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Walk 16

Kozjak traverse

Time     6hrs

Distance     13km

Max. altitude     779m

Rating     moderate

Map    There is currently no detailed map available of Kozjak, though SMAND plans to release one in the future (sheet 30). See sketch map.

Transport    The most convenient starting point is the railway station at Kaštel Stari, on the main railway line from Split. Otherwise, take the Trogir bus (number 37) from Split’s local bus station and get out at the stop, by a Kaštel Stari sign, at the point where one of Kaštel’s bell towers is just coming into view on the left. Just beyond this and opposite a signpost to Trogir and the airport (Zracna luka), a road turns off to the right with the now familiar red-and-white trail marking painted on the corner. Following these will bring you to Kaštel Stari station in about 20mins.

A straightforward and fairly flexible day trip, climbing to the ridge from Kaštel Stari before following it SE via the small church at Biranj (631m). The route descends somewhat to PD pod Koludrom (325m), then re-ascends to Koludar, Debelic (710m) and Veli vrj (779m) before descending to the coast road again at Kaštel Sucurac. The section beyond Debelic, known as Pejšin put, is more demanding than the rest of the route, and involves crossing a rocky shelf with the aid of steel pegs and cables – hence the ‘moderate’ rating for a route which is otherwise fairly easy. There are a number of huts along the route (see Appendix B) for those who would prefer to break the trip into two stages, and alternative routes down to the coast for those who want a shorter day trip.

From the railway station at Kaštel Stari cross the railway line, veer right, then continue straight ahead (not right to Sveti Ivan and Sveti Juraj), following the ‘dom’ signs. Ascend a broad, rather grubby track, which eventually narrows, crossing the road twice before contouring the hillside. The path soon veers to the right, leading up the slope to reach the hut (Planinarska kuca Malacka, 477m), 50mins from the railway station.

As is the rule with most planinarska kuca, you will probably find this one locked, and there is no water outside. Orljak (522m) is less than 15mins away to the left.

Continue along the ridge on the trail marked ‘izvor’ (spring), crossing the road and then taking the right fork towards Biranj, passing a number of stone shelters dug into the ground and another hut, and continuing along the cliff top. About 40mins from Malacka the trail arrives at the small church of Sveti Ivan Biranj (631m), which sits perched on the crest of the ridge, surrounded by picnic tables and shady trees. There is a water tap on the wall of the small café, although – as the sign states – its supply its limited (ima malo – ‘there is little’).

Continue past an unsightly rubbish dump on the left and a ruined stone hut, and descend to the point where an unsealed road crosses the ridge. Descending to the right from here will bring you back to the main road and the railway station; the track to the left descends to a sinkhole, some 90mins away. Otherwise, continue straight ahead, following the ridge before descending somewhat to reach Planinarski dom pod Koludrom (325m) in another 90mins, which sits on the slopes below Koludar, the prominent cliff above. From here a trail leads back down to Kambelovac, for those who have had enough.

Ascend steeply from the hut, following the trail to the left of Koludar to gain the top of the ridge in 40mins. Here you will find the small and aptly named Orlovo gnijezdo (meaning ‘eagle’s nest’), a sklonište at 598m. Continue along the ridge for 15mins to Debelic (710m) for more views, before descending on the other side to the section of the route known as Pejšin put, which follows a rocky shelf across the cliff with the aid of steel pegs and cables. Beyond this the route follows the ridge top again, passing the small chapel of Sveti Luka (690m) to reach the highest point on Kozjak, Veli vrj (779m), 20mins beyond the chapel. The peak itself is fenced off. Continue to PD Putalj, a huge hut at 460m, which is open all year – a total of 4hrs from Malacka. From the hut a clear trail leads down to Kaštel Sucurac, and the bus route between Trogir and Split, in 1hr.