Discover the rolling mountains, wild glens and ancient woodlands of Highland Perthshire, where grassy plateaus, broad ridges and deep river valleys stretch between Loch Lomond National Park and the Cairngorms. From the iconic heights of Ben Lawers and Schiehallion to the wild moors of Rannoch and the woodland trails of Big Tree Country, this is a landscape made for adventure and relaxation alike, offering everything from gentle riverside rambles to challenging high-level hikes.

This definitive Cicerone guidebook presents 80 classic routes across Ben Lawers, Rannoch and Atholl, with walks ranging from 3 to 45km (2–28 miles), suitable for most walkers and graded by length and difficulty. Climb 42 Munros, 22 Corbetts and 15 smaller hills; traverse remote passes such as Gaick and Minigaig; and explore tranquil lochs, ancient woodland and the great rivers Tay and Garry.

• Tackle classic summits including Ben Lawers, Beinn a’ Ghlo, Ben Alder and Schiehallion, or enjoy lower-level walks and woodland paths among Perthshire’s distinctive hills and glens.
• Each route features detailed descriptions, with either 1:50,000 OS maps or 1:100,000 Lovell Johns maps, alongside practical notes on access, local transport, accommodation, and facilities in key bases such as Pitlochry, Aberfeldy, Killin, Blair Atholl, and Crieff
• Plan your days with handy route information boxes, summary tables and yellow-boxed suggestions for extensions, short-cuts and route combinations, with comprehensive advice on access during the deer-stalking season across estates from Glen Lyon to Rannoch Moor.
• Notes on each walk highlight distance, estimated time (1 to 13 hours), and key features such as the wild plateaus of Schiehallion, the lochs and moors of Rannoch, or the ancient birch woods of Glen Lyon, with clear guidance on the best seasons: April and May for low-level walks, May to August for Munro summits, and October for golden foliage in the woodlands.
• Routes are divided into 10 geographical sections: Comrie and Crieff, Killin and Glen Lochay, Glen Lyon, Bridge of Orchy, Perth and Dunkeld, Aberfeldy, Tummel and Loch Rannoch, Rannoch Moor, Pitlochry and Blair Atholl, and Drumochter, each with background notes and practical tips.

Set out to explore the gentle grandeur and hidden wildness of Scotland’s ancient heart, where every summit rewards with sweeping views and a true sense of Highland tranquillity. With this comprehensive Cicerone guide, you’ll have everything you need for safe and memorable journeys on foot among the mountains, rivers and woods of Ben Lawers, Rannoch and Atholl.

Walking Ben Lawers, Rannoch and Atholl – Quick Facts

Location: Highland Perthshire – Ben Lawers, Rannoch Moor, Atholl and the south-eastern Grampians
Number of routes: 80 (42 Munros, 22 Corbetts, 15 smaller hills)
Distance: 3–45km (2–28 miles) per route; 1–13 hours
Route type: Mountain and hill walks, woodland and riverside paths, moorland crossings; linear and circular options
Difficulty: Suitable for most walkers; routes graded by length and difficulty
Terrain: Grassy plateaus, rounded ridges, wild moorland, ancient woodland, lochs, rivers, remote passes
Navigation: 1:50,000 or 1:100,000 OS mapping and detailed route descriptions for every walk
Best season: April–August recommended; April–May best for low-level walks, May–August for summits, October for autumn colours
Highlights: Ben Lawers, Schiehallion, Beinn a’ Ghlo, Rannoch Moor, Gaick and Minigaig passes, Big Tree Country
Equipment: Walking boots, layered clothing, map, compass and navigation skills essential
Bases: Perth, Crianlarich, Comrie, Crieff, Aberfeldy, Killin, Dunkeld, Pitlochry, Blair Atholl
Access: Practical information on transport, parking, accommodation and local amenities for every walk

Author Highlight

"The south-eastern chunk of the Grampians, filling the wide space between the Cairngorms and the Lomond-Trossach National Park, forms part of the ancient county of Perthshire. But if you think of Perthshire as little tea-shop towns like Crieff and Aberfeldy, think again. At the back of Blair Atholl you can walk over the tops for four or five days, and when your feet next touch tarmac you’re somewhere north of Aberdeen. In the wilds of Rannoch Moor, your only foothold is a bleached limb of pine, bog-preserved over tens of centuries.” 

- Ronald Turnbull, author of Walking Ben Lawers, Rannoch and Atholl

Map key

Introduction

Jolly green giants

Trees, please!

