Costa Blanca Walks Vol 2 East
Costa Blanca Walks Vol 2 East
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£12.00
The rugged mountains of the Costa Blanca offer wonderful walking in a landscape of pinnacled ridges, enormous crags, and shady pines. Orange and almond groves enhance the valleys, whilst attractive mountain villages provide hospitality, offering a taste of the real Spain, far removed in character from the developed coastal strip.
Mountain Walks on the Costa Blanca volumes 1 and 2 are simple, easily understood guidebooks, written to enable both visiting and resident mountain walkers to share the delights of ascending and traversing this most satisfying and picturesque mountain area of the Costa Blanca. The two volumes divide the region roughly into west and east. Volume 1 covers the area north and west of Benidorm, while volume 2 covers the area to the north of Calpe.
The guide is not offered in any way as a manual for mountain walking. Readers are assumed to have acquired these skills elsewhere. Some modest strolls are included, which are suitable for walkers of any age or ability, and the guide also offers advice on the differences between walking in these mountains and those of Britain.
Costa Blanca
The region known as the Levant, bordering the Mediterranean, includes the Costa Blanca, which runs from Denia in the north to Torrevieja in the south. The walks in this book fall within Alicante, part of the Costa Blanca and one of the three provinces of Valencia, an ancient kingdom with its own language, customs and flag. Spanish kings, and more recently a dictator, have tried hard to prohibit such manifestations of local pride, and until the recent restoration of the monarchy and the move towards democracy, the language, local costumes and fiestas were prohibited by law. Now there is a spirited revival, Valencia is a region with autonomy and its own government, and the flag proudly flies alongside the national one. Don’t be at all surprised to hear country folk speaking Valenciano or a mixture of both languages, and nearly all notices, including road signs, are in Valenciano.
Spain, like France, has now named all its coasts in the interest, no doubt, of tourism. Luckily, the development of tourism has largely been confined to the coastal strip, where vines and oranges have given way to villas, apartments and the major resort of Benidorm. Inland, however, the countryside remains (with one or two exceptions) unspoiled, with the country people still making a living from agriculture. It is not many years ago that Benidorm was a poor fishing village, and women walked barefoot to Callosa de Ensarria to sell fish in the more prosperous inland town.
With the exception of Switzerland, Spain is the most mountainous country in Europe, and the Costa Blanca is no exception, with the mountains coming right down to the sea. By far the greatest concentration of mountain scenery is to be found in the north of the Costa, in the district known as Las Marinas, and these are the mountains traversed by the Costa Blanca Mountain Way (see ‘The Costa Blanca Mountain Way’ section of volume 1).
The Costa has excellent communications, and on the coast accommodation is lavish. Inland, over the past years hotels and accommodation have improved greatly and there are now good hotels in most of the valleys.
The climate is typically Mediterranean, the rain falling mainly in spring and autumn in heavy downpours. This gives the region over 300 glorious mountain days, although not everyone will want to be on the hills in the middle of a hot August day, when even at 1000m it can be 98°F (37°C).
The Area Covered by the Guide
This comprises mainly two comarcas (local authorities) of the province of Alicante, La Marina Baja and La Marina Alta (lower and higher). The area is easily identifiable on maps as the large promontory between Valencia and Alicante.
The ridges and valleys of the mountains radiate roughly from the city of Alcoy, 50km from the coast, like the fingers of a hand. The most northerly valley is that of the Rio Serpis, and is actually in the comarca of Safor. Next comes the beautiful Val de Gallinera, famous for castles and cherries. Further south, is the remote Val d’Ebo and the Val d’Alcala, accessible only by negotiating the acute hair-pin bends on the most difficult, but most picturesque, road in the area. Then there is the Val Laguart, a lovely unspoiled valley, with a road which leads right to its head and continues across the Caballo Verde Ridge at Col de Garga. The road continues, again with many a hair-pin, down into the next valley, that of the Rio Jalon, probably one of the most attractive valleys for tourists due to the picturesque situation, ringed by high mountains, with the broad lower valley ablaze with the blossom of thousands of almond trees in the spring (February). It is the only mountain valley which has been granted appellation status for the wines it produces. Further south, another tortuous mountain road negotiates the side of the Pinos Valley to reach the high plateau of the Bernia. The next valley, that of the Rios Guadalest and Algar, is without doubt the most popular with tourists, and the road has been improved to accommodate the many coaches which bring them daily from Benidorm. Despite this the valley remains unspoiled. Set amongst the highest peaks of the region, with the added attraction of the only large stretch of open water, the Embalse de Guadalest, justifies its reputation as the most beautiful of valleys. The final valley is that of the Rio Sella, which leads inland from Villajoyosa to cross the Aitana Ridge at Paso de Tudons.
The Mountains
It is a mistake to classify a mountain solely by its height – its form is much more important. The mountains of the area are modest in height – 1000m (3300ft) on average. Some, however, reach 1558m (5000ft). But they all have the true characteristics of a mountain – rocky summits, sheer crags, deep gullies and ravines, exciting ridges and pinnacles, and, above all, magnificent views. In addition they have the distinct advantage of accessibility with good approaches by road to the high plateaux or passes, and can all be climbed comfortably in a day, many in a few hours. No need here for cable-cars, mountain huts or a long walk in before you can even set foot on the mountain.
