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Guidebook to cycling the River Rhine from source to sea, through Switzerland, Germany, France and the Netherlands. The 1368km route from the summit of Oberalppass to the Hook of Holland is split into 27 stages, mostly following well-surfaced cycle tracks. Includes information on facilities, useful contacts and a language glossary.
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Guidebook to cycling-touring the river Rhine from its source high in the Swiss Alps, through Germany and the Netherlands to the North Sea. This mostly downhill 850-mile (1368km) trail follows EuroVelo route 15, and is ideal for cyclists with limited experience of touring, as well as seasoned long-distance cyclists.
Map key
Overview map
Preface
Introduction
Background
The route
Natural environment
Preparation
Getting there and back
Navigation
Accommodation
Food and drink
Amenities and services
What to take
Safety and emergencies
About this guide
The route
Alpenrhein (Alpine Rhine)
Stage 1 Oberalppass to Ilanz
Stage 2 Ilanz to Chur
Stage 3 Chur to Buchs
Stage 4 Buchs to Bregenz
Hochrhein (High Rhine)
Stage 5 Bregenz to Konstanz
Stage 6 Konstanz to Schaffhausen
Stage 7 Schaffhausen to Waldshut
Stage 8 Waldshut to Basel
Oberrhein (Upper Rhine)
Stage 9 Basel to Neuf-Brisach
Stage 10 Neuf-Brisach to Strasbourg
Stage 11 Strasbourg to Drusenheim
Stage 12 Drusenheim to Karlsruhe
Stage 13 Karlsruhe to Speyer
Stage 14 Speyer to Worms
Stage 15 Worms to Mainz
Mittelrhein (Middle Rhine)
Stage 16 Mainz to Bacharach
Stage 17 Bacharach to Koblenz
Stage 18 Koblenz to Remagen
Stage 19 Remagen to Köln
Niederrhein (Lower Rhine)
Stage 20 Köln to Düsseldorf
Stage 21 Düsseldorf to Duisburg
Stage 22 Duisburg to Xanten
Stage 23 Xanten to Arnhem
Delta Rijn (Rhine Delta)
Stage 24 Arnhem to Wijk bij Duurstede
Stage 25 Wijk bij Duurstede to Schoonhoven
Stage 26 Schoonhoven to Rotterdam
Stage 27 Rotterdam to Hoek van Holland
Appendix A Route summary table
Appendix B Facilities summary table
Appendix C Tourist offices
Appendix D Youth hostels
Appendix E Useful contacts
Appendix F Language glossary
July 2023
The alternative route in stage 27, which connects the main cycle route with the P&O ferry sailing from Europoort to Hull, crosses the Maas by way of the Maassluis–Rozenburg ferry. This ceased running on 25 May 23 when all services were withdrawn. The company had been in financial difficulty for some time. Revenue was heavily affected by covid and the company could not afford to carry out essential maintenance on its two boats. They appealed to the local council for financial support, but this was not forthcoming. The car ferry service ceased earlier this year and was replaced with a pedestrian and cycle ferry. After months of financial wrangling between the ferry operator and the local council, this service too has ceased and the operator has gone into bankruptcy.
It is anticipated that a new operator will start sailing the route; however, no time scale has been put on this happening. When the new Blankenburg road tunnel under the Maas opens in 2024 this will draw off most of the vehicular traffic and it is likely that any new service will be for pedestrians and cyclists only.
In the meantime, if you are planning to return to Britain by P&O from Europoort you will need to make a substantial diversion. One way is to follow Stage 27 out of Rotterdam as far as Vijfsluizen station (knooppunt 09 on map page 276), then cross the river using a cycle tunnel beside the A4 motorway Beneluxtunnel. Continue south past Pernis to reach the A15 motorway and follow a cycle track more or less parallel with the motorway all the way to Europoort and the P&O ferry terminal at dock 5805.
This is not as straightforward as it sounds, motorway junctions, bridges, tunnels and construction work for the new Blankenburg tunnel all complicate the route, which has to make a long loop SW to pass round the main part of Rotterdam port. The old route is joined at a point south of Rozenburg. The new route from central Rotterdam to the P&O terminal via the Beneluxtunnel is 38km, compared with 33km by the old route via the Maassluis ferry
Another, albeit longer, alternative is to follow the main route all the way to Hoek van Holland, then cross the Maas by way of a cycle/pedestrian ferry that is part of Dutch national cycle route LF1. After crossing the river, this ferry sails right into Europoort to drop passengers off in Maasvlakte. From here a cycle track more or less following the Europaweg motorway circles the BP oil refinery to reach the P&O ferry terminal at dock 5805. From Hoek van Holland to the P&O terminal is 12km by ferry and 16km cycling.
GPX tracks have been provided for these two variants.
November 2022
After 3 years since they ‘temporarily’ ceased carrying cycles because of covid, Eurostar have begun carrying them again, but with a very limited service and with conditions of carriage that are not attractive to touring cyclists. Before covid, all trains to Paris and Brussels carried up to six cycles, two fully assembled and four dismantled, in specially designed fibreglass bike cases. Eurostar provided the cases and tools to dismantle/reassemble bikes in an area dedicated to this procedure.
The reinstated service carries bikes only on trains to Paris (not Brussels) on selected departures from London between 07.55 and 15.31 or from Paris between 11.13 and 18.13. Fully assembled bikes are not being carried. Four dismantled bikes can be carried, but cyclists must deliver their bikes already boxed to the baggage counter in either London or Paris. Pre-booking is compulsory and riders must now travel on the same train as their bikes. After completing the journey, boxes must be collected directly from the train and cycles reassembled on the platform.
