Scrambles in Snowdonia
Scrambles in Snowdonia
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Area Covered by the Guide
All the described routes lie within the northern half of the Snowdonia National Park, where the most rugged mountains are found. Good scrambling in the southern half is scarce, the rock here being typically loose or vegetated.
Northern Snowdonia naturally divides into four regions. From north to south these are: the Carneddau, the Glyders, the Snowdon group and Eifionydd. The best scrambles will be found in the Glyders, with the large majority concentrated on Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr. The Snowdon group also boasts many excellent routes, whereas the Carneddau and the Eifionydd regions provide only a handful.
Each region is introduced by a general description of the terrain and an indication of the scrambling potential, followed by some advice on valley bases, public transport and so on.
Maps
The entire area conveniently appears on the 1:50,000 OS Landranger Sheet 115 Snowdon and Surrounding Area. This map will suffice, though for greater detail consider buying Snowdonia - Conwy Valley Area and Snowdonia - Snowdon Area in the OS 1:25,000 Outdoor Leisure series.
Sketch maps accompanying this text merely assist in locating the regions and routes on the OS map, and are not substitutes for it.
Selection of Routes
The choice of routes is, by necessity and design, a selective one. All the best scrambles are included, though for the sake of a broader coverage some mediocre ones in the Glyders and Snowdon group have been omitted in favour of even poorer ones in the Carneddau and Eifionydd.
The range of difficulty extends from scrambly walks to the boundaries of proper rock climbing. Average fitness and a head for heights will suffice at one end of the scale, whereas nothing short of mountaineer’s skill and daring will do at the other. Some routes fit neither category: scrambling over loose rock and up dripping, vegetated gullies seems to require a special cunning, for which neither hill walking nor rock climbing provides adequate preparation. The proficient all-round scrambler is a unique beast, and probably lucky to be alive.
Route Descriptions
After a general introduction the description is divided into seven sections:
Summary: A concise description of the route for quick reference, useful when flicking through the guide looking for ideas.
Conditions: Use this information to find a route suitable for the prevailing weather conditions. An indication of popularity, rock quality and so on may also appear under this heading.
Approach: Suggests a suitable parking place with map reference and briefly describes the approach walk.
Ascent: Describes the route in ascent, generally or in detail according to the intricacy of the terrain. Remember that the described line is often only one of several ways of ascending the face. Use it as a guide, but be prepared to find easier or harder variations as the situation demands.
Descent by this route: Gives some special pointers when planning to use the route as a descent, or advises when a descent is impractical or unduly difficult.
Usual descents: Briefly describes walking or simple scrambling descents from the summit.
Combinations: Suggests interesting combinations of routes for those seeking a longer mountaineering day.
Route Classification
The routes have been classified 1,2 or 3, according to difficulty and level of risk. Borderline cases are indicated by a grade of 1/2 or
2/3. It is impossible to apply any grading system rigorously, and at best it can serve only as a rough guide.
Grade 1: This grade denotes routes which require no special mountaineering skills (eg. Snowdon Horseshoe, Tryfan North Ridge), and which should be within the capability of any adventurous and experienced hill walker. They are unlikely to require rope protection, and may be considered for descent or during doubtful weather.
Grade 2: Things are getting much more serious now. Routes include the difficult gullies and ridges, and the easier face routes (eg. Bryant’s Gully, Clogwyn y Person Arête, Braich Ty Du Face). You may have to wait for optimum weather conditions, and even then difficulties which require rope protection may be encountered. A wide experience of scrambling, or a background in mountaineering, is essential. Such routes are rarely suitable for descent. Note also that a grade 2 climbed unroped may be potentially far more dangerous than a grade 3 climbed with rope protection.
Grade 3: These routes have the attributes of grade 2 scrambles but with the additional complication of one or more ‘pitches’ of simple rock climbing, on which rope protection is usual. Dry conditions are essential. Someone whose background is limited to hill walking and scrambling will need to acquire a knowledge of basic rope technique before attempting these routes, in particular an ability to select belay anchors, fix running belays, and, in the event of a forced retreat, to abseil.
Star Ratings
Routes have been allocated a quality rating from zero to three stars. Obviously this is a subjective assessment, though few will argue over the merits or otherwise of routes at either end of the scale:
*** Acknowledged classics, often crowded during weekends.
** Routes of quality, sometimes unfrequented.
* Routes of merit but which lack continuous interest.
No star Poor routes described for completeness or because they are the best available in that particular region.
Route Illustrations
Route numbers in the text correspond to those indicated on the maps and photo-diagrams. It should be possible to locate and follow all scrambles using only an OS map and the route description. However, the photo-diagrams may help resolve an ambiguity. In some cases the starting point and line of a route is best indicated in plan form. In these cases an additional sketch map appears in the text.
Equipment
Clothing: Your normal hill walking clothing will generally be suitable for scrambling, but ensure that it gives adequate free movement for high leg and arm reaches. Knee-length waterproof jackets are a nuisance.
