A guidebook to walking Japan’s UNESCO-listed Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails, covering the Nakahechi, Choishimichi/Koyasan and Kohechi routes, as well as a Hongu loop, highlights of the Iseji route and shorter walks around Kumano Sanzan shrines. Since many of the trails involve steep ascents and descents, a moderate level of fitness is required.

Routes vary from 5 to 64km (3–40 miles) and crisscross the mountainous Kii Peninsula, south of Osaka. Some can be enjoyed in a single day or half-day, whereas the Nakahechi and Kohechi routes lend themselves to a 4-day mini-trek. Spring and late autumn are best for the trails, although the Nakahechi can be walked year-round.

• 1:50,000 mapping plus larger-scale maps for key towns and the main shrines
• Detailed information on public transport, accommodation and refreshments
• Advice on planning and preparation
• Fascinating insights into Japanese culture and spirituality
• GPX files available to download

Overview maps
Map key
Route summary tables

Introduction
History
Japanese spirituality
The pilgrimage trails
Dual Pilgrim status
Wildlife
Group travel or independent?
Getting there
Getting around
When to go
Accommodation
Food and drink
Money
Post, phones and internet
Language
Cultural etiquette
Hiking in Japan
What to take
Luggage transfers
Waymarking
Maps and GPS
Staying healthy and safe
Using this guide

The three grand shrines and Koyasan
Kumano Hongu Taisha
Kumano Hayatama Taisha
Kumano Nachi Taisha
Koyasan

Hongu and surrounding area
Route 1    Hongu loop walk (including Dainichi-goe and Akagi-goe)

Nakahechi 中辺路
Route 2    Nakahechi route
Stage 1    Takijiri to Nonaka
Stage 2    Nonaka to Kumano Hongu Taisha
Stage 3    Kogumotori-goe route: Ukegawa to Koguchi
Stage 4    Ogumotori-goe route: Koguchi to Kumano Nachi Taisha

Koyasan 高野山 – Choishimichi 町石道
Route 3    Choishimichi route

Kohechi 小辺路
Route 4    Kohechi route
Stage 1    Koyasan to Omata
Stage 2    Omata to Miura-guchi
Stage 3     Miura-guchi to Yanagimoto-bashi suspension bridge
Stage 4    Yanagimoto-bashi suspension bridge to Kumano Hongu Taisha

Iseji highlights 伊勢路
Route 5    Magose-toge Pass
Route 6    Matsumoto-toge Pass

Appendix A    Facilities tables
Appendix B    Glossary
Appendix C    Useful contacts
Appendix D    Further reading

Seasons

Spring and late autumn are best, although the Nakahechi can be walked year-round. Summer is humid and wet. Expect snow in winter at higher elevations such as Koyasan, and a dusting at lower altitudes.

Centres

Tanabe, Hongu, Shingu, Nachisan, Nachi-Katsuura, Koyasan, Owase, Kumano

Difficulty

No specialist equipment is required on any of these trails, however sturdy hiking shoes/boots, trekking poles, wet-weather gear and a good level of fitness are necessary. The Kohechi is a mountain trail recommended for experienced hikers only. Many of the trails feature moss-covered flagstone paths, intricate tree roots and steep ascents and descents.

Must See

The three grand shrines of Kumano, Koyasan spiritual complex, coastal views from Gotobiki-iwa rock and Funami-chaya teahouse remains, the Hyakken-gura sea of mountains, Obako-toge summit, Hatenashi settlement, historic ishitatami flagstone paths, traditional Japanese inns, delicious local cuisine, hot-spring bathing

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