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The Camino del Norte and Camino Primitivo
To Santiago de Compostela and Finisterre from Irun or Oviedo
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Guidebook to walking the Camino del Norte and Camino Primitivo pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain. The 820km Camino del Norte from Irún via Bilbao and Santander takes around 5 weeks to complete. The 355km Camino Primitivo takes about 2 weeks. Includes the Camino Finisterre from Santiago to the coast.
Seasons
Summer/late spring/early autumn are best, because of the weather and because much of the accommodation closes in winter
Centres
Irún, San Sebastián, Bilbao, Santander, Gijón, Oviedo, Lugo, Santiago de Compostela
Difficulty
While certain stages of the Caminos may be quite physically demanding, the Caminos are largely approachable to any walker, since it is often possible to split difficult stages into shorter sections. Luggage transport services are available for walkers who need support.
Must See
The rocky coastline of the Basque Country, sandy beaches, the mountains of Astoria, rolling hills of Galicia; some of Spain's most dynamic cities, including San Sebastián, Bilbao, Santander, Oviedo, Lugo, Santiago; variety of architecture from Lugo's Roman walls, Romanesque and Gothic churches, to Bilbao's Guggenheim Museum
This guidebook describes the Camino del Norte and Camino Primitivo pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain. The 820km Camino del Norte follows the coast from Irún, on the French border, through Bilbao and takes about 5 weeks to complete. The 355km Camino Primitivo splits off from the Camino del Norte near Villaviciosa and passes through Oviedo and Lugo en route to Compostela. It takes roughly 2 weeks to walk. This book also includes an overview of a continuation route from Santiago to Finisterre on the coast. Physically demanding, but not difficult, the caminos are best walked from late spring to autumn.
The guidebook is broken into stages of between 15 and 35km, most of which end in a town or village with a pilgrim albergue. There is indispensable information on facilities, food and lodging, 1:100,000 scale maps of the route and town maps for key locations. With notes on preparation and planning, travel and equipment, a list of useful sources of information, and a glossary, the book provides all you need to know to walk the camino.
Santiago de Compostela, whose cathedral houses the relics of St James, was one of three major centres of Catholic pilgrimage in the Middle Ages. In modern times the Caminos de Santiago have seen a resurgence in popularity, drawing walkers for all sorts of reasons. Passing through the Spanish regions of the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia, the northern caminos are popular enough to offer sufficient facilities, clear routes, and a community of pilgrims, without suffering the overcrowding of the Camino Frances.
Table of Contents
Contents Introduction The story of Saint James The Northern Caminos: yesterday and today Along the routes: different cultures Choosing your camino When to go Preparation and planning Being a pilgrim Getting there and back Equipment Accommodation Food Postal services Telephones and internet Other local facilities Waymarking, route-planning, and maps Using this guide The Camino del Norte Prologue: The Voie Littorale Bayonne to Irún/Hondarribia Stage 1 Irún to San Sebastián Stage 2 San Sebastián to Zarautz Stage 3 Zarautz to Deba Stage 4 Deba to Markina-Xemein Stage 5 Markina-Xemein to Gernika-Lumo Stage 6 Gernika-Lumo to Bilbao Stage 7 Bilbao to Pobeña Stage 8 Pobeña to Castro-Urdiales Stage 9 Castro-Urdiales to Laredo Stage 10 Laredo to Güemes Stage 11 Güemes to Santander Stage 12 Santander to Santillana del Mar Stage 13 Santillana del Mar to Comillas Stage 14 Comillas to Colombres Detour: The Camino Lebaniego Muñorrodero to Santo Toribio de Liébana Stage 15 Colombres to Llanes Stage 16 Llanes to Piñeres de Pría Stage 17 Piñeres de Pría to La Isla Stage 18 La Isla to Villaviciosa Detour: The Camino Covadonga Amandi (Villaviciosa) to Covadonga Stage 19 Villaviciosa to Gijón Stage 20 Gijón to Avilés Stage 21 Avilés to Muros de Nalón Stage 22 Muros de Nalón to Cadavedo Stage 23 Cadavedo to Luarca Stage 24 Luarca to La Caridad Stage 25 La