Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe

Guidebook to the best winter climbing routes around Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, with nearly 1000 buttresses, ridges and gullies described, all illustrated with photo topos. The best routes and access points and a wide choice of options for all grades and types of climb. Scottish winter climbing on Ben Nevis, the peaks of Glen Coe and other mountains.

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Overview

Guidebook to the best graded winter climbing routes around Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, with nearly 1000 buttresses, ridges and gullies described, all illustrated with photo topos.

This guide covers all that is best on Ben Nevis, as well as Carn Dearg, Aonachs Mor and Beag, and Bidean nam Bian and its related summits, Buchaille Etive Mor, Beinn Udlaidh and outlying peaks in Glen Coe as are the crags on Stob Coire an Laoigh and Mullach nan Coirean. With colour photography throughout and information on interpreting avalanche forecasts, as well as a section on judging which crags will be in good condition, will make this guide essential for all winter climbers.

Table of Contents

List of diagrams

Preface

Introduction

Climbing conditions
Weather and avalanches
Access rights
Equipment and safety
Using this guide
Rescue facilities
Amenities

BEN NEVIS

CENTRAL AREA

Approaches for Ben Nevis
Descents from Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis – general topography

Climbs from Coire Leis
Little Brenva Face

Climbs from Observatory Gully
The Minus Face
The Orion Face
Observatory Ridge
Observatory Buttress
Indicator Wall
Gardyloo Buttress
Tower Ridge – East Side
Douglas Boulder

Climbs from Coire na Ciste
Tower Ridge – West Side
The Upper Cascades
The Comb
Number Three Gully Buttress
Creag Coire na Ciste
The Trident Buttresses
Carn Dearg Buttress
Carn Dearg Summit Gullies

Climbs from Castle Coire
The Castle
North Face of Castle Ridge

‘A big ride’ by Dave Macleod

OUTLYING AREAS

Stob Ban
Mullach nan Coirean

Glen Nevis
Five Finger Gully Area

Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag
Aonach Mor East Face – Coire an Lochain
Aonach Mor West Face
Sgurr Finnisg-aig – Allt na h-Aire cascade
Aonach Beag North Face
Aonach Beag West Face

Stob Coire an Laoigh

‘A long way down’ by Mike Pescod

GLEN COE

CENTRAL AREA

Climbs from Coire nam Beith
An-t-Sron
Stob Coire nam Beith
West Top of Bidean nam Bian

Bidean nam Bian
Diamond Buttress
Collie’s Pinnacle
Church Door Buttress

Aonach Dubh
West Face of Aonach Dubh
North Face of Aonach Dubh
East Face of Aonach Dubh

Stob Coire nan Lochan
West and North Faces of Gearr Aonach

Climbs from Coire Gabhail
East Face of Gearr Aonach
Lost Valley Minor Buttress
Lost Valley Buttress
Beinn Fhada and Stob Coire Sgreamhach
Lost Valley Ice Slabs
North Face of Beinn Fhada

Buachaille Etive Mor – Stob Dearg
Stob Dearg from Glen Etive – South East Face
Stob Dearg – North East Face – Lagangarbh approach
Coire na Tulaich
Stob Coire Altruim

The Aonach Eagach
Aonach Eagach – South Flank

‘Haunt of the raven’ by Hamish MacInnes

OUTLYING AREAS

Beinn Fhionnlaidh

Beinn a’Bheithir
Sgorr Dhonuill

Sgor na h-Ulaidh

A’Chaillach South East Face

Sron na Lairig

Glen Etive
Glen Ceitlein Slabs
Beinn Trilleachan – Etive Slabs
Ben Starav – Stob Choire Dheirg

Stob a’Ghlais Choire

Beinn Udlaidh

Appendix A: Accommodation for climbers
Appendix B: Index of routes

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Reviews

'This is the sixth edition of this select guide to Winter Climbs in the Lochaber region, and it’s the first to be authored by Mike Pescod. Pescod is stepping into some weighty shoes with the previous authors being Ian Clough, Hamish MacInnes, Ed Grindley and Alan Kimber. Thankfully Pescod is up to the task and this could be the best edition yet.

Pescod knows these hills intimately, having worked as a local guide, and spending much of his life enabling others to enjoy the wealth of climbing in this area. His knowledge is evident throughout this book, with over 40 pages of notes, diagrams and maps covering safety, access and planning a trip before the first climb is even described.

In summary, this is a well thought out and very useful guide covering enough climbs for most visitors lifetimes. For the majority of winter climbers in search of classics this book is good value but the inclusion of the latest testpieces should also have the young tigers shelling out their Christmas book tokens.'

Climb magazine, February 2011

'Following on eight years since Alan Kimber’s last guide, this seventh edition by guide Mike Pescod is a truly masterful piece of work.

Not only do we have included all the new routes, but also fantastic photo topos of each route crag and buttress.

The guide is also packed with advice on route choice and conditions, avalanche rescue and safety information. For the first time the newly developed crags of Stob Coire nan Laoigh and Mullach nan Coirean are also included. Lastly, this excellent new edition has bucked the trend of guide books getting so big and fat you don’t want to pop them in the top of your sack any more.'

Mountain Rescue magazine, January 2011

'This guidebook takes a huge selection (over 900) of the best climbs and, in a marriage of many generations of local knowledge combined with modern computer technology, produces… an excellent, well laid-out and very easy to use guidebook which I would highly recommend to anyone intending to visit Lochaber for winter shenanigans. The wealth of routes described will allow the reader a lifetime of winter visits to Lochaber and to experience the very best of Scottish winter climbing.

An outstanding guide to the area.'

Irish Mountain Log, Summer 2011

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