Shorter Walks in the Dolomites

Guidebook to 40 walks in Italy's beautiful Dolomites – from around 3 miles to full-day excursions – in both the high mountains and valleys. The region boasts vast expanses of forest, high-altitude rockscapes and seas of wild flowers. Its extensive network of paths links the numerous mountain huts of the region.

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3 – Fanes-Sennes-Braies Park: M. Specie

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Walking time: 2hr 45min
Walk distance: 10km/6 miles
Difficulty: Grade 1–2
Ascent/descent: 320m/320m
Maps: Tabacco n.03 or 010 scale 1:25,000
Start point: Rif. Pratopiazza

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The pointed Picco di Vallandro rises above Pratopiazza to the north, while opposite is the majestic deep-red Croda Rossa, ‘our blood-stained “Mount of sacrifice”’ for Gilbert and Churchill (1864). However, an ancient and politically questionable tale attributes the colour to the rock blushing in sympathy with an orphan brought up by marmots in the caves on the mountain: after the inevitable marriage to a handsome prince, the girl was deliberately embarrassed by a jealous noblewoman who revealed her humble background.

Pratopiazza is one of those rare perfect alpine basins dotted with pines and inhabited by photogenic dairy cows and timber chalets, but with the extra appeal of being bounded by a number of spectacular Dolomites. Set at 2000m above sea level and soaked in sunshine, Pratopiazza lies in the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park and doubles as a beautiful cross-country ski arena in winter; it also acts as the start point of this walk. However the actual goal is 2307m Strudelköpf (also known as Monte Specie or Heimkehrerkreuz), a self-effacing promontory overlooking the middle section of Valle di Landro between Cortina and Dobbiaco, an easy ‘summit’ for everyone, though strangely not that well known. The views are astonishing, prevalently onto the Sesto Dolomites; in clear weather conditions, try and be there in the late afternoon to catch the best colours.

Both meals and refreshments are served at the two rifugi en route as well as an old-style classy hotel at Pratopiazza, though any picnic fare will need to be purchased beforehand, back down in Val Pusteria.

A recommended follow-up is the considerably more strenuous path directly behind Rif. Pratopiazza leading up 2839m Picco di Vallandro, a more famous panoramic point. The final stretch entails some exposure and requires a sure foot, otherwise the 2hr30min climb is trouble-free, if a little monotonous.

Stage One: to Rif. Vallandro (30min)
From Rif. Pratopiazza (1991m) a wide 4WD track marked as n.37 cuts southeast across the pastoral basin dotted with red-barked Arolla pines. Remember to close the livestock gates behind you. Backed by the Cristallo group, ruins of a prominent Austrian fort stand out ahead, reminders of the activity in the area during the 1915–18 conflict. Close by stands friendly Rif. Vallandro (2040m).

Stage Two: ascent of M. Specie (1hr)
On the uphill side of Rif. Vallandro you need n.34, an old military road with a rough white stone surface. (Fit, impatient walkers can embark on the steep short cuts, signed ‘Heimkehrerkreuz’). You wind easily in ascent amongst dwarf mountain pines, eventually narrowing to a path heading southeast. After heading over a ridge, there’s a brief drop towards the ruins of a barracks at a 2200m saddle (40min), where you are joined by a variant from Val di Landro. The final 20min to the top – recognisable due east with its cross – sees you cutting obliquely a regular slope. It is not until the very last moment that the rounded top of M. Specie (2307m) reveals its breathtaking magic: straight across the valley to the east is the wild Rondoi-Baranci group, then the Tre Cime, slender and sharp like knife-blades from here, and enhanced by the special evening shadows. Slightly further afield are the Cadini to the southeast and the Marmarole beyond, as well as the Cristallo due south and the Tofane to the southwest.

Stage Three: descent via Rif. Vallandro (45min) and Rif. Pratopiazza (30min)
Return the same way you came.