Walking in Umbria: a complete planning guide

What is Walking in Umbria?

Walking in Umbria by Gillian Price is a day-walk collection covering the full geographic breadth of one of Italy's most captivating regions. The 40 routes are organised across six distinct areas: Alta Val Tiberina, Gubbio and Monte Cucco; Lago Trasimeno and its islands; Orvieto and Todi; Assisi and Monte Subasio; Spoleto and the Valnerina; and Norcia and the Sibillini mountains. Together they give a thorough introduction to walking in Umbria, from short island walks of under an hour to full-day mountain routes requiring a solid level of fitness.

The region earns its nickname as the green heart of Italy. Where neighbouring Tuscany draws the crowds, Umbria proceeds at a gentler pace, its hilltowns and vine-terraced valleys largely unhurried. Walking here means passing through medieval village streets where little has changed in centuries, descending into wooded river gorges alive with birds of prey and wildflowers, and emerging onto open ridges with views across the Apennines. Several routes explore the shores and islands of Lago Trasimeno, Italy's fourth-largest lake, while the Sibillini section reaches into genuinely remote mountain terrain.

This guidebook is the first English-language walking guide to provide comprehensive coverage of walking possibilities across the whole of Umbria. For walkers planning time in any of the six main areas covered, it is the definitive starting point. For complete route descriptions and sketch maps for all 40 walks, see the Cicerone Walking in Umbria guidebook.

The 40 walks at a glance

The guidebook divides Umbria into six geographic chapters, each centred on a distinct area with its own character.

1 Alta Val Tiberina, Gubbio and Monte Cucco (Walks 1–8) covers the northern reaches of Umbria: eight walks around the ancient hilltowns of Montone and Monte Santa Maria Tiberina, the handsome medieval city of Gubbio, and the limestone peaks of Monte Cucco. This section includes the only Grade 2–3 mountain terrain in the collection.

2 Lago Trasimeno and environs (Walks 9–15) is the lake district chapter. Seven walks take in the ridge above Passignano, the battle site at Tuoro and Monte Gualandro, and the two lake islands of Isola Maggiore and Isola Polvese, the latter a nature reserve. Several routes here are suited to beginners and families.

3 Orvieto and Todi (Walks 16–23) is the most varied chapter, ranging from an easy ring walk around dramatic Orvieto to the longer traverse from Orvieto to Bolsena and full-day circuits around the rural landscapes of Titignano and Vasciano.

4 Assisi and around (Walks 24–27) covers four routes around one of Italy's most visited pilgrimage towns, including an ascent of Monte Subasio and a traverse from Bevagna to Montefalco through wine country.

5 Spoleto and the Valnerina (Walks 28–34) is the most varied section in terms of length and grade. Seven routes include town walks around Spoleto, a challenging 19km traverse along the historic railway line of the Valnerina, and mountain circuits in the wilder country to the south around Cascia and Monte Meraviglia.

6 Norcia and the Sibillini (Walks 35–40) is the most demanding chapter. Six routes explore the high terrain above Norcia, culminating in the Piano Grande di Castelluccio, the flower-filled plateau that blazes with colour in early June.

When is the best time to walk in Umbria?

Umbria can be walked year-round, though spring and autumn are the best times.

Spring (March to early June) is the finest season for most walks. Long spells of clear weather, cool mornings and evenings, and warm days make for ideal conditions. Wildflowers are exceptional from April onwards, with meadows of crocus, primrose, and orchids giving way to the extraordinary floral display on the Piano Grande di Castelluccio in early June, when the plateau blazes with mustard yellow, cornflower blue, and poppy red.

Summer (late June to August) can bring intense heat in the valleys and towns, but the higher mountain routes around Monte Cucco and the Sibillini offer a cool and rewarding alternative. The region is busier at this time, particularly in Assisi, Gubbio, and Orvieto.

Autumn (September to October) is a strong second choice: crisp air, clear visibility, and excellent light for photography. Mushroom foraging is a local passion, and the vineyards and olive groves take on warm colour. A note of caution: the hunting season runs through the winter months, with organised wild boar hunts using large groups of dogs and armed participants. Walkers should avoid any area where a hunt is in progress.

Winter (November to February) closes the higher mountain districts. The Sibillini and Monte Cucco can be snowbound from December to March, with year-to-year variation. Lower-level and town walks remain accessible throughout.

What accommodation is available near the walks?

Each of the six areas has at least one well-served base town with a good range of accommodation. The guidebook appendix lists a selection of mid-range hotels and B&Bs convenient for each set of walks, covering cosy family-run places, comfortable hotels in historic palaces, rustic mountain refuges, converted monasteries, and simple B&Bs in small villages.

Advance booking is generally not required except during Italian public holidays and peak summer weekends, particularly in Assisi, Gubbio, Perugia, and Spoleto. Castelluccio, at the heart of the Sibillini, is in high demand during the Fiorita flowering period in early June and books up quickly.

For a wider choice including agriturismo (farm stays), self-catering, and camping, the local tourist offices listed in Appendix C are the best resource. Half-board (mezza pensione) is sometimes available and usually represents good value.

How do I get to Umbria?

Several international airports serve the region. The most convenient is Perugia (aeroporto.umbria.it), with ongoing public transport connections into the region. On the Adriatic coast, Ancona and Pescara are options, while Pisa serves those approaching from the west. Both of Rome's airports, Fiumicino and Ciampino, are well connected to Umbria by bus and train, with long-distance coaches linking Fiumicino directly with Todi, Perugia, and Assisi.

For getting around Umbria, the centralised Umbria Mobilità network (umbriamobilita.it) covers buses, trains, and ferries across the region. Many walks are accessible by public transport, though some require private transport or a local taxi arranged through your hotel. Tickets for buses should be purchased before boarding and stamped on board; trains use Trenitalia for mainline routes and FCU for the Terni–Perugia–Sansepolcro lines.

What are the highlights of walking in Umbria?

• Orvieto is one of Italy's most dramatically positioned towns, sitting atop a tufa plateau above vineyards. Walks 16 and 17 explore the town and its extraordinary medieval aqueduct; Walk 18 links Orvieto to the volcanic crater lake at Bolsena.
• Lago Trasimeno offers peaceful lakeside and island walking far from the usual Italian tourist trail. Isola Maggiore (Walk 11) and Isola Polvese (Walk 12) are short, ferry-accessible circuits with real charm.
• Assisi and Monte Subasio need little introduction as a UNESCO World Heritage site, but Walk 25 takes walkers up onto the open ridge of Monte Subasio above the town for views across the Apennines.
• The Valnerina is a little-known river gorge running through the heart of southern Umbria. Walk 30 follows the line of a disused railway through its tunnels from Spoleto to Sant'Anatolia di Narco, a route unlike anything else in the book.
• The Piano Grande di Castelluccio (Walk 39) is one of the most famous landscapes in central Italy: a vast upland plain ringed by the Sibillini peaks, most spectacular in early June when the wildflower bloom is at its peak.
• Gubbio is one of Umbria's best-preserved medieval cities. Walks 5 and 6 explore the hills above the town with views across the wide plain below.

About Gillian Price, guidebook author

Gillian Price has trekked throughout Asia and the Himalayas, but now lives in Venice and is exploring the mountains and flatter bits of Italy. Starting in the Italian Dolomites, Gillian has written outstanding Cicerone guides to walking all over Italy as well as Corsica and Corfu. An adamant promoter of public transport to minimise environmental impact, Gillian belongs to Mountain Wilderness and is an active member of the Venice branch of CAI, the Italian Alpine Club. Check her out at www.gillianprice.eu.