Guidebook describing the Alta Via 2 Trek in Italy's Gran Paradiso and a range of 28 walks from gentle strolls to full scale traverses of the region. The Gran Paradiso is a protected national park. It is accessible from France and northern Italy. A range of deep valleys and passes give excellent walking. Refuge and valley accommodation is plentiful.

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Stage 1

Chardonney to Rifugio Dondena

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Time          2h45 (opposite direction 2h)
Distance    5.8km/3.6 miles
Ascent       738m
Difficulty   Grade 1–2
Maps          FMB ‘Gran Paradiso’ 1:50,000 (except very start) or IGC sheet 3, 1:50,000

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The Alta Via 2 begins amid the beautiful alpine landscapes of Valle di Champorcher. The close-knit local community, with its time-honoured traditions, is descended from herdsmen-settlers from Valle Soana to the south. Two picturesque stories account for the curious name Champorcher: the first concerns San Porciero, a Roman legionary and companion of San Besso (see Walk 27) said to have taken refuge in 302ad near Lago Miserin (Stage 2), where he was inspired to begin preaching. A second story attributes the origin of the name to the pigs once bred in the valley on the fruit of the oak and beech trees that then died out after a dramatic temperature drop in the 16th and 17th centuries.

The starting point Chardonney (nothing to do with the grape but a reference to ‘agglomeration of thistles’) has grocery shops where you can stock up on sargnun a tasty cheese (object of the ‘fêta d’i sargnun’ village festival held late September) which comes fresh, salted or smoked. It is consumed with pane nero, the local rye-bread, these days likely to be freshly baked rather than rock hard according to tradition. It used to be baked only twice a year, leading to the invention of those wooden bread boards with a built-in chopper which you will see on display. A handful of hotels operate (such as Hotel Chardoney Tel 0125 37221 www.hotel-chardoney.com).

Just outside the Gran Paradiso National Park, this initial stage entails a straightforward though steady climb on good paths, including a stretch of one of the king’s old game tracks. Although rather short it does make a good introductory stage, especially appreciated after the rigours of travelling. It could easily be combined with Stage 2, either making an overnight stop at Rifugio Miserin or continuing all the way across Finestra di Champorcher to Rifugio Péradzà in just under 6h.

From Chardonney (1454m) and its cable-car, head uphill to the bridge left across Torrent Ayasse (AV2 signposting) and a stretch of royal game track amidst delicate laburnum trees. Not far up turn right on path n.9, a delightful old path that goes W through pine trees to Pont Ravire (1567m) and across the cascading stream. The path here is true to its name ‘La Scaletta’ or ‘little staircase’ as it climbs steeply on a series of rock slab steps.

A string of summer farms make good landmarks, including the cluster of buildings comprising Créton (1852m), after which the traverse continues W. A further easy climb is rewarded by the lovely sight of Rosa dei Banchi and its snowfield SW, then the parking area and cluster of signposts where the track enters the lush flowered pasture basin of Dondena (2097m), well above the tree line now. The rough road proceeds past huts and old barracks to

2h45 – Rifugio Dondena (2192m) Tel (mobile) 348 2664837, private, sleeps 80, open mid-June to mid-Sept www.rifugidellarosa.it. Although the concrete building bears no resemblance to the royal hunting lodge from which it was converted, all lack of atmosphere is amply compensated for by the hospitality and homestyle cooking, with luck including polenta concia corn meal porridge layered with melted butter and local cheese, along with a tasty roast, possibly rabbit. After-dinner strolls in the dark are best confined to the immediate vicinity of the refuge as this used to be a favourite meeting place for witches. In one episode a newborn baby was spirited away from its cot in the village of Donnas near Hône-Bard, but subsequently rescued by a peasant with the unlikely name of Napolion.