The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path - A Walker's Guide
The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path
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Chapter 6 - Milford Haven to Dale
10.7 miles (17.2km)
Milford Haven (Aberdaugleddau)
Before the nineteenth century Milford Haven was merely a collection of fishing cottages. The land had been acquired by marriage at the end of the previous century by Sir William Hamilton, who, through an Act of Parliament, obtained permission to build a new town and dockyard. The work was undertaken by his nephew Charles Greville who persuaded a group of Quaker whalers, forced out of Nantucket by religious prejudice, to settle here. They laid the foundations of success by producing whale oil, then in great demand as the main fuel for providing lighting. Fortune was short-lived, however, as the manufacture and use of coal gas was developed soon after, thus obviating the need for oil.Other possibilities were recognised by Lord Nelson, who had been encouraged to visit in 1802 by Lady Emma Hamilton, then Sir William’s young second wife. He praised the natural features of the Haven, and promoted the building of a dockyard. However, the idea did not materialise, for although the Navy already leased shipyards from the family, Greville’s heir demanded too high a price for the lease’s renewal and in 1814 the Navy took their business upstream to Paterchurch and built Pembroke Dock.
Prosperity remained elusive until, in 1888, a dock and harbour were finally completed. A busy fishing fleet developed, supported by the railway that had by now reached Milford Haven, and could send fish directly and quickly to inland markets. The town’s other ambition, to attract Irish and Atlantic trade, was never realised, being lost successively to competition from Neyland, Fishguard and finally Liverpool.
The decline in fishing has had its effect on the town, although some advantage was gained in the heyday of the developing oil industry. Undaunted, a new future is being courted, and the development of a marina and leisure activity around the docks may well hold the key. The dock still supports a fishing industry, with new packing and distribution facilities opened on the western side, but many of the boats now using the harbour are from Spain and the catches are dispatched by road to the continent.
Yet, the harbour remains a busy place, and worth investigation. Hard-worked fishing boats, ravaged by toil and the elements, lie moored beside the quay, a testament to the arduous and dangerous conditions faced in bringing home the harvest of the sea. Alongside, sleek and polished yachts, almost clinically clean in their perfection, depict another breed of mariner who joists with the dangers of the sea to relieve the monotony of ‘civilised existence’. If you have time call in at the museum which vividly recalls the town’s glorious heyday, located in the old Customs House.
In planning the walk to Dale, you must bear in mind that two inlets have to be forded, the first at Sandy Haven (SM 855075) and the second at Pickleridge (SM 813070). Both crossings lie within the tidal range of the estuaries that they occupy and, although looking totally insignificant on the map, are sufficiently flooded by the incoming tide to make them impassable. Each can only be safely crossed within 2 hours either side of low tide and careful timing of your arrival at Sandy Haven is necessary to allow you sufficient time (up to 2 hours) to walk the intervening 5 miles (8.0km) or so of coast to Pickleridge before that crossing becomes impassable. Those planning a day walk and requiring to make a return journey will, of course, need to be doubly vigilant. If you miss either, there is no alternative crossing, and in both cases either a long wait (of up to 7½ hours) or substantial detour is necessary to reach the other side. Directions for the detours are given as alternatives.
Follow the dockside around the back of the harbour, continuing beyond the fish market until the way is barred by a gate in front of a marine maintenance area at the far side. There, leave the dock along a service road and follow it up to the King’s Arms. Just beyond the pub, take a path (the second on the left) which leads along the seafront. This eventually turns inland to join St Ann’s Road. Go up to the end and turn left into Picton Road, following that to a bend in front of a school.
The departure from the coast is to avoid the premises of the Milford Haven Conservancy Board and Fort Hubberston. The fort lies to the left at the end of Fort Rise, just before the school, but at present, there is no access and the place is well overgrown and suffering the effects of senseless vandalism. Despite this, it is a remarkable structure and plans have been put forward to develop it as a residential and retail complex.