Caridad to Ribadeo Stage 26 Ribadeo to Lourenzá Stage 27 Lourenzá to Gontán/Abadín Stage 28 Gontán/Abadín to Vilalba Stage 29 Vilalba to Miraz Stage 30 Miraz to Sobrado dos Monxes Stage 31 Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzúa Stage 32 Arzúa to Santiago de Compostela The Camino Primitivo Stage 1 Villaviciosa to Pola de Siero Stage 2 Pola de Siero to Oviedo Stage 3 Oviedo to Grado Stage 4 Grado to Salas Stage 5 Salas to Campiello Stage 6 Campiello to Berducedo Stage 7 Berducedo to Grandas de Salime Stage 8 Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada Stage 9 A Fonsagrada to Castroverde Stage 10 Castroverde to Lugo Stage 11 Lugo to As Seixas Stage 12 As Seixas to Arzúa Primitivo–Norte Link via Oviedo Oviedo to Avilés Primitivo–Norte Link via Friol Lugo to Sobrado dos Monxes The Camino Finisterre Stage 1 Santiago de Compostela to Negreira Stage 2 Negreira to Olveiroa Stage 3 Olveiroa to Finisterre
Appendix A Useful sources of information Appendix B English–Spanish–Euskera glossary Appendix C Suggestions for further reading
Irún’s Albergue Goikoerrota is permanently closed. Irún’s Albergue Martindozenea youth hostel remains closed in 2019
Fortunately, a new albergue option has opened on the outskirts of Irún, just after the river crossing where the Norte turns left off of the highway. Antiguo-Convento-Residencia de los Padres Capuchinos (15€, 26 beds, all in doubles/triples/quads, breakfast included, kitchen, 607 450 818, 943 641 870, Barrio de Amute 14)
San Sebastián’s Hospital de Peregrinos Claret Ikastola is permanently closed. This means there is no devoted albergue de peregrinos in San Sebastián, unfortunately.
Clear waymarks now provide an alternative approach to the village of Leko, instead of continuing directly to Pasajes de San Juan. It then follows the river into Pasajes
The ferry in Pasajes now costs 80 cents
Stage 2: San Sebastián to Zarautz
The albergue in Gran Camping Zarautz is currently closed for repair
Galerna Zarautz Hostel is currently closed, but it has been replaced by a new hostel: Blai Blai Hostel (info here).
Stage 3: Zarautz to Deba
There is a very small route change prior to Elorriaga, as the Camino now splits from the GR at the playground/park after Zumaia, reconnecting in Elorriaga
It is possible to descend to the coast at Basque Coast Geopark, walking (carefully) along the rock strata around the coastline. This is not easy walking, and it might be impractical at high tide, and it requires an ascent using a rope up a rock face (not a rock climb, per se, but might make some uncomfortable). It spares you a significant ascent, though, and is spectacular walking. Read more here
Stage 4: Deba to Markina-Xemein
Those interested in a quicker descent to Markina (and with good knees) can spare themselves 1-1.5km by avoiding the waymarked descent and instead taking the next right, following the old Camino approach to Markina
After Deba, there is currently a detour on the Camino that makes the approach to Ermita del Calvario more strenuous. Fortunately, it is possible to cross the bridge in Deba once again
The fountain at Collado de Arno is now marked as being unsafe to drink. For what it’s worth, our group drank it and suffered no negative consequences. Make the right choice for you
Stage 5: Markina to Gernika
New albergue in Olabe, 5.5km after Munitibar: Albergue Andiketxe (12€, 20 beds, meals available, kitchen, W/D, 946 253 150). There is also a bar available there, open early in the morning
Albergue Ziortza-Bolibar has closed yet again. This is the Rasputin of the Norte–it seems dead, then reappears time after time. Hopefully it’ll have another life ahead of it, but don’t ever bank on it without direct confirmation from the place
The albergue in Zenarruza has a microwave and refrigerator, but no stove. Breakfast is no longer offered, though a plate of food at dinner is
Stage 6: Gernika to Bilbao
There’s a new albergue in Gerekiz, just after the Meakaur turn-off: Albergue Gerekiz(15€, 30 beds, private rooms available, open Semana Santa – October, kitchen, W/D, 619 409 247, 627 459 673)
Goikolexea has a bar now, but no pharmacy
Lezama’s Albergue de Peregrinos is back to the donativo model
The walk between Larrabetzu and Bilbao isn’t great. Here’s an alternative approach (no waymarks, unofficial) that gets you off-road!