When to go

Safety in the mountains

Maps

Compass and GPS

Using this guide

PART 1: Comrie and Crieff

1 Meal na Fearna to Ben Vorlich

2 Beinn Dearg

3 Water of Ruchill

4 Comrie: Deil’s Caldron

5 Glen Tarken tracks

6 Ben Chonzie and Auchnafree Hill

7 Crieff, its Knock, and River Earn

8 Glen Almond and the Lochan Slot

PART 2: Killin and Glen Lochay

9 Looking at Loch Tay: Meall Clachach

10 Cam Chreag and Ben Challum 

11 Beinn nan Imirean, Meall Glas

12 The Tarmachans

Summit summary: Ben Lawers

13 Edramucky Burn

14 Up and down from the Lairig road

15 Lawers Four from Lawers village

16 The Cat’s Bowl (descent)

17 Down via Beinn Ghlas to Lawers village (descent)

18 Glen Lyon: Da-Eig Circuit

PART 3: Glen Lyon

19 Carn Mairg from Fortingall

20 Back of Schiehallion


21 The Black Crag of Glen Lyon

22 Beinn Dearg and the Mairgs

23 Meall Ghaordaidh from Glen Lyon

24 Around Loch an Daimh

25 Beinn Heasgarnich and Creag Mhor

PART 4: Bridge of Orchy

Summit summary: Beinn Dorain

26 Beinn a’ Chaisteal and Beinn nam Fuaran

27 Beinn Mhanach, the Monk

28 Dorain and Dothaidh from the back

29 Bridge of Orchy to Beinn Dorain, Beinn an Dothaidh

30 Beinn Mhanach long crossing

31 Rannoch Edge: Chreachain and Achaladair

32 Beinn an Dothaidh from Achallader

33 The Lyon side: Chreachain, Achaladair, Mhanach

PART 5: Perth and Dunkeld

34 Perth and Kinnoull Hill

35 Dunkeld, Birnam Hill and the Tay

36 Tracks to Loch Skiach

37 Craig Lochie

PART 6: Aberfeldy

38 Farragon Hill from Strathtay

39 Aberfeldy: Rob and Rabbie

40 Aberfeldy and the Tay

41 Kenmore and the Tay

42 Falls of Acharn

43 Falls of Acharn to Creag an Sgliata

44 Creagan na Beinne and Ardtalnaig

45 Creag Uchdag

PART 7: Tummel and Loch Rannoch

46 Schiehallion end to end

47 Schiehallion Foot: Limestone and McGregor’s Cave

48 Craig Varr and Kinloch Rannoch

49 Beinn a’ Chuallaich

50 Black Wood of Rannoch

Summit summary: Ben Alder

51 Walk in to Benalder Cottage

52 Ben Alder from Benalder Cottage

53 Benalder Cottage to Culra Bothy via Beinn Bheoil

54 Benalder Cottage to Culra Bothy via Bealach Beithe (and in reverse)

55 Walk/ride in to Culra Bothy

56 Long Leachas from Culra Bothy

57 Short Leachas from Culra Bothy

58 Ben Alder to Bealach Breabag (descent)

PART 8: Rannoch Moor

59 The Road to the Isles

60 Two Munros and Beinn Pharlagain

61 Meall Buidhe and Cam Chreag

62 Tracks to the Foxes Bog

63 Leagag

PART 9: Pitlochry and Blair Atholl

64 Pitlochry and its loch

65 Ben Vrackie and River Garry

66 Blair Castle to Glen Tilt

67 Glen Tilt and Carn a’ Chlamain

68 Old Bridge of Tilt to Dearg, Mheadhonach

69 Bruar Falls and Glen Banvie

70 Bruar Falls and Blair

Summit summary: Beinn a’ Ghlo

71 Around Beinn a’ Ghlo (with optional ascent of Ben Vuirich)

72 Beinn a’ Ghlo from Loch Moraig

73 Carn nan Gabhar north ridge to Glen Tilt (descent)

74 Glen Tilt to Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain by Carn Torcaidh

PART 10: Drumochter

The Atholl Passes

75 Glen Tilt

76 Minigaig Pass to Glen Feshie

77 Minigaig Pass the ancient way

78 Gaick Pass

79 A’ Bhuidheanach Bheag by the Crooked Corrie

80 Udlamains and the Sow

Appendix A Route summary table

Appendix B Access (especially in the stalking season)

Appendix C Shops, accommodation and transport

Seasons

April to August for all routes, with April and May the best of all; autumn is great under the trees, but not necessarily on the hills with gales and rain fairly common and some stalking season restrictions mid-August to 21 October; winter is good for the low-level routes and can also be magnificent on the high mountains for those suitably experienced and equipped

Centres

Comrie, Crieff, Aberfeldy, Killin, Dunkeld, Pitlochry, Blair Atholl

Difficulty

Routes are graded low/medium/mountain and for difficulty from 1 (clear smooth paths with no steep sections) to 5 (featureless plateau requiring compass bearings in mist or pathless forest; heather tramping; remote high ground; long, steep rough ascents and descents; rocky ground and easy scrambling). No serious scrambling.

Must See

Ben Lawers, Schiehallion, Beinn a' Ghlo; historic passes through the wilds of Atholl; Perthshire's 'big tree country' at Birnam Wood, under the Birks of Aberfeldy, at Fortingall's ancient yew tree; the great rivers Garry and Tay

May 2022

Walk 12 - the Tarmachans

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