Lake District Winter Climbs

Snow, ice and mixed climbs in the English Lake District

By Brian Davison

Essential guidebook to the best winter climbing routes in the Lake District. All the known routes in every part of the Lakes are described. From classic high-mountain gullies and buttresses on crags such as Scafell, Pillar and Great Gable to frozen watercourses and icefalls including Great Gully on the Wasdale screes.

Seasons

Seasons

October to April, but climbs unlikely to be in condition before January.
Centres

Centres

Langdale, Coniston, Eskdale, Wasdale, Ennerdale, Buttermere, Borrowdale, Thirlmere, Patterdale, northern and eastern fells
Difficulty

Difficulty

Winter climbing skills required.
Must See

Must See

Helvellyn coves, Great End, Scafell, Newland's Hause, Low Water Beck, Cautley Spout
ISBN
9781852847166
Availability
Published
Published
13 Nov 2012
Edition
Second
Pages
464
Size
17.2 x 11.6 x 2.9cm
Weight
540g
  • Overview

    The creative forces of the Fell & Rock Climbing Club and Cicerone have come together to provide the definitive guide to winter climbing in the English Lake District in a handy-pocket-sized format. Every known winter climb, from all over the National Park and beyond is explored, including over 200 new routes for this edition recorded only in the past few years. All manner of winter climbing is covered; from Snow and Ice to Mixed Climbing, Water Ice and Dry Tooling. There are routes for those who are new to the adventure of winter climbing, as well as challenging ascents for experienced climbers.

    The Lake District is known all over the world as an area of outstanding beauty and tranquility. Winter climbing opens the door to a new world of snow, ice and rock. No less stunning than in the warmer months, climbing in the cold offers a challenging slant to a well-loved landscape. Ridges become gravity-defying cornices, crags are sheer with ice and snow, frothing waterfalls in gullies become static sculptures; all the more alluring because the climb is different every year.

    The guide is divided into five different areas, with clear maps to find the crags and colour photo-topos to locate all the intricate routes. The routes range from classic high-mountain gullies and buttresses on crags such as Scafell, Pillar, and Great Gable to frozen watercourses and icefalls including Great Gully on the Wasdale Screes, Launchy Gill, Low Water Beck and Cautley Spout. And, of course, popular venues like Great End and the Eastern Coves of the Helvellyn Escarpment are described in detail. With additional sections on winter equipment, ethics and conservation, climbing walls, accommodation and a first-ascent list, Winter Climbs in the Lake District is an indispensable companion to any climber counting the days to the first snow.

    • a comprehensive guide to the best of the best winter climbing routes
    • advice on equipment, hazards, techniques and weather
    • detailed maps, photography and topos of over 950 routes

     

    The BMC have published a 36 page downloadable pdf (4.5 MB) 'The White Guide'  with information on winter climbing safety and ethics in the Lake District.

     
  • Contents

    Acknowledgments    
    Maps and diagrams in this guide    
    Location map    
    Map key    
    Editor’s note   

    Introduction   

    Conditions    
    Winter ethics    
    Winter climbing styles    
    Where to climb?    
    Equipment    
    Winter grades    
    Dry tooling grades    
    Using this guide    
    First ascents or first claims?   

    South Lakes   

    Langdale   

    Oxendale    
    Bowfell    
    Langdale Pikes   

    Coniston   

    Dow    
    The Old Man Of Coniston     
    Wetherlam    
    Tilberthwaite and The Slate Quarries   

    West Lakes   

    Eskdale   

    Little Narrow Cove   

    Wasdale   

    Scafell Massif    
    Scafell    
    Scafell Pike    
    Lingmell    
    Mosedale    
    Western Wasdale   

    Ennerdale  

    Mirklin Cove    
    Mirk Cove and Wind Gap Cove    
    Pillar   

    Great Gable and Kirk Fell   

    Gable South    
    Gable North    
    Kirk Fell   

    Buttermere   

    Honister Pass     
    Fleetwith Pike – North Face    
    Warnscale Bottom    
    Birkness Combe    
    Bleaberry Combe    
    Grasmoor    
    Newlands    
    Coledale     
    Whinlatter   

    North Lakes   

    Borrowdale   

    Borrowdale East    
    Great End Area    
    Borrowdale West   

    Northern Fells   

    Skiddaw    
    Blencathra (Saddleback)    
    Carrock Fell   

    Thirlmere   

    East Lakes   

    Helvellyn Massif   

    Helvellyn    
    Nethermost Cove     
    Ruthwaite Cove     
    Cock Cove     
    Dollywaggon   

    Patterdale and Adjacent Valleys   

    Patterdale – East    
    Patterdale – West    
    Grisedale     
    Deepdale     
    Sleet Cove    
    Dovedale     
    Kirkstone Pass    

    Far Eastern Fells  

    Mardale    
    Blea Water    
    Riggindale     
    Whelter Bottom     
    Swindale    
    Longsleddale    
    Kentmere   

    Outlying Areas   

    The Howgills   

    Northern Pennines   

    Dry Tooling Routes   

    First Ascents    

    Appendix A    Winter Climbing and Nature Conservation    
    Appendix B     Procedure for Mountain Accidents    
    Appendix C     Useful Contacts    
    Appendix D    Campsites and Camping Barns    
    Appendix E    Climbing Walls    

    Index of Routes    
     

  • Updates
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    We are always grateful to readers for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground. If you would like to send some information to us then please use our contact form. They will be published here following review by the author(s).

  • Reviews

    'Covering over 200 peaks, the book describes almost every inch of routes up some of the Lakes most famous mountains.'

    The Westmorland Gazette, January 2013

    '...Brian has built up an impressive and in depth knowledge of the Lake District which he brings to you in the form of this book. ...jam packed with useful info including info on the surrounding flora and fauna and how to maximise the potential of your photos!'

    UNDO Climbing Blog, January 2013

  • Downloads
Daviso

Brian Davison

Brian Davison has been winter climbing for some 30 years and has notched up an impressive list of first ascents in Scotland, Wales and the English Lake District, as well as having climbed all over the world. He lives in Lancaster with his family and is a researcher at Lancaster University.

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