Contents
Introduction
Walking the GR5
Alpine Traverses
Who Walks the GR5?
Route Outline
North–South/South–North
Timings
Waymarking
GR5 Geology
Alpine Flowers
Alpine Wildlife
Alpine Farming
Pastous
Language
Travel to the Alps
Travel Around the Alps
Services on the GR5
Accommodation
Food and Drink
Telephones
Path Conditions
Alpine Weather
When to Walk the GR5
Kit Check
Maps
Currency and Costs
Emergencies
Key Points
STAGE 1 La Léman to Les Houches
Day 1 St Gingolph to La Chapelle d’Abondance (direct route)
Day 1 Thonon-les-Bains to Chevenoz (alternative Day 1)
Day 2 Chevenoz to La Chapelle d’Abondance (alternative Day 2)
Day 3 La Chapelle d’Abondance to Chésery
Day 4 Chésery to Samoëns
Day 5 Samoëns to Refuge de Moëde Anterne
Day 6 Refuge de Moëde Anterne to Les Houches
STAGE 2 Les Houches to Landry
Day 7 Les Houches to Les Contamines
Day 7a Les Houches to Les Contamines (high-level route)
Day 8 Les Contamines to Plan de la Lai
Day 9 Plan de la Lai to Landry
STAGE 3 Landry to Modane
GR5 Route
Day 10 Landry to Refuge d’Entre-le-Lac
Day 11 Refuge d’Entre-le-Lac to Val d’Isère
Day 12 Val d’Isère to Bessans
Day 13 Bessans to Refuge du Plan du Lac
Day 14 Refuge du Plan du Lac to Le Montana
Day 15 Le Montana to Modane/Fourneaux
GR55 High-level route (Refuge d’Entre-le-Lac to Modane)
Day 11 Refuge d’Entre-le-Lac to Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux
Day 12 Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux to Roc de la Pêche
Day 13 Roc de la Pêche to Modane/Fourneaux
GR5E Low-level route (Bonneval-sur-Arc to Modane)
Day 13 Bonneval-sur-Arc to Lanslevillard
Day 14 Lanslevillard to Bramans
Day 15 Bramans to Modane/Fourneaux
STAGE 4 Modane to Ceillac
Day 16 Modane/Fourneaux to Refuge du Thabor
Day 17 Refuge du Thabor to Plampinet
Day 17a La Vallée Étroite to Plampinet (GR5B alternative)
Day 18 Plampinet to Briançon
Day 18a Névache to Briançon (GR5C alternative)
Day 19 Briançon to Brunissard
Day 20 Brunissard to Ceillac
STAGE 5 Ceillac to Auron
Day 21 Ceillac to La Barge/Maljasset
Day 22 La Barge/Maljasset to Larche
Day 23 Larche to Bousieyas
Day 24 Bousieyas to Auron
STAGE 6 Auron to Nice – GR5
Day 25 Auron to Refuge de Longon
Day 26 Refuge de Longon to St Dalmas
Day 27 St Dalmas to Utelle
Day 28 Utelle to Aspremont
Day 29 Aspremont to Nice
STAGE 7 St Dalmas to Garavan/Menton – GR52
Day 27 St Dalmas to Le Boréon
Day 28 Le Boréon to Refuge de Nice
Day 29 Refuge de Nice to Refuge des Merveilles
Day 30 Refuge des Merveilles to Camp d’Argent
Day 31 Camp d’Argent to Sospel
Day 32 Sospel to Garavan/Menton
Appendix 1 Route Summary – North to South
Appendix 2 Route Summary – South to North
Appendix 3 Accommodation List
Appendix 4 Basic French for the GR5
Sept 2019
Day 19 - Yurt accommodation is available at La Yourte des Ayes between the Chalets des Ayes and Chalets de Vers le Col is closed due to mudslides occurring last week.
Aug 2019
Day 1 - Thonon les Bains to La Chapelle d'Abondance
The Chalet de Bise has been completely renovated and now trades as the Refuge de Bise, offering food, drink and accommodation. For reservations, tel 06 70 95 17 06, or in summer tel 09 88 28 78 73. These telephone numbers replace the one listed in Appendix 3.
