Via Ferratas Italian Dolomites: Vol 1

Guidebook covers via ferrata routes in Italy's North, Central and Eastern Dolomites, across an area stretching from Val di Fassa to Auronzo. These protected routes provide exhilarating views and exposure. The guidebook sets the routes out according to strategic valley bases. Routes are graded for both technical difficulty and for ‘seriousness’, indicating the mountain terrain and commitment involved.

View Sample Route Map

Arab 2: Via delle Trincee – La Mesola

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Grade: 4, Seriousness: B
Departure point: Porto Vescovo cable car
Ascent: 500m
Descent: 500m
Via ferrata: 300m
Approximate time: 6–7 hours (plus 1½–2 hours without cable car)
Highest altitude: 2727m
Note: torch essential

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The rock on this ridge is volcanic, and consequently the climbing has a different character and requires different techniques to the limestone routes which predominate in the Dolomites. Good protection is now in place throughout the route, and, even though the climbing on the first wall is noticeably steep and footholds limited, once you have done the initial haul the route becomes easier. In fact, because there are two good escape points along the ridge, you could tackle the route with some degree of comfort, even if a break in the weather is forecast later in the day. Note that the final section of the route negotiates a series of tunnels, for which a torch is essential.

The Porta Vescovo cable car runs from early July until early September, with longer operating hours during the peak month of August; it is closed at lunchtime. A return ticket makes a worthwhile round (see details of descent route below). When the cable car is not running, the approach to the route makes for a longer, more tiring day. However, you will have the considerable bonus of finding the route all but deserted – a rare treat! Whilst the walk up from Arabba is perfectly feasible, it is far better to drive or take the bus up towards Passo Pordoi, stopping short at Restauro Lezuo, where limited roadside parking is available. About 50m back down the road towards Arabba, a path leads off across the hillside (waymarked 680). After a couple of kilometres, you join the dirt access road which leads to the top station of the cable car, which you will reach in about 1½ hours from your starting point.

Generally the route is quite sound with little danger of loose rock, but watch out for some loose pebbles at the top of the first steep section; these are retained by a piece of timber shuttering. After the strenuous start, go along a ledge and move up and across a really superb slab and round a corner. The route continues up to the ridge, with its superb views all the way back down to Arabba. Follow the ridge and then cross the bridge; the route book which used to be stored here has been removed and not replaced. The route now continues along the ridge and eventually descends to a broad col, the end of the first section and the first escape point.

After the first section a short walk (clearly waymarked) leads uphill to some First World War buildings; this is about an hour or so from the start of the via ferrata, and so is probably a good place for a lunch stop. If the weather has turned bad, there is a straightforward descent to the south-west to join the path which traverses back to the cable car station.

The second section of the route continues along some ledges, with more wartime buildings, and then descends quite awkwardly down some stemples and wire, with a couple of helpful artificial footholds. Protection is good throughout, but this passage is exposed and feels somewhat insecure since you are down-climbing. The wire now leads round a corner and then down, again somewhat awkwardly. This is the end of the second section, where you arrive at a path leading across a steep grassy slope to yet more wartime buildings and the second escape point. This is another good place to stop for a break. If an escape is required, descent can be made on the south side of the ridge and back to the cable car. Indeed, many climbers seem to regard this as the end of the route, but they are missing out on a really interesting part of the day, which earns the route its name ‘Way of the Trenches’. This is where a torch is essential.

To complete the excursion, continue towards Padon on the path along the lovely airy crest straight ahead of you. This leads to the next section of cable, which leads down to the south side of the ridge. After about 10 minutes, follow waymarks past a bricked-up tunnel and continue the traverse. In a further 5 minutes, a big cave is passed and the cable leads back up to the ridge. Then descend on the north side and into the first short tunnel, where at the first junction of tunnels you take the left branch. (The tunnel system you are now entering contains a number of junctions and side galleries. They are, however, well waymarked, but do keep a sharp eye out for them since they can be easily missed in the gloom.) On leaving the short tunnel, follow waymarks through another short tunnel and then along some trenches on the side of the hill. About 30 minutes after entering the first tunnel, the last of the protective cable heads uphill again before going into a long uphill tunnel section. This offers splendid views of the Marmolada to the south from the old lookout points.

The route ends when you emerge from the last tunnel at the Bivouac Bontadini; then take a clear path down to Rif. Padon, where refreshments can be had. Also at Padon there is a small but interesting wartime museum, which is open from mid-July to the end of August. Allow about 5 hours for the whole of the route through to Padon, including some time for lunch stops.

Whilst a descent can be made from Passo Padon direct to Arabba in about 11?2 hours (on paths 699 and 698), this goes down the winter ski pistes and is not recommended. A better option is to follow the waymarked path from Padon back to the cable car. The path initially descends to the west from Rif. Padon along pleasant grassy slopes. After passing through a collection of very large boulders, and as the path rises steadily uphill, ensure that you keep taking the right-hand forks which you come across, since there are a number of animal tracks which look appealing but will take you on a traverse line well below the cable car. The path also provides a good view of the line of the route, including the bridge which you crossed several hours earlier. Allow about an hour from Padon back to the cable car.