Fingerless wool gloves, useful for scrambling up cold or wet rock, will also afford some protection from rope burns while belaying and abseiling.
Footwear: Lightweight walking boots, particularly those with a firm rather than floppy midsole, are ideal for scrambling. Plastic mountaineering boots and other rigid-soled footwear are unnecessarily clumsy. Trainers and other ultra-light footwear may be adequate for the simple ridge scrambles but are useless in gullies and on the mixed ground of face routes.
Rucksack: Choose a neat daysack, ideally fitted with a stabilising waist strap but with as few other fittings as possible.
Rope: The rope most commonly used for mountaineering routes is of kernmantel construction, 45m long and 11mm in diameter. Such a rope can also be used for scrambling, though in most cases it will be unduly heavy and cumbersome to carry. At the other end of the scale, some people like to carry 15m of 9mm diameter rope for emergency purposes on the simple scrambles. Such a rope is light and convenient but far too short for the serious scrambles. The best compromise might be 36m of 9mm diameter climbing rope. This should be used double in ascent, allowing pitches of about 15m to be climbed between ledges with the option of making recoverable 15m abseils in an emergency. However, such a rope would be inadequate if used singly on longer pitches.
The rope must have a ‘dynamic’ quality (ie. it must be capable of stretching to help absorb the energy of a fall), so it is no use buying caving or yachting rope, which has a low-stretch ‘static’ quality. Go to a proper climbing shop and explain your needs. The rope should carry the UIAA label of approval. Note that rope sold off-the-reel in 8mm diameters or less for making into runners and slings is low-stretch ‘static’ rope and should not be used as a main rope for scrambling.
Other protection equipment: Three or four tape slings and karabiner clips will suffice for most routes. The slings may as well be of the full-strength 25mm width, preferably pre-stitched rather than knotted. Two of these should be of 2.4m length (these can then double as abseil sit-slings), the others may be of 1.2m. At least two of the karabiners ought to be of the locking type. All should conform to the current UIAA standard. If you intend using the Italian friction hitch method of belaying, then you will also need two HMS (pear-shaped) locking karabiners among the party.
All the scrambles described in this book can be minimally protected with this basic equipment. However, on some of the more technical routes you may wish to supplement the tape slings with three or four medium-sized nuts.
Helmets: The slight irritation experienced when wearing a climbing helmet must be weighed against the partial but valuable protection it offers against falling stones or glancing blows sustained during a fall. Wearing or not wearing a helmet is entirely a matter of personal choice. They are least useful when scrambling along ridges, and most useful in the confines of a scree-littered gully.
Basic Rope Technique
Instruction in rope technique is beyond the scope of this guide. Rock climbers and mountaineers will be able to adapt their normal belay methods to suit scrambling terrain. Hill walkers will need instruction from experienced companions. Failing that they may wish to enrol on a course at an outdoor centre (advertised in the specialist magazines) or to consult one of several textbooks. The Hillwalker’s Handbook (Ashton, Crowood Press) includes a section devoted to rope-protected scrambles.
Access
Approaches have been carefully described to avoid crossing land where access is restricted or in dispute. Improvising unrecognised approaches across lower pastures merely antagonises farmers. Besides, there is plenty of scope for wandering at will on the higher ground.
Metric Units
Metric units for heights and distances have been used throughout, conforming to current OS metric maps. To convert to imperial measurements, think of metres as rather long yards, or, more accurately, multiply the height in metres by ten then divide by three for a close approximation in feet (eg. 60m=600/3=200ft). To convert from kilometres to miles, multiply by five then divide by eight (eg. 16km=80/8=10 miles).
A Final Cautionary Note
A guidebook of this sort reflects the author’s own reactions and responses to the routes. Not everyone will agree on the exact lines to follow, the levels of difficulty encountered, or the best techniques to apply. I have climbed all the routes personally, specifically with the guide in mind, and at least once in every case without rope protection. Nevertheless, when faced by an unexpected route-finding problem you must be prepared to trust your own intuition.
The same goes for loose rock encountered on the routes. Coping with unstable blocks, shattered rock and treacherous vegetation is all part of the game. Even the easiest scrambles can never be made completely safe, and some are potentially more dangerous than most rock climbs.
All the described scrambles are ‘summer’ routes. Even the simplest of them would be a totally different proposition in winter conditions, when ice-axe, crampons and winter-climbing skills are required. Remember that even when snow is absent the rocks may be coated in verglas, the thin veneer of ice rendering an ascent extremely difficult and dangerous.
Above all, scrambling demands good judgement of terrain and an ability to assess the potential risk at every stage. These skills are learned gradually, beginning with the grade 1 ridge scrambles. In this book I can suggest only where the routes go and give advice on how to overcome some of the obstacles you will meet. I can’t decide for you whether or not it is safe to continue. Ultimately the choices and the adventures are yours.
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