Day 18 and Day 18A - Plampinet to Briançon
A recent red and white flashed route is now available from Plampinet to Col de Granon. Using this route allows trekkers to walk both the GR5B and GR5C between Nevache and Briançon.
Appendix 3 - Accommodation List
The following changes should be made.
Day 1 - Hotel Le Clozet, tel 04 50 70 67 62 and 06 42 10 84 91.
Day 19 - Chalets des Ayes, La Yourte des Ayes, tel 07 68 40 15 85. Brunissard, Camping L'Izoard, tel 06 33 33 98 12.
Sept 2018
Day 19 - Yurt accommodation is available at La Yourte des Ayes, tel 07 68 40 15 85, between the Chalets des Ayes and Chalets de Vers le Col.
April 2018
Accommodation changes
Day 19 - Shortly before reaching Brunissard, Camping l'Izoard offers a range of camping options, food and drink, tel 06 33 33 98 12.
April 2017
Accommodation changes
Day 1 - Novel - The telephone numbers of the Hotel Le Clozet are now 04 50 70 67 62 and 06 42 10 84 91.
An ideal companion for an alpine trek on the GR5.
The author of Cicerone's Trekking the GR5 Trail is none other than Paddy Dillon, a prolific writer of guidebooks, who has written 30 books for Cicerone. Obviously writing walking guides means that Paddy is also an experienced walker and indeed he has walked all of Britain's National Trails at some point; so you know you're in safe hands with his guidance.
Paddy begins the book by reassuring the readers that "every summer thousands of walkers embark on this trek ... and complete the journey without any problems" and "that the route .. is one that can be completed by averagely fit, experienced hill walkers." He goes on to amusingly describe the different type of characters and family groups that you may come across on walking the GR5, clearly remembering his own experiences. He makes more reassurances with regard to attempting the GR5 Trail: "on a clear day .. a half hour flight between Geneva and Nice reveals the whole route, with its long valleys and convenient passes between high mountains" and describes how the route can be broken up into stages.
The introduction has all the useful information you would expect from a Cicerone guidebook, including geology, flora and fauna, kit and what to do in an emergency. There's some useful jogs to your memory of things you may not know or not thought of in terms of trip preparations. The Trail is broken up into up to 32 day stages with various alternative routes. The guidebook describes some scenic variant routes, including the stunning GR55 through the Vanoise National Park and the delightful GR52 that crosses the Mercantour National Park.
If you are accustomed to the Cicerone style of layout you'll be pleased to see that this is no different. Each day has the distance, ascent, descent, time, map required, nature of terrain, food and drink and accommodation at the beginning as well as a separate walk summary followed by the walk description. As usual the additional details or descriptions of views are added in the margin leaving the walking description uncluttered by its addition. Each day's walk is also further broken down with timings, very useful as a check to where you are or should be by a certain time, although as Paddy points out, the timings are to some extent meaningless as there will be walkers who go faster than others, but "use them as a guide while assessing your progress."
There are many photographs in the book, in fact on nearly every other page, along with snippets of maps which include all the place names mentioned in the descriptions, so there is plenty of reference information to check your location and progress. The appendix has a route summary, useful for planning especially with a south to north route as well as the north to south. Plus also there's an accommodation list and some basic French.
If you are ever buying a walking guidebook, it is usually preferable to purchase an up to date version in case of route changes. Cicerone's website will also have updates when changes are known to them. This is a 2016 edition which has been fully updated. In this guidebook, Paddy Dilllon follows the usual successful Cicerone template and in his walking guide gives a lightness of touch which gives just enough opinion and personal description where it matters combined with those all important factual pointers to keep you on track.
High Mountain Holidays, March 2016
How lucky is Paddy Dillon? Not only does he get to write guidebooks about his travels but he gets to revisit and update those guides. In this third edition, which I'm guessing is Paddy's third traverse of the GR5, he gets to refine his already excellent guide. The style of the guidebook has remained the same; if it's not broken, why fix it?
Irish Mountain Log, Spring 2016
