here to protect them when this building was re-roofed in the 1920s. The largest cross, to the memory of Prior Colin, is a finely proportioned pillar of native stone erected in 1510 and rising to 12ft (3.6m). Another smaller cross tops a steep, grassy mound near the eastern end of the main building and is composed of parts of two crosses, the shaft from one and the head from another, joined with iron and presenting a surprisingly united whole.
Just inside the new main porch can be seen the grave of Major-General Sir John Carstairs McNeill (1831-1904), last of the southern Clan McNeill to own the Colonsay and Oronsay estate. He was for twenty-seven years equerry to Queen Victoria and was the son of the Lord Colonsay who is commemorated by the large, red granite monument overlooking Scalasaig.
The whole of Oronsay is farmed by the farmer living at Oronsay Farm, adjoining the Priory ruins. If time allows a walk down to the sweeping, sand-girt bay south of the farm will be well worthwhile before the return to the Strand. Once back on the Colonsay shore we can proceed directly back along the road to Scalasaig or turn to the south-east and climb the rocky hill overlooking the Strand called Beinn Eibhne (map reference: 379903). From here we can walk down to the north, to Balaruminmore and the ancient graveyard there and thence uphill to Balarumindubh and so, climbing over a 300ft (91m) high knoll of rock and grass, descend to the road near to Milbuie cottages.
If we keep to the road between Scalasaig and Oronsay Priory and do likewise on the return the walk is approximately 10.5 miles (17kms).
Walk 2
A walk from Scalasaig through parts of central and northern Colonsay starts near the Scalasaig hotel (map reference: 389942) where a path slants westwards over the 380ft (115m) top of Carn na Cainnle, close by which one can investigate the green knoll of Dun Eibhinn where the chiefs of Clan MacDuffie are traditionally supposed to have lived. This ancient fortification is almost worn down but the grass mound can be seen to the right of the path a little way below the top of the hill.
This high ridge runs roughly from east to west at an elevation over 250ft (76m) and culminates in the grand precipitous face of Beinn nan Caorach overlooking the old golf course near Machrins. Here one can see, from the coast road, the strata’s dip to the south and the series of grassy ledges between the layers where sheep often graze.
From the top of the hill by Dun Eibhinn we follow the path by a boggy depression and then ascend close by the summit of 438ft (133m) high Carn Mor. From the top there is a lovely view which includes a good sweep of the rocky, pebble-strewn west coast, the long line of Loch Fada occupying its sheltered hollow at the centre of the island and licking at the edge of the woodland in the environs of Colonsay House. Twenty miles (32kms) away to the north-west on clear days Iona’s highest point is readily visible, as is the lighthouse of Dubh Artach 15 miles (24kms) away to the north of westward and in very clear conditions the more distant lighthouse of Skerryvore can be picked out 38 miles (60kms) to the north-west.
We descend now to the village of Lower Kilchattan which is, together with Upper Kilchattan, the most densely populated area of Colonsay after Scalasaig. Close by the right-hand side of the lane as we proceed are two standing stones - one over 8ft (2.5m) the other over 10ft (3m) tall. These are relics of dim pre-history and, like the great standing stone of Camas an Staca on Jura, were probably old when the Egyptians were burying their noble dead and erecting the Pyramids. Who knows?
Reaching the main road turn right through Upper Kilchattan and pass the church and school at Sgreadan (map reference: 377958). Loch Fada, Colonsay’s largest loch, lies not far away to the right but we walk on for another mile (1.6kms) to Kiloran. Where the road forks take the left branch and in a few yards the main gates to Colonsay House will be seen ahead. Turn left here and immediately the road bends to run parallel with the drive to the house. Just here we can, if we so desire, take to the lane leading off at right-angles through the trees. Shortly this becomes a footpath which takes one up and over by the charming shore of Loch an Sgoltaire and then by a rocky route down to the houses at Uragaig (map reference: 393980).