Stage 7: Bilbao to Pobeña
Portugalete’s Albergue de Peregrinos has relocated to the nearby polideportivo (just a block from the old location), now has 30 beds, and is open June-September
The East Nervión approach to Portugalete now has improved waymarking, especially after passing Akelarre hostel. At certain points, it now turns inland from the river, to get off of the highway (when the shoulder narrows considerably)
Stage 9: Castro-Urdiales to Laredo
Islares’s Albergue de Peregrinos remains closed. Don’t expect it to re-open any time soon
The much-discussed and controversial coastal approach from after El Pontarrón de Guriezo to Laredo is a stunning walk, though too strenuous and risky for some. Read more about it here
Stage 10: Laredo to Guemes
The old Albergue de Meruelo is under new management and open once more: Albergue RiCa 12€, 18 beds, open mid-May to late-October, meals available, 675 873 019)
In Comillas, Albergue de Peregrinos La Peña has closed. A new albergue, however, has opened: Albergue La Huella del Camino (15-20€, 20 beds, kitchen, @, c/San Jerónimo 30, 942 172 571)
Stage 14: Comillas to Colombres
Get off the highway and enjoy some beach-walking with this approach after Oyambre
Stage 15: Colombres to Llanes
Albergue Renacer in La Franca has closed
Stage 16: Llanes to Piñeres de Pria
A reader recommends Hotel Gavitu in Celorio, particularly outside of peak season when options decline considerably
We have received negative feedback from an experienced pilgrim on their stay at Albergue Las Palmeras in Celorio, noting a lack of heating in the building (at a very cold time of year), cold food in the restaurant, and a largely non-responsive host. Please update us on your experience if you stay there
Stage 17: Piñeres de Pría to La Isla
In Playa de Poo, Albergue La Cambarina has closed, but a new hostel has opened: Llanes International Hostel (info here)
A new albergue is available off-route. Join the road leading away from Playa Arenal de Morís and proceed 2km into the village of Caravia/Prado. Albergue La Pumarada (10-12€, 12 beds, private rooms available, open Semana Santa – September, meals available in bar, W/D, @, 620 851 635)
The municipal albergue in La Isla remains closed. Albergue El Furacu is under new management and has a new name: Marejada Hostel
Stage 18: La Isla to Villaviciosa
A reader suggests Hotel Las Vegas in Colunga (singles 28-35€, doubles 35-55€, 985 856 025) and notes that Hostal El Mesón is currently closed and “looks awful”
Keys for the Pre-Romanesque Church of San Salvador are available from the owner of the Albergue La Rectorial de Priesca
Stage 19: Villaviciosa to Gijón
New albergue near Peón. While it’s actually 4km off-route, free transport is included: Albergue Peón (15€ for B&B, 25€ for B&B & Dinner, 30 beds, private rooms available, kitchen, W/D, 625 771 105)
Casa Abierta La Xaldina Peregrina in Nievares has closed
Gijón’s Albergue Juveníl San Andrés de Cornellana is temporarily closed for repairs
Stage 22: Muros de Nalón to Cadavedo
In Muros, Albergue La Naranja Peregrina now charges 10€ for beds
New albergue in Novellana: Albergue Andén de Novellana (12€, 12 beds, doubles 45€, closed Jan-Feb, breakfast available, kitchen, @, 644 969 940).
Stage 23: Cadavedo to Luarca
New albergue in Querúas: Albergue La Yalga (16 beds, 20€, includes breakfast, doubles 45€, open all year–but reserve in winter, dinner available, @, W/D, 985 475 104).
