Guidebooks for walkers, mountaineers, trekkers, climbers and cyclists

Discover the Moroccan High Atlas with a Cicerone guide

Cover of Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas
Availability
Published
Published
15 Feb 2011
ISBN
9781852846114
Edition
First
Size
17.2 x 11.6 x 1.6cm
Weight
280g
Pages
192
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Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas

by Des Clark
Book published by Cicerone Press

This handy pocket-sized guidebook contains detailed route descriptions of 50 walks, climbs and scrambles in the Moroccan High Atlas. The routes were written with winter conditions in mind and are suitable for experienced winter mountaineers and walkers. The routes cover 30 peaks and are all above 3000m with the highest being Jbel Toubkai at 4167m.

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Size: 17.2 x 11.6 x 1.6cm
Weight: 280g

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Description

The High Atlas mountains of Morocco have mountaineering potential galore. With 7 major summits over 4000m, and myriad other remote and little-climbed summits, the region offers countless challenges for experienced winter climbers and scramblers looking for adventure.

This guidebook contains full route descriptions for 50 walks, climbs and scrambles on 30 peaks right across the range from Taroudant in the south-west to Midelt in the north-east, all easily accessible from Marrakech airport. Each route is graded by remoteness, navigational difficulty and commitment.

The mountains of the High Atlas seldom drop below 3000m so naturally all the summits and routes are over 3000m, so some mild affects of altitude, such as shortness of breath, may initially be felt, particularly on the 4000m summits. This may affect initial performance, but most people should get used to the altitude in a few days. There are at least seven mountains that reach over 4000m; the highest of these is Jbel Toubkal at 4167m.

While the vast majority of routes in the guidebook can be undertaken in the late spring and autumn, the emphasis is on winter ascents (from early November to mid-April). All the routes in this guidebook assume a certain amount of winter mountain experience on your part, the majority of the routes were written with winter conditions in mind.

This guidebook divides the range into three regions, using two road passes as boundaries, and the routes are described under the following regional sections.

•    west of Tizi n-Test (routes from Taroudant)
•    between Tizi n-Test and Tizi n-Tichka (routes from Imlil and Oukaimeden)
•    east of Tizi n-Tichka (routes from Ait Bougammez, Zawat Ahansal and Midelt)

  • Activities
    scrambling, climbing, walking
  • Seasons
    All routes described can be undertaken in the spring and autumn, but most have been described with a winter ascent in mind.
  • Centres
    Taroudant, Marrakech, Imlil, Oukaimeden, Ait Bougammez, Zawat Ahansal, Midelt
  • Difficulty
    Most of the technical climbing grades fall within the Alpine F- to AD range; also included are the author's own grades for remoteness, navigation and commitment.
  • Must See
    all the 4000m peaks in the High Atlas, including Jbel Toubkal in the central region and Ighil Mgoun in the east, and Jbel Tinergwet, Jbel Awlim and the Tichka plateau in the south-west

Updates

We do not yet have any updates available for this book

We are always grateful to readers for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground. If you would like to send some information to us then please use our Feedback form. They will be published here following review by the author(s).

Contents

Preface

Introduction

European exploration
The Berbers
Language
Local customs and etiquette
Building styles
Plants and flowers
Wildlife
When to go
Money
Visas and permits
Planning and maps
Tourist information
Getting to Morocco
Getting around Morocco
Accommodation
Mules and porters
Local guides
What to take
Health and safety
Communication and navigation aids
Respecting the environment
Using this guide

West of Tizi n-Test

Taroudant

Jbel Tinergwet

1  Jbel Tingerwet south-west ridge
2  Jbel Tingerwet west-north-west ridge

Jbel Awlim

3  Jbel Awlim south-west ridge
4  Jbel Awlim south ridge

Imaradene

5  Imaradene from the east
6  Imaradene from the south and west

Awlim

7  Awlim north-east ridge

Awrir n-Said

8  Awrir n-Said west ridge

Additional routes

Between Tizi n-Test and Tizi n-Tichka

Marrakech
Imlil

Getting to the refuges from Imlil

Traverses between Lepiney and Toubkal refuges

 9  Toubkal refuges via Tizi Aguelzim
10  Toubkal refuges via Tizi n-Tadat
11  Toubkal refuges via Clochetons breche
12  Toubkal refuges via Tizi Melloul and Tizi Afella

Tazaghart

13  Tazaghart via Tizi Melloul
14  Tazaghart Diagonal Couloir
15  Tazaghart Descent Couloir

Biguinoussene

16  Biguinoussene from Tizi n-Tadat
17  Biguinoussene south ridge

Afella

18  Afella via Tizi Melloul
19  Afella via Aougdal Bou Tiouna

Akioud

20  Akioud north-north-west ridge

Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim

21  Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim east ridge from Tizi n-Ouagane
22  Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim north-east couloir
23  Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim north-west ridge

Jbel Toubkal

24  Jbel Toubkal south cwm south col
25  Jbel Toubkal north cwm north col
26  Jbel Toubkal north-east ridge
27  Jbel Toubkal south-west (Ouanoums) ridge
28  Jbel Toubkal south-east ridge

Toubkal West

29  Toubkal West north-east ridge

Imouzzer

30  Imouzzer north cwm north col south-west ridge

Oukaimeden                      
Angour

31  Angour north side ledge
32  Angour west ridge

Anrhemer

33  Anrhemer west ridge

Bou Iguenouane

34  Bou Iguenouane via Amazzer Meqqoren
35  Bou Iguenouane ridge traverse (north to west-south-west)

Aksoual and Azrou n-Tamadot

36  Tizi Likemt to Tizi n-Tagharat traverse

Additional routes

East of Tizi n-Tichka       

Ait Bougammez

Getting to Tarkeddit refuge

37  Tarkeddit refuge from Agouti           
38  Tarkeddit refuge from Sebt Ayt Bou Wlli
39  Tarkeddit refuge from Tondout

Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West

40  Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West from Tarkeddit refuge
41  Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West north-east ridge (traverse)

Oumassin and Aslad

42  Oumassin and Aslad from Tarkeddit refuge

Aklim

43  Aklim from Tarkeddit refuge or Tatrarat

Tarkeddit

44  Tarkeddit ridge – east to west traverse

Zawat Ahansal

Ouaougoulzat

45  Ouaougoulzat west summit
46  Tagafayt

Azurki

47  Azurki north-east to south-west ridge traverse
48  Azurki north face couloirs

Midelt

Jbel Maasker

49  Jbel Maasker via Inifif

Jbel Ayyachi, Sayd ou Addi and Ichichi n-Boukhlib

50  Jbel Ayyachi, Sayd ou Addi and Ichichi n-Boukhlib via the Cirque de Jaffar

Additional routes

APPENDIX A  Further reading
APPENDIX B  Useful words and phrases
APPENDIX C  Route summary table
APPENDIX D  Refuge summary table

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