Alternatively continue down the lane for a mile (1.6kms), noticing the finely sheltered front of Colonsay House across parkland to the east. This is the seat of Lord Strathcona though he does not live here permanently. In 1701 Colonsay and Oronsay were sold by the tenth Earl of Argyll (who later became the first Duke of Argyll) to Malcolm McNeill of Knapdale for a sum a little over £1,100. This McNeill was a member of the southern Clan McNeill and built the older parts of the present house in 1722, probably using some of the stone from the ancient priory which stood on the site of the house. In 1904 Lord Strathcona purchased the islands for £44,000 and had the house enlarged.
Where the road turns at right angles to the left the golden sweep of Traigh Ban edging Kiloran Bay comes into sight. In a short distance we can descend to the lovely sands where a blue sea curls in white and green and seabirds call from the rocks. Often the many cattle of the main Colonsay Farm rest in dark groups near the sandhills backing the beach. But to see the finest cliff scenery of the island we should continue along the lane instead of dropping to the beach. Soon we pass the point where the footpath over the hill from Kiloran, already referred to, joins this lane. Beyond the scattered crofts of Uragaig make to the west and from the environs of ancient Dun Uragaig (map reference: 382983) look down into rocky Port nam Fliuchan and across to the tall cliffs beyond.
After wandering and exploring by Kiloran Bay make for the rocky slopes of the highest hill, Carnan Eoin, crossing the winding lane leading northwards to Balnahard at 100ft (31m) above sea level. The top of Carnan Eoin is 470ft (143m) high and gives wide views to the north and west especially, and eastwards across to Jura’s lonely shores 10 miles (16kms) away.
Making for the south continue along the high backbone of rocky ridge towards Ruiteachan Eorna where a good view can be had of the fertile valley of Kiloran. Drop now to the road junction near the sandhills (map reference: 400974) and make back along the road for a third of a mile (.5km). Look for a path leading to the left, towards Colonsay House, alongside a fence and follow this towards the trees and high hedges near the mansion. Between June and August one will notice the conspicuous red spires of purple loostrife growing profusely in many wet habitats in the southern Hebrides, especially on Colonsay and Islay. There is a large area of wetland on the left-hand side of this path as we walk now, usually ablaze with this plant’s blooms.
Past the old tennis courts we join a drive and go ahead, skirting the intimate grounds of the house until we meet the lane which winds round through the trees and was once the only route from Kiloran direct to Scalasaig. The dense woodland cover is truly amazing when one considers the proximity of a wild, Atlantic shore and bare, rocky hills. It has been stated that these two islands are the “epitome of the West Highland world in its full range and consequences of Atlantic exposure and sheltered mildness”. Rose of Sharon, azaleas and rhododendrons bloom magnificently beneath a canopy of bamboo and Scots pines, sycamores and other fine tree species. The gardens close to the house are open to the public during the summer months when the Strathconas are not in residence.
We follow the old road round and soon draw level with the eastern end of Loch Fada (map reference: 397961) and in half a mile (.75km) join the ‘new’ road where it makes two hairpin bends. Continue down the short straight between the two bends and straight along the old track with a small loch to the left. We are following the route of the original road to Scalasaig which climbs steeply over Beinn nan Gudairean to over 300ft (91m) above sea level and so down to Scalasaig.
The new road going round the hill on the east coast was built soon after Lord Strathcona bought Colonsay in 1904, so avoiding the high pass. During construction work many broken bottles were found (some with the word ‘Colonsa’ stamped within a circular seal) near the point where the track to the now-deserted village of Riasg Buidhe leaves the ‘new’ road. It is thought that these are remnants from the days of traffic in illicit whisky.
Climbing the steep and stony track over the pass it is interesting to recall that King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra were driven this way during their visit to Colonsay House. From the top of the pass it is only a few minutes’ walk down to the road near Scalasaig Hotel.
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