Backpacker’s Britain – Northern Scotland

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Route 27: Skye – the Trotternish Ridge Traverse

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Number of Days: 2
Total Distance: 54km (33.5 miles)
Daily Distances: Day 1 – 31km (19.25 miles), Day 2 – 23km (14.25 miles)                   
Height Gain: Total: 2810m; Day 1 – 1980m, Day 2 – 830m                                                           
Maps: Ordnance Survey Landranger sheet number 23 North Skye
Starting Point: Start in Portree at the square in the centre of town (grid ref NG483435).
Finishing Point: Finish in Uig down by the pier (grid ref NG385636).

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Area Summary
Until a few years ago the Trotternish Ridge was Skye’s last big secret. Walkers invariably would head for the Black Cuillin, and those with an adventurous streak might find their way into the Red Cuillin, but it was rare indeed to see anyone on the Trotternish hills. Things have changed – coachloads of tourists head up into the Storr Sanctuary every day, and it is the same at the Quiraing at the northern end of the ridge. However,  this does not detract too much from the enjoyment of walking this route – all the hills on either side of the Storr and the Quiraing are still as quiet as ever, and you can get a real sense of being away from it all.

The Trotternish peninsula is the long, north-to-south running arm of land at the northern tip of the island of Skye.  This peninsula has a main road running around the coastal strip, which is also where the villages are. The hinterland is a wonderfully wild area of bizarre hills – almost completely grassy and gentle on their west side, but impressively craggy to the east. From the road north of Portree it looks almost as if this crag is just one very long escarpment. This is magnificent walking country, and on a good day you get superb views across the islands of Rona and Raasay to the east towards the mainland. To the west you can see the Outer Hebrides.

Route Summary
The walk begins by heading north out of Portree along the A855. You soon take to the hills though, and climb the long ridge to the summit of A’ Chorra-bheinn. The ridge continues to the summit of the Storr, and leads you onwards over many minor tops to Beinn Edra. This is a good place to camp for the night.

On Day 2 you continue northwards along the undulating ridge, crossing the minor road just before the Quiraing. Once above the massive pinnacles at the Quiraing you head westwards along the ridge of Creag Collascard and then down into Uig.

The walk is suitable for those with some experience of hill walking, although it is not too tough. The going underfoot is generally grassy, with a bit of heather and rocky terrain, and some of the sections of the ridge have a path to follow.

Tourist Information
The tourist information centre in Portree is on Bridge Street and can book accommodation for you on Skye (tel 01478 612137). You’ll also find a good tourist information centre in Kyle of Lochalsh down by the harbour (tel 01599 534276).

Transport
Citylink buses from either Fort William or Inverness to Portree also continue to Uig where this walk ends (tel 08705 505050, www.citylink.co.uk).

Accommodation and Supplies
There are lots of options in Portree, from hotels, guest houses and bed and breakfasts, to hostels and campsites. Give the tourist information centre a call for advice (tel 01478 612137).

There are shops in Portree and Uig at each end of the walk, but nothing during it.

Overnight Options I usually camp somewhere around the Bealach Uige to the north of Beinn Edra (grid ref NG444642), although there are countless other possibilities along the ridge, with some great high lochans just off the ridge to the east that make wonderful campsites, although some of these can be difficult to get to, because of the escarpment.

Escape Routes
You can get off the Trotternish Ridge at many points, but beware of the cliffs that run intermittently along the east side. Some of these are huge, and need a long detour to get around, but if you pick a sensible route you can always get down to the A855 in that direction. The terrain to the west is gentler, but it is a little further in that direction to the A87.

DAY 1

From the square in the centre of Portree head east to the main road above the harbour. Turn left along this and follow it out of town (signposted to Staffin). After 2km you pass the Portree campsite on the left at a minor road going to Torvaig. Just north of here you can leave the A855 on the left and climb around the little rocky bluff of Creag an Fhithich. This is the start of the long Trotternish Ridge, and you won’t descend off this until you get to Uig later tomorrow.

The ridge of Creag an Fhithich leads easily to the first low hill on the ridge, Pein a’ Chleibh at 293m (marked as 292m on the Landranger maps), and it is beyond this that the walking starts to get really interesting.

Across the Sound of Raasay to the east you should be able to see the hummocky moorland of the northern part of the island of Raasay. Further south along this island you’ll see the flat-topped hill of Dun Caan, the site of an ancient hill fort.

The ridge takes you down into a little col just northwest of the summit of Pein a’ Chleibh, and above this the route onto A’ Chorra-bheinn is quite rocky. Make directly towards the summit, avoiding the odd rocky outcrop as you go. The summit is a fine place for a break at 459m.

Keep an eye out for white-tailed eagles while walking along the ridge. Although these massive raptors had been wiped out in Britain, there have been a number of reintroductions onto the island of Rum in the Small Isles, and these are now doing very well, spreading across the western seaboard of Scotland. The coastal cliffs of Skye are a well-known breeding habitat for these huge birds of prey.

White-tailed eagles, also erroneously but popularly called sea eagles (there is another, different species of eagle that goes under that name), are our biggest bird of prey, having a wing span even greater than that of the golden eagle. Female white-tailed eagles can have a wing span up to 2.5m, while the male is a little smaller.

From the top of A’ Chorra-bheinn descend for a short way to the north and climb just east of north to reach the cliffs ringing the eastern side of the Beinn Mheahonach plateau. Follow these cliffs as a handrail around to the summit, marked as Ben Dearg at 562m. Steep scree slopes are descended to the northeast, then easy ground leads you gently downhill to the first gap on the ridge, the Bealach Mor, or ‘the Big Pass’.