Geology
‘The Alpine structures of Southern Spain, south of the MESETA, are divided into three units of BETICS (sensu stricto), SUB-BETICS and PRE-BETICS’ (C.B. Mosley, Field Guide to the Costa Blanca). For those like me, ignorant of the finer points of geology, this means limestone with some nostalgic intrusions of gabbro. The limestone, a sedimentary rock, is easily eroded by the chemical action of the rain, and rivers soon disappear underground, forming a network of shafts and caverns beloved of the potholer. There are many areas of limestone pavement, with their fissures (grykes), which make for difficult walking. Much of the rock is friable, and on some of the ridges ‘jug handles’ are liable to come away in your hand. Despite this, there are a lot of difficult climbs put up on great walls of solid rock, particularly on Puig Campaña, Peñon d’Ifach, Toix and Altea Hills, the Sella area and Monte Ponoch.
Travel To and Around Costa Blanca
By Air
There is an international airport at Valencia, which is sometimes used by those visiting the north of the Costa Blanca, but by far the most popular is the airport at Alicante, El Altet, which is much used by package tour operators. There are taxis (rather expensive) and a bus service to Alicante Bus Station from the airport. All tour operators provide coach transport from the airport, and hire cars are available here, but it is better to hire your car in advance.
By Road
The main trunk road, CN332, runs down the coast, giving access to all the resorts. Only Benidorm, however, is so far by-passed, so at peak times there can be delays in passing through the towns.
The A7 autopista (motorway) is superb except for the fact that you have to pay rather dearly for this service. As a result of this toll charge you will find it uncrowded, even in the height of summer.
Minor roads may be narrow by British standards, but have an excellent surface. Caminos rural, even narrower, will take you high into the mountains, and usually have a good surface. Forestry roads give access, even to the summit of some mountains, but are only really suitable for four-wheel drive vehicles due to the variable surface, steep gradients and the tendency to disappear after a storm.
Roads often have kilometre marker stones, and these are a useful reference.
Bus Services
The service from Alicante city is extensive, and operated by Alcoyana.
Ubesa (Union Benissa) operate a service from Alicante to Valencia, with links to other towns along the route. Benidorm has a municipal service, including a service in the tourist season to Algar and Guadalest. Other resorts along the coast have a limited service solely to satisfy local needs.
The bus service to mountain villages is either non-existent or extremely poor, and this means of transport is virtually useless for those who wish to engage in mountain walking.
Information from Central Bus Station, Plaza de Seneca, Alicante (Tel: 522 0700).
Trains
Alicante has main-line connections with the rest of Spain and Europe. The main line runs inland to Valencia via Alcoy.
El Trenet, a narrow-gauge, single-track railway owned by the provincial government of Alicante runs daily services from Alicante to Denia. This line is extremely picturesque, especially between Benidorm and Benissa, where the track runs close to the Corniche. This is not a speedy service, as the train stops at every station, and some trains do not run from Altea to Denia, turning back at Altea del Olla.
With the exception possibly of Calpe, and the halt of Ferrandet, the line is of little use to mountain walkers. From Calpe station there is a bus service to the base of the Peñon d’Ifach, and from Ferrandet you can step out onto the Olta route. The railway company has commissioned a local mountaineer to survey a number of walks from stations along the route.
For train information contact:
R.E.N.F.E. (Main Line),
Avenida de Salamanca,
Alicante
F.G.V. (Coastal),
Ferrocarriles de la Generalitat,
Avenida de Villajoyosa, 2
Alicante.
Taxis
Taxis are identifiable by the green light fitted to their roof. Costa Blanca taxis are far more expensive than those in Madrid and Barcelona. They are certainly not an option for the walker wanting a day out in the mountains.
Car Hire
This is by far the best option for the visiting mountain walker. The smaller cars are very reasonable to hire, sturdy and reliable. They can be booked in Britain as part of a package, available at the airport or at your hotel. For pre-booking in England a recommended firm, which has proved reliable and gives good value for money, is Premier Car Hire (Tel: 01279 641040). A current British (EEC) driving licence is generally acceptable. There are even small four-wheel drive vehicles available for hire, but be sure to book in advance for this type of vehicle.
Accommodation
There is plenty of accommodation of every description to be found on the Costa Blanca. Hotels, hostels and apartments abound. There are also casas de huespedes (boarding houses), pensiones (guest houses), fondas (inns) and casas de labranzas (farm houses) to be had, and the Provincial Tourist Board (Patronata Provincial de Turismo), at Esplanada de Espana, 2 Alicante, will supply a list of accommodation. Hospitality can be found, however rudimentary, even in the remote villages.
Package Holidays
These are very good value, especially if you take a ‘special offer’, which allows the tour operator to choose your hotel and resort within the Costa Blanca.
Hotels
Benidorm has more hotel beds than any other resort in Europe, so it is more than likely to be offered by your travel agent. There are also good hotels at all other resorts, and an excellent parador (state-run luxury hotel) in Javea. There are motels alongside the CN332 at Gata le Gorgos, Oliva, Vergel and Calpe.