This is far from ideal, and until Eurostar fully reinstate their previous cycle carriage policy, cyclists are recommended to take their bikes by plane, ferry or Euroshuttle when heading to the European mainland. The situation could potentially change.
The Cycling UK website www.cyclinguk.org has a page dedicated to Eurostar cycle carriage policy, which is updated regularly to contain any new information.
June 2022
The disastrous floods of July 21 have destroyed the wooden covered bridge over the Ahr just south of Kripp. Two alternative diversions have been signposted, one, (which adds 4.5km, staying E of the Rhine via Sinzig and the other crossing the river by ferry from Bad Breisig–Bad Hönningen and re-crossing from Linz–Kripp. This only adds 0.5km but involves two ferries. It is not known how long these diversions will last, nor when the bridge will be re-built. Look out for local signage (in German).
June 2022
Between Baerl and Binsheim, the published route has been blocked by a gate, requiring a short diversion to avoid private land. There is a rough gravel track along the top of the flood dyke, parallel with the closed section, or alternatively there is an asphalt surfaced alternative, described below;
After passing through Baerl and joining Dammstrasse, do not drop down L on red block track beside dyke. Rather turn R (Woltershofer Kirchstrasse) before gate across dyke then bear L at next road junction (Woltershofer Strasse). Follow this over flood dyke, rejoicing original route, and continue to reach Orsoyer Strasse in Binsheim. This diversion adds 600m to the published route.
March 2022
Widening of Fussach bridge over the Rhine between Höchst and Hard has blocked the cycle route where it formerly passed under the bridge. Work started in autumn 2021 and will continue through 2022. Towards the bottom of p71, 150m before cycle track drops down L off flood dyke to pass under Fussach bridge, turn L then R at T-junction and R again onto bridge, re-joining original route crossing river using cycle track L. As bridge work progresses, it is likely that construction of new approach roads and slip roads on both sides of the Rhine will lead to further route changes. Look out for local signage.
Fussach bridge is where the alternative routes around Lake Constance divide. To follow the southern route around the lake, do not cross the bridge; rather go straight ahead across bridge approach road into Dorfstrasse (sp Fussach) and follow this heading west through village.
February 2022
Stage 5 (p80) The railway crossing referred to in the third line has been replaced by a railway underbridge with consequent re-modelling of nearby roads. After passing disused railway goods depot R, bear L (Bregenzer Strasse) then go ahead L at roundabout (second exit) and cross bridge to reach another roundabout on Lindau island.
Stage 16 (p186) Construction of a new motorway bridge over the Rhine has caused a long-term cycle route diversion between Biebrich and Schierstein. In the first line, do not turn L into the park, rather turn R (Rheinparkstrasse) opposite canoe club. At end, turn L onto Rheingaustrasse, a busy main road with cycle track R. Pass under motorway bridge, then turn L at traffic lights (Hafenweg). Turn R at first crossroads (still Hafenweg) to re-join original route passing Schierstein marina L.
Stage 20 (p224) Another new motorway bridge over the river has caused a long-term diversion at Merkenich. Do not fork R beside house 220b, rather continue ahead under motorway bridge and turn R (Schlettstadter Strasse) beside house 248b. At end, turn L, re-joining original route through fields and out of Köln.
Stage 23 (p248) Construction of new flood dykes and sluices has altered the route at Griethausen. While this work is underway it is necessary to divert through the middle of Griethausen. Do not turn R onto asphalt track beside course of Alt Rhein. Rather continue ahead for 1km to reach roundabout and turn R (Postdeich, first exit). Follow this winding through Griethausen, then at end of village where road passes through gap in flood dyke, fork L up onto dyke to re-join original route.
When the work has been completed, a new cycle track will fork R from a point about 500m before the bridge over the Alt Rhein along a newly constructed flood dyke crossing the new Alt Rhein sluices and then bearing R to join the original route along the old flood dyke passing Griethausen below L.
Stage 27 (p279) Between Koggehaven and Maassluis, construction work for the new Maasdelta road tunnel has caused long term diversion of the cycle route. The diversion route is described in the guide and shown on the maps. When the work has been completed, it is expected that the original cycle route alongside the river Maas will be re-instated.
Stage 27 (p282) Relocation of Hoek van Holland station and re-modelling of the roads serving both the station and ferry port are causing short-term diversions. Follow the signs.
After a career in marketing, culminating as marketing director of a leading supermarket group, Mike Wells started to write walking and cycling guides in his fifties. He has been a keen cyclist for over 25 years. After completing various UK Sustrans routes, such as Lôn Las Cymru in Wales and the C2C route across northern England, he then moved on to cycling long-distance routes in continental Europe and beyond. These include cycling both the Camino and Ruta de la Plata to Santiago de la Compostela, a traverse of Cuba from end to end, a circumnavigation of Iceland and a trip across Lapland to the North Cape. Even further afield he has ridden the Congo-Nile trail from the Congo basin to the source of the Nile in Rwanda's Nyungwe national park. On all these trips he was accompanied by his partner Christine, who sadly died in 2020.He has written 10 cycling guides for Cicerone, including a series following the great rivers of Europe. For a full list of Cicerone books and articles by Mike Wells, visit his author page.
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