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Discover the best Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms with a Cicerone guidebook

Cover of Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms
15 Dec 2011
17.2 x 11.6 x 1.8cm
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Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms

The Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh

by Allen Fyffe, Blair Fyffe
Book published by Cicerone Press

A practical guidebook to the best winter climbing routes in the Cairngorms, on Creag Meagaidh noted for its classic ice climbs, Lochnagar and Braeriach. Routes include a wide range of grades, lengths and styles, with stunning photographs, topos and route descriptions. Simple to exceptionally difficult routes. Scottish winter climbing at its best.

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Size: 17.2 x 11.6 x 1.8cm
Weight: 340g

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In three separate sections, the northern and southern areas of the Cairngorms National Park as well as the peak of Creag Meagaidh to the west of the main range, this guidebook offers a selection of some of the best winter climbing routes to be found in this beautiful mountain environment in the heart of Scotland.

The granite peaks of the Cairngorms have extensive areas of high plateau and four peaks over 4000ft, while Creag Meagaidh is noted for its classic ice climbs. The guide also covers the well-known routes on the magnificent cliffs of Lochnagar and Creag an Dubh Loch, as well as the more remote and serious climbs on the corries of Braeriach and Beinn a'Bhuird.

The major climbing venues of the Cairngorms have some of the finest winter routes in Britain. Some are easily accessible, others extremely remote, but the climbing is always superb. From long, varied routes to short, technical tests and a range of pure ice climbs as well as mixed routes to rival any others in the country, the Cairngorms is an exceptional range with something to suit all winter climbers.

  • routes illustrated in 51 colour photo topos
  • includes a wide range of grades, lengths and styles, from straightforward to exceptionally difficult
  • all climbs require a solid mountaineering background
  • Seasons
    any time from November until April, and in exceptional years, as early as October or as late as June!
  • Centres
    Aviemore and Strathspey in the north and Braemar and Deeside for the south and central areas; Creag Meagaidh is accessible Speyside and also from Fort William and the west.
  • Difficulty
    a wide range of routes and difficulty from straightforward climbs to some of exceptional difficulty; from single pitches to over 250m in length and from easily accessible to extremely remote but requiring a solid mountaineering background.
  • Must See
    main area covered is the Cairngorms, both north and south, granite peaks with extensive areas of high plateau and four peaks over 4,000 feet in high, offering superb winter climbing in a unique mountain environment.
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Getting to the Cairngorms

List of diagrams


Routes and grades
Route lengths
Recommended routes
Mountain rescue

Cairngorms North

Overview map

Coire an t-Sneachda

The Mess of Pottage
Aladdin’s Buttress
Fluted Buttress
Fiacaill Buttress

Coire an Lochain

Number 1 Buttress
Number 2 Buttress
Number 3 Buttress
Number 4 Buttress

Lurcher’s Crag (Creag an Leth-Choin)

Sron na Lairige

Carn Etchachan

The Lower Cliff, Main Face
The Upper Cliff, Main Face
The Gully Face

Shelter Stone Crag

Garbh Uisge Crag

Hell’s Lum Crag

Stag Rocks

Left-hand Section
Right-hand Section

Stac an Fharaidh

East Flank
West Flank

The Cairntoul/Braeriach Amphitheatre

Angel’s Peak
Corrie of the Chokestone Gully
Garbh Choire Mor
Garbh Choire Dhaidh
Coire Bhrochain
Coire an Lochain

The Corries of Beinn a’Bhuird

Coire na Ciche
Coire an Dubh Lochain
Garbh Choire

Coire Sputan Dearg

Grey Man’s Crag Area
Snake Ridge Area
The Central Buttresses

Creagan a’Choire Etchachan

Cairngorms South

Overview map

The Southern Sector

Perseverance Wall
The Cathedral

The Northern Sector

Central and Shadow Buttress Group
Eagle Ridge and the Parallel Buttress Group
Black Spout Pinnacle
West Buttress Group

Creag an Dubh Loch

Eagles Rocks

Mid-West Buttress
Mid-East Buttress
Broad Cairn Bluffs

Glen Clova

Winter Corrie
Corrie Fee

Creag Meagaidh

Overview map

Creag Meagaidh

Girdle Traverse
Bellevue Buttress
Raeburn’s Gully Buttress
Pinnacle Buttress
The Post Face
The Inner Corrie

Appendix A  Index of Routes: Cairngorms North

Appendix B  Index of Routes: Cairngorms South

Appendix C  Index of Routes: Creag Meagaidh

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