Keeping the cliffs to your right, climb northeastwards and follow the edge of the void around until you’re above the lovely little tarns known as Lochan a’ Bhealaich Bhig. Just beyond this point, where you are directly above the lochans, you drop into the Bealach Beag. where a small stream finds its source. This is in a little bowl, and you can skirt around this to the west to avoid having to descend right into it. Climb northeastwards again, up very steep grassy slopes, until you can gain the wonderful south ridge of the Storr.

The Storr is the main peak of the Trotternish Ridge at 719m. To the east the cliffs continue, and here, detached from the main escarpment, you’ll see a number of fantastic pinnacles, including the huge Old Man of Storr, a great fang of rock with a summit at 535m. Walkers can’t get onto its top though – and it is difficult enough even for rock climbers.

This is another good place to look out for white-tailed eagles, as well as golden eagles, common buzzards and ravens. In summer you might here the piping call of the ring ouzel up here too. This is the mountain variety of the common blackbird, and it is similar to the blackbird apart from having a white chest. It lives only in mountainous regions, and in Britain is a summer-only visitor. It nests on crags and bouldery scree slopes.

North of the Storr a ridge descends into the moors above Rigg. As you don’t want to go down this subsidiary ridge you should aim northwestwards from the summit trig pillar, towards the Bealach a’ Chuirn. The going here is easy and not too steep. Beyond the Bealach a’ Chuirn a short rocky slope takes you to the fine summit of Hartaval at 668m.

Carrying on from Hartaval the ridge bends first northwards, then around to the northwest as you descend to Bealach Hartaval. The next hill on the traverse is Baca Ruadh at 639m, with its smaller top of Sgurr a’ Mhalaidh crossed just before you get to the main summit.

Set off the main ridge slightly is a superb promontory known as Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh Ruadh, and you can get onto this by following the edge of the escarpment around in a big curve, first going northwest, then over to the northeast. The summit stands at 593m, and being set forward on the eastern side of the main ridge there are good views along the escarpment, particularly northwards towards distant Quiraing.

Head back along the promontory to get back on the main ridge, then turn right and climb up to Creag Liath at 609m. Beyond lies the Bealach na Leacaich before the dome-like top of Flasvein at 599m. Along the switchback northwards you drop down into Bealach Chaiplin then onto Groba nan Each at 575m. Northwards again, the two cols known as Bealach Amadal and Bealach Mhoramhain are separated by an unnamed bump at spot height 579m. From Bealach Mhoramhain you are now at the base of the summit ridge of Beinn Edra, the second main peak of the Trotternish Ridge. An easy ridge has a path that leads up to its summit at 611m, where you’ll find an OS trig pillar.

The path continues northwards, keeping the cliffs close by to your right. You’ll probably be thinking of camping soon, so keep your eyes peeled for a good spot. At the Bealach Uige there is fresh water at the head of the Lon Airigh-uige, just off the ridge to the west.

DAY 2

A short and easy climb starts the day as you ascend northwestwards to the top of Druim na Coille at 321m. Continue along the ridge as it dips to Bealach nan Coisichean. Here you are faced with a steep, uniform slope ahead. Keep the edge of the escarpment to your right and climb the short slope to the summit of Bioda Buidhe at 466m.

Beyond Bioda Buidhe the ridge descends yet again, this time to the only road pass on the Trotternish Ridge. A minor road cuts over the ridge here from Uig in the west to Staffin in the east, and if necessary this offers an easy escape route. However, it would be a shame to take it, as you’ve nearly completed the ridge traverse. From the pass a good path heads off northeastwards, and usually has a long stream of tourists plodding towards the Quiraing.

Ignore this path, as it just goes under the cliffs. Instead, head just east of north, across grass and bilberry slopes to gain the top of the cliffs again. You go around the cleft of Maoladh Mor, then skirt the cliffs to get the best views at the amazing pinnacles of the Quiraing. These have wonderful names such as the Prison, the Needle and the Table.

The Table is so flat that it used to be the pitch for games of shinty!

Once you’ve walked around the cliffs to have a good look down on the rock formations and the hundreds of people who will probably be milling about, make your way to the domed summit of Meall na Suiramach at 543m, where you’ll find another OS trig pillar.

Easy slopes of grass lead northwestwards for Sgurr Mor, and from there onwards it’s a change of direction. Turn to the southwest and walk over to Beinn a’ Sga at 414m, crossing a stream to get to this flat summit. Head west a short way to the top of a cliff, then turn southwestwards and handrail along it to a fine gorge holding the stream known as Lon nan Earb.

Cross the stream and walk westwards to Creag Sneosdal above lovely Loch Sneosdal. Another OS trig pillar is passed at Suidh’ a’ Mhinn at 350m, then you turn southwards to gain the ridge of Creag Collascard. Follow this ridge to the little knoll of Reieval.

The view from Reieval is blocked to the east by the grassy slopes of the Trotternish Ridge, but westwards it is marvellous, leading your eye to the long chain of the Western Isles. Northwestwards you’ll pick out the small island group known as the Shiants, the subject of an interesting book by Adam Nicholson. Entitled Sea Room, it describes the history of these fascinating islands, and how Adam came into their possession.

From Reieval follow the broad southwest ridge, passing a tiny lochan, and soon hit the A855 just above the village of Uig. Follow the road downhill into the village and you’ve completed a magnificent traverse of the Trotternish Ridge.