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A definitive guidebook to walking and trekking in Romania's Carpathian Mountains, one of the wildest parts of Eastern Europe. Covers all the main ranges in the southern Carpathians, and the Eastern Carpathians and Bucovina's monasteries. Complete information on getting to grips with Romania.
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More than just beautiful landscapes, Europe’s wildest mountains offer a chance to discover a European scene that has now disappeared further west. There is a remarkable wealth of wildlife, the region being one of the last European strongholds of the wolf and bear.
The author, James Roberts, was an enthusiastic walker and explorer from an early age. As a leading authority on walking in Romania, he guided walking groups there for several years. Sadly, although quite young, he died while this book was in the final stages of preparation.
Thank you to Neil Blundy for the following information:
Cabana Caraiman (pages 49, 205) is no longer operating as a full service cabana. Use the nearby Cabana Babele instead.
Cabana Urlea (pages 92, 211) is totally derelict. It is not even suitable for emergency shelter.
Cabana Suru (pages 101, 211) has been rebuilt and is now a full service cabana again.
These changes bring major implications for hikers attempting the full skyline traverse of the Fagaras Ridge as described in the guide pages 91–103. Particularly if camping gear is not being carried.
It is now almost impossible to do the route as described by the author as the day from Plaiul Foii to Urlea (derelict), already extremely long, would need to be lengthened further to reach Sambetei.
An acceptable alternative is to approach from the north via Breaza. This is route 1c, page 104 in the guide. Very comfortable accommodation and meals can be found at House Coltii Brezei, 4km south of Breaza. House Coltii Brezei is clearly marked on the Bel Alpin 1:75,000 Fagaras Mountains map but no mention of it is made in the book, presumably because it post-dates its publication.
The good news is that with the resurrection of Cabana Suru the traverse can be completed on the western end without problems.
Thank you to Martim Schmid for the following information:
p162: The narrow-gauge railway in Aries Valley does not operate any more.
p218: Cheile Turzii cabana is currently closed.
At the moment, there are 8 beds available in casute outside run by the
bistro owners next to the cabana. You are allowed to put up a tent for a
small fee. Plumbing is still poor.
- local, national and international bus connections are available at
- hiking maps for several regions in Romania have been issued by a
Hungarian publisher: www.dimap.hu
Chapter One: The Mountains of Romania
How to use this book
Backpacking in Romania
Organised walking holidays in Romania
Getting to Romania
Entry into Romania
Getting to the mountains
Money in Romania
When to go
Where to go
Outdoor equipment in Romania
Waymarking of mountain paths
International long-distance footpaths
What to take with you
Narrow-gauge forest railways
Food and drink
Flora and fauna
A word of warning
Chapter Two: The Bucegi Massif
Itinerary through the Bucegi massif
Chapter Three: East of the Prahova
The Piatra Mare massif
The Gârbova and Baiului
The Ciucas massif
Chapter Four: The Mountains around Brasov
Across the Postavaru massif
Chapter Five: The Piatra Craiului and Iezer-Papusa Massifs
The Piatra Craiului
The Iezer-Papusa massif
Chapter Six: The Fagaras Chain
Itinerary along the Fagaras ridge
The Cozia massif
Chapter Seven: From the Olt to the Jiu
The Cindrel massif
The Latoritei ridge
The Parâng massif
The Sureanu massif
The Capatân massif
The Lotru massif
Chapter Eight: The Retezat Mountains
The Vâlcan massif
The Tarcu massif
Chapter Nine: The Mountains of Banat
Chapter Ten: The Mountains of Maramure[
The Gutâi mountains
The Rodna mountains
Chapter Eleven: The Apuseni Mountains
The Gilau massif
The Bihor-Vladeasa region
Chapter Twelve: The Eastern Carpathians
The Suhard massif
The Bârgau massif
The Rarau-Giumalau massif
The Caliman massif
The Ceahlau massif
The Hasmas massif and Lacu Rosu
The Harghita massif
The Muntii Ciucului
The Bodoc massif
The Vrancea massif and Penteleu
Chapter Thirteen: The Monasteries of Bucovina
List of Maps
Romania: areas covered in this guide
Map 1: The Bucegi
Map 2: Postavaru and Piatra Mare
Map 3: The Fitifoi, Diham and Gârbova
Map 4: The Ciucas
Map 5: The Piatra Craiului
Map 6: Iezer-Papusa
Map 7: The Fagaras
Map 8: The Fagaras – Bâlea Lac area in detail
Map 9: The Fagaras – the Negoiu area in detail
Map 10: The Cozia
Map 11: The Cindrel
Map 12: The Parâng
Map 13: The Vâlcan
Map 14: The Retezat
Map 15: The Central Retezat in detail
Map 16: The Semenic Massif
Map 17: The Rodna Massif
Map 18: The Trascau
Map 19: The Bihor and Vladeasa Mountains
Map 20: The Rarau-Giumalau Mountains
Map 21: The Caliman Mountains
Map 22: The Ceahlau Mountains
Map 23: The Hasmas Massif
Map 24: Lacu Rosu area in detail
Map 25: The Harghita Mountains
Map 26: The Bodoc Massif
Map 27: The Vrancea Mountains and Penteleu