Immediately past the school, go left along a pathway, which drops to the coast road behind. Follow it down and around the head of Gelliswick Bay. At the far end, ignore the entrance to the oil terminal jetty, which services the refinery inland and carry on below some large houses. Beyond, follow the perimeter of the former Esso refinery. The path drops to the beach to pass beneath the gantry that carried the pipework from the jetty and then regains the rolling cliffs to pass around South Hook Point.
South Hook Fort stands behind the boundary of the old Esso site and was used by the company as a store, but the gun batteries and accompanying underground magazines lie closer to the path. The refinery tanks have now gone, but their foundation platforms and interconnecting roadways remain. In time, nature may soften the still harsh contours, which at present serve as a bleak reminder of the scale of man’s industrial activity.
At South Hook the path heads north to Sandy Haven, finally leaving behind the industrialisation and urbanisation of the Haven’s middle reaches. There, it abandons the cliffs through a small caravan site onto a narrow lane. Continue ahead, dropping past Ferry Cottage to a slipway on the estuary.
Sandy Haven
Sandy Haven is a truly idyllic spot, its pleasure heightened by the contrast to the sprawling urbanisation through which you have just walked. The banks are heavily clad in trees that reach to the water’s edge, providing a lush background to the firm sands of the creek. The stream reaches back into a rolling landscape, suggesting secrets and mystery.The most evocative and eloquent description I have read of this wonderful place was penned by Graham Sutherland in a letter to his friend and patron Colin Anderson, who had asked about the places that influenced his work – ‘…The whole setting is one of exuberance – of darkness and light – of decay and life. Rarely have I been so conscious of the contrasting of these elements in so small a compass.’ Sutherland first visited Pembrokeshire in 1934, but was repeatedly drawn back throughout his life and, although he never painted in Wales, he was deeply influenced by its landscapes, extensively sketching what he saw. Perhaps his most famous work is the tapestry ‘Christ in Glory’, which was commissioned for Coventry’s new cathedral. At one time, a gallery commemorating his associations with the area was located at Picton Castle, near Haverfordwest, but his pictures were later moved to Cardiff. However, at the time of writing, there are plans to return them to Pembrokeshire in a new gallery at St David’s.
Either luck or planning has hopefully got you here at the right state of the tide. If it is out, walk across the sand. The stream lies towards the far side of the estuary, and a number of well-placed stepping stones allow you to cross without getting your feet wet. Leave the beach by a slipway on the far side and climb away along the St Ishmael’s road. A short distance beyond the houses, take a path over a stile up the wooded bank on the left.
Alternative: HIGH WATER 3.9 miles (6.3km)
The alternative is more protracted, but first wander the short distance down to the water by Ferry Cottage to survey the impossibility of crossing. The name of the house is significant, as at one time a ferryboat operated between the two shores, and would have saved you the long tramp. Unfortunately virtually the entire detour is on the road. Follow the lane towards Herbrandston. After ¾ mile (1.2km) where it bends half-right, take a signed footpath over a stile on the left. Cross the field to emerge in the village beside St Mary’s Church Hall. Turn left and walk through the village to join the main road and continue over Rickeston Bridge towards St Ishmael’s. Eventually a road on the left (signposted Sandy Haven) leads downhill past Sandy Haven Farm. At the end, turn left towards the beach and you will then find the Coast Path leaving the road on the right, just past a limekiln.
If you were lucky enough to be able to cross the estuary, walk up the lane a little further beyond where the path leaves to find is a well-preserved limekiln with its own weighbridge. Behind, higher up the bank, the ruined workman’s cottage lies hidden in the trees.
The way eventually emerges from the trees to follow a field boundary. At the corner, pass back into trees to continue to the mouth of the estuary. Beyond, the way remains on the edge of cultivation along the coast passing Little and Great Castle Heads to reach Watch House Point.
