Scrambles in Snowdonia

The guidebook contains over 60 scrambling routes in Snowdonia, Wales. The range of difficulty extends from scrambly walks to the boundaries of proper rock climbing. All the best scrambles are included, with broad coverage throughout the area. Covers the Glyders, the majority concentrated on Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr, the Snowdon group, Carneddau and the Eifionydd regions.

33: Dolmen Ridge *** (3)

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The curving line of Central Gully defines the right-hand side of the huge face taken by Shark Buttress. On the left side of the gully, at about half height, stands the compact, triangular crag of Dolmen Buttress. This excellent scramble crosses Central Gully to ascend the upper right edge of Dolmen Buttress, then uses the left-bounding ridge of the gully to gain the Glyder Fach plateau just a few metres from the summit rock pile.

Summary: Awkward problems on the short steps of an introductory buttress followed by a steep pitch on a compact buttress. Less difficult scrambling along a curving ridge leads to the summit.

Conditions: The rock is generally rough and sound. Takes little drainage but wait for warm, dry conditions. Catches the late afternoon sun in summer.

Approach: As for Route 27 to Llyn Bochlwyd. From the far side of the lake, ascend towards the back of the cwm (ie. heading for Bwlch y Ddwy Glyder, the col between Castell y Gwynt and the Gribin Ridge) to a tiny pool - marked only on 1:25,000 maps - below the large, central buttress of the north-west face. Central Gully is now obvious: a wide, shallow rift running almost the full height of the cliffs. One hour fifteen minutes.

Ascent: Ascend the large buttress right of Central Gully by an intricate, right-to-left slanting line to a scree-covered shoulder level with the foot of Dolmen Buttress. Traverse across the gully just below a narrowing and ascend an easy ramp to gain the crest of Dolmen Buttress at about half height (alternative means of approaching this point include the gully itself - unpleasant - and the rocks to its left).

From the end of the ramp, ascend a short groove and its left edge (spike) to an easy but exposed step left round the arête. Scramble diagonally left to gain the main ridge crest.

The ridge now eases but continues to give interesting scrambling in exposed positions overlooking Central Gully. Eventually it curves to the right, dips to a small col, and then merges into the main bulk of the mountain. The summit lies directly ahead.

Descent by this route: Not recommended.

Usual descents: As for Route 27.