Apartments
There are hundreds of these at the main resorts, and are extremely popular with the Spaniards as well as other nationalities. Apartments usually have minimal cooking facilities. Shopping in the popular resorts is easy and food is reasonably priced. Unlike France, shops do not open very early; they close for an early afternoon siesta, and stay open in the early evening. The largest supermarkets open longer, some even on Sunday. Self-catering is not a problem, due to the relatively cheap menus available in bars and restaurants.
Villas
Most letting agents can supply a list of villas for rent, to suit individual needs, and most include the use of a private swimming pool. These are very good value, especially for a large party.
Youth Hostels
Youth Hostel Aubergue La Marina is situated next to La Comita Campsite: take the first turning right leaving Moraira towards Calpe. The director is Amparo Franqueza, and the hostel offers accommodation for 130 in 2-, 4- and 6-bedded rooms. Usual activities including mountaineering (opened September 1994).
Camping
Many mountain villages have now established campsites. Notable campsites ideal for walkers are at Calpe (Camping Municipal, high on the flank of Olta), Campell in Val Laguart, Finestrat and at Alcala de la Jovada. The Provincial Tourist Board produces a list of the commercial coastal sites – but these are expensive and far from ideal for walkers. General information is available from:
Agrupacion Nacional de Camping de Espana
Duque de Medinaceli 2, Madrid
Oficina de Turismo Tourist – Info
Explanada de España 2, 03002 Alicante (Tel: 521 22 85 & 520 00 00)
Oficinas Municipales de InformacionTuristica
Avda. Europa, 03500 Benidorm (Tel: 586 00 95)
Oficinas Municipales de InformacionTuristica
Avda Ejércitos Españoies 66, 03710 Calpe.
In England a list of camp sites and information is available from
Spanish National Tourist Office
57-58 St James’s Court
London SW1 (Tel: 0171 499 0901).
There is no need for a Camping Carnet in Spain. Camping libre, or camping off-site, is popular with the Spaniards. The advice of the tourist board is to ask the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) in the villages for permission and advice. Camping Libre may be restricted in certain areas which are vulnerable to forest fires.
Accommodation Inland
There are two mountain huts that provide accommodation.
- Refugio La Figuera on the Col de Molinos, Km.18, on the CV721, Pego to Val de Ebo Road. Enquiries Town Hall (Ajuntamiento), Pego.
- Casa Refugio Font de L Arc, Camino de Val, Sella 03579, Tel 96 587 2102 or 96 594 1019. 4km from Sella at the end of the surfaced section of the road leading to Paso de los Contadores and Benimantell. Sleeping accommodation and rock climbing guides. For directions see Route No. 12 in volume 1.
Where to Stay
This is very much an individual choice depending on the area in which you intend to walk, but Calpe is considered to be the central point on the coast. From Calpe, in 15min, you can be across the Pass of the Windmills, ready to start your exploration of the beautiful Jalon Valley. In 30min, you can enter the Val Laguart, which will take you high into the mountains, or explore the Pinos Valley, which will take you to the high plateau of the Sierre Bernia, or go south to the thriving inland town of Callosa d’Ensarria, through extensive groves of citrus fruits. From Callosa d’Ensarria, you have to decide whether to visit the Algar Valley with its attractive waterfalls, or to head into the Guadalest Valley, without doubt the most beautiful and picturesque valley of them all.
In 45min, you can be in the interesting town of Pego, ready to explore the unspoiled valley of the Gallinera, with its four castles, six typical Spanish villages, all with Moorish names and, at the head of the valley, lies the beautiful Barranca Encantada (Enchanted Valley). Just a kilometre before you reach Pego, you might be tempted to turn off with the signs for Val d’Ebo, and climb, for 9km on the steepest, most dramatic, but definitely the most scenic road on the Costa (count the alpine bends, if you can drag your eyes away from the views).
Going south, in one hour you can be in Finestrat, a beautiful village, built on top of high cliffs, with casas colgadas (hanging houses) on the south side, pretty Hermita, set in beautiful gardens, on the highest point. From here, you get fantastic views of Alicante’s second-highest mountain. Puig Campaña. In a further 15min, you can be in the mountain village of Sella.
This itinerary may be of some use in deciding where to stay on the Costa Blanca, but wherever you stay on the coast, you will have easy access to the mountains. All the times refer to leisurely driving on provincial roads. For those in a hurry, and with unlimited funds, the A7 autopista will reduce the times given considerably.
Communications
Telephones
Telephone kiosks are not always reliable. Although they look modern and efficient, they can gobble up your small change and still not connect you. Often you will find that the machine will not operate because the cash container is full. A much more sensible idea is to use the facilities of a Locutorio, a manned kiosk, where the operator will connect your call for you. They are more expensive but efficient. Most bars have pay phones which always seem to work, but the problem is the noise of the TV. Using the phone in your hotel bedroom may be efficient, but the charge can be excessive.
Fax
There are facilities in most hotels, and public facilities (commercial) at all the resorts.
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