Walking in Cyprus: a complete planning guide

What is Walking in Cyprus?

Walking in Cyprus is a collection of 33 graded day walks across southern Cyprus, exploring three very different landscapes: the rugged, mythologically charged Akamas Peninsula in the west; the pine-forested Troodos mountain range and central plateau; and the quieter trails of the south and east coasts. The walks range from gentle, flat nature trails of 3km to demanding mountain circuits of up to 20km, with routes graded 1 to 3 to suit walkers of all abilities and fitness levels.

The island's landscape is more varied than most Mediterranean destinations of comparable size. Within a single day's driving you can move from sea-level coastal paths with turquoise water and wild orchids underfoot to cool pine forest at over 1500 metres, with UNESCO-listed Byzantine churches tucked into the hillsides along the way. For walkers used to European mountain destinations, the absence of crowds on most trails is a genuine surprise: Cyprus has been a major tourist destination for decades, yet the walking trails have only recently begun to attract wider attention.

What sets this guide apart from a generic tourist description is its focus on the full range of southern Cyprus's scenery, including several trails in the central Machairas and Kionia areas that rarely appear in travel writing. The E4 European Long Distance Path, extended to Cyprus in 2005, passes through several of the walks covered here, linking Paphos and Larnaca airports via some of the island's most scenic terrain. This planning guide answers the most common questions walkers have before setting out. For complete route descriptions and 1:40,000 mapping, see the Cicerone Walking in Cyprus guidebook.
 

The hardest walk in the guide is the Kannavia circular (Walk 20, 19km, 830m ascent, 5hr 30min – 6hr), which demands a full day and good fitness. Several Troodos walks in the Grade 3 category involve navigationally complex terrain even where paths are waymarked, so experience of mountain walking is recommended for these routes.

When is the best time to walk in Cyprus?

Spring (March to May) is the outstanding season for walking across the whole island. Wildflowers carpet the meadows from late February onwards, with over 30 orchid species at their best in March and April. Temperatures are warm but not prohibitive, and the Troodos paths are clear of snow. This is the best time to tackle the full range of walks in the guide.

Autumn (September to November) is the second ideal window. After the summer heat the land may be parched, but temperatures ease significantly from September and walking becomes pleasant island-wide again. The Cyprus cyclamen, the island's national flower, blooms in early autumn in moist forest areas.

Summer (May to September) brings heat that makes most coastal and low-level walks uncomfortable or potentially dangerous during the middle of the day. The Troodos mountains, which are traditionally cooler than the coast, remain walkable throughout summer, and some of the higher-altitude trails (particularly the Artemis Trail, Walk 15, and the Atalante Trail, Walk 14) can be enjoyed in the morning hours.

Winter (November to February) brings most of the island's rainfall, and snow can cover the Troodos peaks. However, the Akamas Peninsula and coastal walks in the south remain accessible, and winter walking on the coast, with its clear air and quiet paths, has its own appeal. Cyprus has Europe's most southerly ski resort on the Troodos in some winters.

What accommodation is available for walking in Cyprus?

Cyprus does not have a network of walking huts or refuges, so accommodation planning requires a different approach to, say, the Alps or the British long-distance trails. The island is well served by hotels and self-catering apartments in coastal towns including Paphos, Limassol, Larnaca and Polis, all of which make practical bases for exploring different walking areas. The Troodos has a range of options in Platres, Troodos Square and Kakopetria.

Because most walks in this guide are day walks starting and finishing at a car park or roadside, the most flexible approach is to base yourself in one or two locations and drive to walk starts. A hire car is strongly recommended for this reason; many walk starts are in remote areas with no public transport. Using a coastal town as a base and making day trips into the mountains is an entirely practical strategy given the island's compact size. A list of Cyprus Tourism Organisation licensed campsites is available at www.visitcyprus.com. For full accommodation listings, see Appendix A of the guidebook.

Getting to and around Cyprus for walking

Flights: There are direct flights to Paphos and Larnaca airports from many UK and European cities, with Easyjet, Ryanair, British Airways, Jet2 and others all operating services. Paphos airport is more convenient for the Akamas Peninsula and Troodos; Larnaca for the south and east.

Getting around: A hire car is by far the most practical option and is readily available at both airports at competitive rates. Cyprus drives on the left. Main roads are well maintained, though mountain roads can be single-lane with occasional rock fall risk. Many walk starts are in locations that buses do not reach, or are only served by one or two daily services, making independent car hire effectively essential for serious walking.

Buses: Intercity buses connect the major towns (see www.intercity-buses.com), and local services operate from Paphos, Limassol, Nicosia and Polis to some villages. Timetables require careful checking. For the Troodos mountains, taxis can be found in Platres and Troodos Square; it is worth arranging a taxi before setting out on a linear walk.

Border crossings: Several crossing points along the UN-controlled Green Line allow visitors to travel between southern Cyprus and Northern Cyprus. EU passport holders do not require a visa. Some car hire companies permit vehicles hired in the south to cross into the north, but additional insurance must be purchased.

What are the highlights of walking in Cyprus?

• Avakas Gorge (Walk 4): One of the most dramatic gorges in the eastern Mediterranean, with towering limestone walls closing to near-darkness at its narrowest. The full route is 9km, Grade 3; a shorter gorge-only version of 6km is available.
• Aphrodite and Adonis Trails (Walks 1 and 2): The most celebrated walks on the island, both starting from the Bath of Aphrodite on the Akamas Peninsula. Each covers 7.5km with outstanding coastal and scrubland scenery.
• Asinou Trail and Panagia tou Araka (Walks 21 and 22): These Troodos routes pass UNESCO World Heritage-listed Byzantine churches whose entire interiors are covered in frescos dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries.
• Madari Trail and Kionia Peak (Walks 19 and 25): The highest walking in the guide, with far-reaching ridge views across the centre of the island.
• Petra tou Romiou Nature Trail (Walk 5): A coastal route near the legendary birthplace of Aphrodite, with the famous sea stack as a backdrop for much of the walk.
• Caledonia circular (Walk 16): A popular Troodos walk taking in the Caledonia waterfall, one of the few permanent waterfalls on the island.