Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas

Tafroute and Jebel el Kest

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Availability
Published
ISBN
9781852844127
Published
1 Feb 2004
Edition
First
Pages
192
Size
17.2 x 11.6 x 1.5cm
Weight
210g

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Guidebook includes climbing routes on 25 immense crags on the south side of Morocco's Jebel el Kest, 120km south-east of Agadir, based from Tafroute. The superb rock conditions on the pink quartzite rock provide excellent and adventurous rock climbing routes of up to 500 metres high across all grades.

Seasons Seasons
All months except May to October when temperatures are too hot to contemplate climbing and walking; November and December are the “wet season”.
Centres Centres
Access is through Agadir, the climbing is based from the pleasant town of Tafroute.
Difficulty Difficulty
These routes are remote and long trad climbs in a wild environment. Many of the climbs are mid-grade. But there is no rescue so be prepared and equipped properly.
Must See Must See
Massive walls of barely climbed rock!
Availability
Published
ISBN
9781852844127
Published
1 Feb 2004
Edition
First
Pages
192
Size
17.2 x 11.6 x 1.5cm
Weight
210g
  • Overview

    Climbing in the Anti-Atlas offers routes on crags on the south side of Jebel el Kest, 120km south-east of Agadir and close to the oasis town of Tafroute. Here the superb rock conditions on the pink quartzite rock of Jebel provide excellent rock climbing of up to 500 metres in height in all grades. This guide gives comprehensive coverage of approximately 25 crags, mostly unexplored by any climber.

    However, it is not a place for the novice. Many of the crags are complex, and route finding can be difficult. Descents occasionally involve abseils and down-climbing in exposed situations. The weather is rarely inclement and, even when it is, it is unlikely to involve electrical storms.

  • Contents
    Crag Location Maps

    Introduction
    Maps
    The Anti-Atlas Mountains
    When to go
    Getting there
    Where to stay
    Food, Drink and Money
    Communications
    Medical
    Emergencies
    Clothing and Footwear
    The people
    Geology and Geography
    Fauna and Flora

    Walking
    Map indicating location of walks

    The Climbing
    History of the Climbing
    Crag Names
    Approaches
    Route Grades
    Route Length
    The Granite Climbing
    Climbing in the Ameln Valley
    Climbing on the north side of Jebel el Kest

    Using the guide

    Some suggested routes

    The Routes on the Quartzite
    Crag A – Anergui
    Crag AX – Anergui
    Crag B – Igordan
    Crag C – Tamalont
    Crag D – Tagdicht
    Crag DX – Tagdicht
    Crag E – Yazult
    Crag F – Yazult
    Crag G – Assgaour
    Crag H – Assgaour
    Crag HX – Assgaour
    Crag J – Assgaour
    Crag K – Assgaour
    Crag L – Assgaour
    Crag LX – Assgaour
    Crag M – Assgaour
    Crag N – Oumsnat
    Crag O – Oumsnat
    Crag P – Oumsnat
    Crag Q – Oumsnat
    Crag R – Tizgut
    Crag RX – Aguchtim
    Crag S – Tizgut
    Crag T – Tizgut
    Crag Y – Tighalt
    Crag U – Tighalt
    Crag V – Tighalt
    Crag W – Tifghlte

    Climbing on the North Side
    Crag NA – Sidi M Zal
    Crag NB – Sidi M Zal
    Crag NC – Sidi M Zal
    Crag ND – Sidi M Zal
    Crag NE – Aseldrar

    Appendix A: Further Information
    Appendix B: Accommodation:Contact Details
    Appendix C: Summary of Routes

  • Maps

    Good maps of Morocco are difficult to obtain. While the whole of the Atlas and Anti-Atlas have been mapped at 1:100,000 scale (published in 1970),  the detail of names of passes, peaks, contours and spot heights on these maps is often inaccurate. However, they are generally adequate for the purposes of walking. Whether these are, and will be, consistently available to those wanting to visit the country and its mountains is another matter.

    Stanfords (website: www.stanfords.co.uk) is likely to stock a set of four copied 1:100,000 maps that covers the Toubkal area – those for the Anti-Atlas are more difficult to locate but it is worth asking. Other sources include the Map Shop (tel: 0800 085 40 80, website: www.themapshop.co.uk), Atlas Maps (tel/fax: 01592 873546 from June to February). Hamish Brown’s Atlas Mountains Information Services may be able to aid you with specific queries (see Appendix A for contact details).

    The maps in this guide reflect the area to the south of Jebel el Kest and the Ameln valley (none of the north are available and the descriptions of the area are considered adequate for access purposes). The maps of the Ameln valley are sketch maps taken from a map in the Amandiers hotel and are only intended to give an idea of the area and to help in planning your trip.

  • Updates
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    Updates

    A great many new routes that have been done (there are quite a number) have in substantial part been done by climbers who have not been associated with the original team members. (The guide book has certainly resulted in many people visiting the area). Their routes have in part been recorded in a large book that is kept at Les Amandier Hotel in Tafrout. These records are often simple text with no photo.

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Davies Claude

Claude Davies

Claude Davies was born in Taxal, Derbyshire, and started climbing in 1952. Since then he has continued to climb extensively in the UK, particularly his local crags in Derbyshire. Upon retirement in 1994, Claude has been able to indulge his desire to climb and has made repeated trips to Morocco to explore opportunities in the Anti-Atlas. He is a member of the Alpine Club and a former vice president of the Climbers Club.

View Guidebooks by Claude Davies