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Guidebook to the Southern Upland Way, a coast to coast walk through Galloway and the Scottish Borders. One of Scotland's Great Trails, the 347km (215 mile) route links Portpatrick on the west coast to Cockburnspath on the east, through diverse landscapes and rich natural and historical interest. It can be completed in around a fortnight.
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A guidebook to Scotland’s coast-to-coast walk, The Southern Upland Way. At 347 kms (215 miles), this is the longest of Scotland’s Great Trails, linking Portpatrick in the west to Cockburnspath in the east.
The route is presented in 14 stages of between 15 and 30 kms (9-19 miles) with an additional rest day suggested to explore Moffat. Crossing the high moorland of the Galloway Hills, Carsphairn range, Lowther and Ettrick Hills, the walk is a strenuous one, calling for competence, fitness, and self-reliance.
Map key
Overview map
Route summary table
Introduction
The Southern Upland Way
West to east or east to west?
When to go
Ways of tackling the SUW
Luggage transfer and drop-off/pick-up services
Accommodation
Getting to and from the SUW
Planning and preparation
Equipment
Maps
Waymarking and navigation
Access in Scotland
Ticks
Completion certificates and SUW badges
A high-level alternative coast-to-coast route
Using this guide
The route
Stage 1 Portpatrick to Castle Kennedy
Stage 2 Castle Kennedy to New Luce
Stage 3 New Luce to Bargrennan
Stage 4 Bargrennan to the Glenkens
Stage 5 Across the Glenkens
Stage 6 The Glenkens to Sanquhar
Stage 7 Sanquhar to Dalveen Pass
Stage 8 Dalveen Pass to Beattock (Moffat)
Rest day – Moffat and environs
Stage 9 Beattock (Moffat) to Ettrick
Stage 10 Ettrick to Traquair (Innerleithen)
Stage 11 Traquair (Innerleithen) to Melrose
Stage 12 Melrose to Lauder
Stage 13 Lauder across the Lammermuir Hills to Longformacus
Stage 14 Longformacus to Cockburnspath
Appendix A Itinerary planner
Appendix B Bothies along the SUW
Appendix C Bibliography
Appendix D Useful contacts
June 2025
Section 9 preamble: add at end
NOTE: both the higher alternative before Ettrick Head, and the combined route above Selcoth Burn, cross steep and rather exposed slopes, intimidating to some and risky in icy conditions.
P127 first line: wooden steps now gone. Just keep ahead uphill on the rough path.
P132: additional distance to Innerleithen, amend to 2.5km (1.5 miles)
P145 top: This is unclear. The alternatives are
a) From the crossroads in Traquair, take thelane heading uphill, south-eastwards. Keep ahead up a dirt track, so beginning the long ascent onto Minch Moor.
b) If starting from Innerleithen, there’s a more attractive return route. Return over the Tweed to the 7Stanes car aprk. From its corner, the well built path runs to left of the road, across a side road, then steeply uphill. It runs along the foot of plantations, with wide views across the Tweed valley. After 1.2km it crosses an uphill track, to a second one, which is the SUW 0.75km above Traquair.
P155 top: the riverside path diverts briefly away from an eroded section of riverbank, then returns.
P159 2nd main para: As the slope eases, 'continue straight ahead (north-east) at a track fork' is more of a 'at a track fork, bear left (north-east)'.
P160 2/3 way down: 'The SUW dodges into woods on the right' – At summer 2025 there are fallen trees to work your way around here.
P160 last sentence: Lauder lies in the deep valley ahead; the Way drops a little towards Lauder Burn, but after a ladder stile, it turns up right to reach, rather surprisingly, the 13th tee of Lauder Golf Course. (But there’s an alternative path dropping to Lauder Burn, which is also usable.)
P165 foot: ‘the right-hand edge of the conifer plantation seen ahead”. This has now (summer 2025) been felled, and progress along its right-hand edge is currently awkward in the aftermath…
P168 line 4: 'Wide, smooth track' is now tarmac surfaced.
P173: last word ‘red’. Now repainted black.
P174 first para: having reached the start of the concrete track to Whiteburn, follow it as far as the farm before turning off left as indicated.