Both Castle Heads were chosen as sites for forts by Iron Age people; mounds were constructed across the base of the promontory in each case to create a defensible position. The mound and ditch at Little Castle is clearly visible. At Great Castle the Coast Path follows the line of the earthwork defence, cutting off the promontory. Two lighthouses once served to guide boats along the Haven, but they have long since gone; their function replaced by navigation beacons and transit towers. The rectangular marker carried on a tall tower just passed, together with the triangular one opposite at Bullwell Bay, are two of the transit towers. The remaining Haven markers will be passed on the Dale peninsula.
The scenery below is fascinating. Impressive but small bays succeed each other, the path in places close to the edge of massive slabs of sandstone rising out of the waters. The field banks beside the path are a mass of flowers in spring and at Lindsway Bay there is a wide sweep of beach below the cliffs.
Watch House Point, looking directly at the open sea through the jaws of the Haven, was chosen for an artillery battery during the First World War. On the hillsides around the point, now much overgrown and partly hidden by gorse and bramble, are the substantial remains of the open-fronted gun shelters.
Beyond Watch House Point the path steadily loses height towards Monk Haven, where it drops into a richly verdant valley, running inland to St Ishmael’s.
An impressive little tower stands sentinel over Monk Haven, but although possessing a Norman arch and lancet windows, it is, in fact, a Victorian folly. The high wall across the beach below is from the eighteenth century and was part of an estate boundary wall.
Hidden by trees, well sheltered and yet easily accessible to the sea, this spot has been a landing from earliest times. An ancient track connected it to the St David’s peninsula and, during the Age of Saints, pilgrims would have given thanks for a safe landing at the little church dedicated to St Ishmael, just up the valley, before continuing their journey on foot to the cathedral city.
Cross Monk Haven, by the wall, or alternatively follow the stream a short distance up the valley, where it can then be crossed along a dam below a small pond. The onward path leaves the western end of the beach, climbing through woodland to the cliff tops and on to Musselwick Point.
Once above the trees there are splendid views across to Dale, nestling in the gentle cleavage of a shallow valley. To the left, on Dale Point, is another of Palmerston’s forts.
From Musselwick Point the path loses height, and a succession of stiles and field paths leads to a farmyard. Walk past the barns and turn left to drop beside a stream to the beach. Follow the beach round to The Gann.
With luck, your timing has again been impeccable and you can ford the stream that drains the marshy area to the north. The crossing is by a short causeway between the high shingle banks on either side. On the opposite bank a clear track across the top of the shingle leads to a small car park and the road. Otherwise you must either wait for the waters to subside or take the inland route. (See Alternative.)
Alternative: HIGH WATER 2.9 miles (4.7km)
If you know the tide is in, instead of dropping to the shore at Musselwick, follow a track to the right, climbing to the top of the field. Over a cattlegrid, follow the boundary at the top of the field left until you reach a stile on the right. Head over the crest of the hill to Slatehill Farm, from where a track continues to a narrow lane by Whiteholme’s Farm. Cross to a signed, although non too obvious track (just to the left) and keep heading north along field paths, eventually reaching a road at Mullock Farm. Turn left down to Mullock Bridge and keep going for a further mile (1.6km) to a roadside car park at Pickleridge, where you rejoin the coastal route.
However, if you have got as far as the river crossing before you discover that the tide is too far in, climb off the shore and go through a field gate back to the right (signposted High Tide Alternative). Follow the field boundary up the hill to a stile at the top and then follow the instructions given above to Slatehill Farm. Alternatively, you can usually take the bridle track upstream beside the river and on to Whiteholme’s Farm, which is slightly shorter and avoids some of the climbing.
The topography at Pickleridge is the result of both natural and human activity. At the end of the last ice age meltwater deposits of sand and gravel choked the valley, creating a marsh behind. During the Second World War, gravel was excavated for the construction of military airfields at Dale, leaving substantial pits, which the sea has since flooded and is slowly refilling with stone as the coastline is gradually pushed inland.
This manipulation of the landscape has produced an environment attractive to wildlife. A large number of birds come to feed in the marshes and take advantage of the sheltered water. Winter is a particularly good time for birdwatching, with many species of ducks, geese and waders being recorded.
Turn left onto the road and follow it into Dale.
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