Stage 24: Luarca to La Caridad
New albergue in La Ronda: Albergue Casa Lua (donativo, 10 beds, open all year–but reserve in winter, communal meals, @, W/D, 619 989 910)
New albergue in Otur: Albergue Casa del Peregrino (10€, 14 beds, open Semana Santa – October, includes breakfast, kitchen, W/D, 627 887 507)
Piñera’s Albergue de Peregrinos has re-opened, following an extensive remodeling of the old schoolhouse. Beds remain 5 euros, with communal dinner (8 euros) and breakfast (5 euros) now available, along with laundry services. 611 040 517
Stage 25: La Caridad to Ribadeo
Tol’s Albergue de Peregrinos has closed
The Albergue de Peregrinos in Tapia de Casariego now charges 8€ for beds
Ribadeo has a new albergue: Albergue Viruxe (12€, 20 beds, breakfast available, @, 608 986 702, Camiño Veiga de Aira 4)
Stage 26: Ribadeo to Lourenzá
Note: all Xunta-run albergues in Galicia now charge 8€ for beds
Vilela’s Albergue de Peregrinos is no longer open year-round. Instead, its opening season is less clear, as it operates now primarily as an over-flow space for Ribadeo’s small albergue, primarily in the summer. Before leaving Ribadeo, make sure to confirm that Vilela’s albergue is operational.
Always confirm that Gondán’s albergue is open (630 329 028)–it continues to operate sporadically
New albergue in Lourenzá: Albergue Tótem Home Sharing (info here)
Stage 27: Lourenzá to Gontán-Abadín
New albergue in O Vilar: Albergue de la Naturaleza O Vilar (15€, 54 beds, open May-October, Kitchen, W/D, @, 982 100 887)
Camino Primitivo Updates
Stage 3: Oviedo to Grado
New albergue in Paladín, before Grado: Villa Palatina Superior Hostel (15€, 30 beds, doubles 50€, meals available, W/D, @, 603 402 500)
Stage 4: Grado to Salas
New accommodation in Casazorrina, before Grado: Alojamiento La Figal de Xugabolos (20-25€, 21 beds, includes breakfast, doubles 60-70€, dinner available, W/D, @, 659 113 721)
New accommodation in Salas, on the road out of town: Albergue-Hotel Casa Sueño (13€, 14 beds, singles 40€, doubles 50€, triples 75€, meals available, kitchen, W/D, @, 673 914 308)
Stage 5: Salas to Campiello
New albergue in Porciles, before Bodenaya: Albergue Fontenonaya (donativo, 10 beds, communal meals, kitchen, @, 653 247 007)
New albergue in Borres: Albergue La Montera (12€, 10 beds, open April-Oct, W/D, @, 625 870 679)
The bar in Borres no longer opens at 6am
The municipal albergue in Berducedo is closed for repairs. The bar in Lago is also closed
Stage 7: Berducedo to Grandas de Salime
New albergue in Grandas de Salime: Albergue Porta de Grandas (12€, 26 beds, doubles 40€, open March – mid-Nov, kitchen, W/D, @, 608 782 603)
September 2019
Updates
Norte, Stage 22:
New albergue in Querúas: Albergue La Yalga (16 beds, 20€, includes breakfast, doubles 45€, dinner available, @, W/D, 985 475 104).
May 2019
The Camino del Norte
Stage 13: In Comillas, Albergue de Peregrinos La Peña has closed. A new albergue, however, has opened: Albergue La Huella del Camino (15-20€, 20 beds, kitchen, @, c/San Jerónimo 30, 942 172 571)
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Dave Whitson is a high school History teacher in Portland, Oregon and a graduate of the University of Washington. He made his first pilgrimage in 2002 on the Camino Francés and was inspired to return with a group of his high school students, which he did in 2004. He has made long-distance treks in Norway on the Pilgrim Road to Nidaros, in England on the North Downs Way to Canterbury, and in Turkey on the Lycian Way, all told walking roughly 10,000 kilometers on pilgrim roads in Europe.
Laura Perazzoli graduated from John Hopkins University with a degree in Writing Seminars and currently lives in Seattle, Washington. She completed her first pilgrimage in 2004 on the Camino Francés as one of the students on Dave Whitson's initial student pilgrimage. After this trip, she was excited to provide others with a similar experience and has since led student pilgrimage trips on the Camino Francés, the Camino del Norte and the Via Francigena. Laura first walked the Camino del Norte and Primitivo with a student group in 2009 and returned in 2011 to re-walk the route and to complete the Camino Inglés to ensure up-to-date route information for this guidebook.