P185 could have pronunciation guide:
Stranraer StranRARR
Knowe Now
St John’s Town of Dalry Dalry
Stroanpatrick Strone-patrick
Sanquhar Sanker
Daer Reservoir Darr Reservoir
Over Phawhope Over Fawup
Scabcleuch (and other cleuchs) ClooCH (ch as in ‘loch’
Dryhope Dryup
Traquair Tra-KWARE
Innerleithen Inner-leethun
Lauder Lorder
Longformacus Long-for-MACK-us
Abbey St Bathans Abbey Saint BA-thuns )(not Baythuns or Barthuns)
Cockburnspath Co’path
July 2022
General: The accomodation on the SU Way is like the people using it – it comes and goes. The SU Way website at its new address dgtrails.org/southern-upland-way/ is the start point for current information. Do please report any fresh information, updates or corrections via the feedback form there.
Accommodation providers providing vehicle backup: Brookford B&B at Dalry no longer offers pickups across the Glenkens (Pick-up points 1 and 2). A current accommodation provider in the Glenkens may offer car pick-up on an informal basis: it's always worth asking.
June 2022
March 2021
At the highest point of the SU Way, the Lunch Box on Lowther Hill (p103) is now a comfortable small shelter, timber lined, with a bench inside.
December 2020
Winter 2020/21, the Barnhill Bridge over River Annan NT 092 029 is closed for repairs. Signs divert walkers into Moffat by Annandale Way and out again by Oakrigg, ie the alternative routes marked on pages 112 and 124. Works should be completed by spring 2021.
February 2020
Most walkers will need to continue from Traquair to Innerleithen to find accommodation. There is now a pleasant footpath from the war memorial at Traquair running to left of the road through fields and woods to the Tweed bridge near the edge of Innerleithen, replacing what was a nasty road walk (and an even better one for the return to the SU Way in the morning).
see MAP below Stage 11 update.
February 2020
An excellent roadside footpath has (in 2019) been made from the House o' Hill at Bargrennan to Glentrool village. This would allow you to take advantage of any facilities at Glentrool, although there are currently none. Continuation would be by a roadside footpath east to Stroan Bridge, and downstream to left of Water of Minnoch to rejoin the SU Way by a footbridge over Water of Trool. However the riverside path of the SU Way is a better route.
February 2020
If you stay overnight in Innerleithen, there's a very attractive link path (built 2020) to take you back to the SUW. Return over the Tweed to the car park for the 7Stanes mountain bike area. From its corner, the well built path runs to left of the road, across a side road, then steeply uphill. It runs along the foot of plantations, with wide views across the Tweed valley. After 1.2km it crosses an uphill track, to a second one, which is the SUW 750 metres above Traquair.
see Map below:
January 2019
Appendix D, accommodation providers offering luggage transfer:
New for 2019, a string of B&Bs / hotels offer piecemeal baggage transfer covering the entire route (provided you stay at their places) – see the official website at www.southernuplandway.gov.uk.
Some updates to the accommodation listing column in Appendix A: but please refer to www.southernuplandway.gov.uk for the most current information.
184km Brattleburn bothy (near): Bunkhouse (Rivox)
220km Scabcleuch: B&B (Cossarshill) – see previous update!
247km Traquair: no accomm (but Innerleithen does have)
251km Minch Moor: B&B at Yarrowford
322.5km B6355 Lodge Wood: B&B (Greenhope)
Page 122 The unofficial high-level line above Ettrick glen, Stage 9 'Alternatives', is covered in full on the Harvey Maps route map of the Southern Upland Way.
Accommodation update: the 2018 revisions to the official website at www.southernuplandway.gov.uk have uncovered lonely B&Bs at New Luce (end Stage 2), at the foot of Ettrick glen (end Stage 10) and Longformacus (end Stage 11). The second of these in partricular will make it possible for energetic walkers to complete the Way without needing vehicle pick-ups and drop-offs. Please check the official website for details.
Alan Castle has trekked and cycled in over 30 countries within Europe, Asia, North and South America, Africa and Australasia. A member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, he has written 18 guidebooks, several on long-distance mountain routes in France. An erstwhile national secretary and long-distance path information officer of the Long Distance Walkers Association, Alan now lives at the foot of the Moffat Hills in Scotland.
View author profileRonald Turnbull writes regularly for TGO, Lakeland Walker, Trail and Cumbria magazines. His previous books include Across Scotland on Foot, Long Days in Lakeland and Welsh 3000ft Challenges. He has written many other Cicerone guides, including Walking in the Lowther Hills, The Book of the Bivvy and Not the West Highland Way. Ronald's weekly newsletter on mountains, hillwalking and history is at https://aboutmountains.substack.com/
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