Walking on the Amalfi Coast: a complete planning guide

What is Walking on the Amalfi Coast?

Walking on the Amalfi Coast by Gillian Price is a day-walk collection covering one of the world's most celebrated coastlines and its neighbouring islands. The 32 routes are divided across five geographic areas: Ischia, Capri, Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi. Together they give comprehensive coverage of the walking possibilities across the whole peninsula and islands, from volcanic craters on Ischia and cliff-edge paths on Capri to the famous Sentiero degli Dei above Positano and the wooded valleys behind Amalfi.

The walks make use of a heritage network of mule tracks, pilgrim routes, and ancient stepped ways that links the villages dotted across the mountainous peninsula. On many occasions the paths are walkers-only, crossing flowered hillsides thick with Mediterranean plants, wild orchids, and lush green woods. On others, routes are shared with herders, farmers, and mules loaded with firewood or freshly harvested lemons.

Now in its fourth edition, this is the definitive English-language walking guide to the region. Every single walk is accessible by public transport, whether ferry, bus, train, cable car, or chair lift, making it equally well suited to visitors based in a single town and those moving along the coast. For complete route descriptions and sketch maps for all 32 walks, see the Cicerone Walking on the Amalfi Coast guidebook.

The 32 walks at a glance

The guidebook divides the walks into five geographic sections, each with its own introductory section covering local transport, accommodation, and practical information.

Ischia (Walks 1–4) covers the volcanic island west of Naples, its mountainous interior explored across four walks including an ascent of the panoramic peak Monte Epomeo, a traverse of old craters and fumarole steam vents, and a gentler circuit through agricultural landscapes. Ischia is less visited than Capri and makes an excellent quiet base.

Capri (Walks 5–8) covers four routes on the limestone island, including the cliffside Sentiero dei Fortini from the lighthouse to the Grotta Azzurra, the ascent of Monte Solaro, the Villa Jovis loop above Capri town, and the Arco Naturale and Faraglioni circuit. Despite the island's enormous popularity, the walking paths are rarely crowded.

Sorrento (Walks 9–17) is the longest chapter, with nine routes covering the full width of the Sorrento peninsula from the cable car summit of Monte Faito to the westernmost tip at Punta Campanella. This section includes the most demanding walk in the book: Walk 9, a circuit from the Monte Faito cable car at 530m ascent/descent, graded 2–3.

Positano (Walks 18–23) covers six routes in the most scenically dramatic section of the coast, including the world-famous Sentiero degli Dei (Walk 20) from Bomerano down to Positano, village-to-village traverses above the coast, and the Furore Fjord.

Amalfi (Walks 24–32) covers nine walks in the eastern section, ranging from the wooded Valle delle Ferriere to the hilltop Santuario dell'Avvocata, with routes based from Amalfi, Ravello, Minori, and Maiori. Walk 31, the ascent to the Santuario dell'Avvocata, involves the greatest ascent in this section at 860m.

Who is Walking on the Amalfi Coast suitable for?

Walking on the Amalfi Coast caters for a wide range of abilities. Several Grade 1 routes, including Walk 3 (Maronti to Sant'Angelo on Ischia) and Walk 14 (Sant'Agata to Massa Lubrense on the Sorrento peninsula), are well suited to beginners and families looking for a gentle half-day out with spectacular coastal scenery. The majority of routes are at Grade 2, requiring a reasonable level of fitness but no technical experience.

The Grade 3 route, Walk 6 (Over Monte Solaro on Capri, 460m/560m ascent/descent), and the Grade 2–3 routes in the Sorrento section involve sustained ascent and are best reserved for walkers with a good level of hill-walking experience. Walk 31 (Santuario dell'Avvocata) at 860m ascent is the most physically demanding in the book, graded 2+.

The guidebook is particularly well suited to visitors spending a week or more in one of the main coast towns, taking a different walk each day by public transport. Sorrento and Amalfi are the best-connected bases for the widest range of walks.

A note on the terrain: these are largely stepped paths rather than mountain tracks, and can be knee-testing on descent. Trekking poles are recommended for the longer ascents.

How difficult are the walks?

The guidebook uses a three-grade system. Grade 1 routes are easy strolls on mostly flat ground, suitable for all. Grade 2 routes are a little strenuous, with reasonable distances and climbs/drops; a basic level of fitness is required. Grade 3 routes may involve orientation challenges, exposure, or arduous stretches; experience and extra care are recommended.

The majority of the 32 walks fall at Grade 2. The shortest and easiest walks are concentrated in the Capri (Walk 8, 4km, Grade 1–2) and Sorrento sections (Walk 10, 3km, Grade 1–2). The most demanding are Walk 9 on Monte Faito (530m ascent, Grade 2–3), Walk 31 to the Santuario dell'Avvocata (860m ascent, Grade 2+), and Walk 6 over Monte Solaro on Capri (Grade 3). Waymarking is inconsistent across the region, so directions need to be followed carefully on most routes.

When is the best time to walk on the Amalfi Coast?

The Amalfi Coast, Sorrento peninsula, and the islands are beautiful destinations at any time of year, though spring and autumn offer the best conditions for walking.

• Spring (March to June) is the finest season: mild temperatures, brilliant green vegetation, and an extraordinary array of wildflowers including orchids, gladiolus, poppies, and broom. The paths are at their most rewarding and the crowds have not yet arrived in full force.
• Summer (July to August) brings high temperatures and peak visitor numbers. The coast is at its busiest, accommodation needs to be booked well in advance, and the ascent routes can be hot. Sea breezes help along the cliffs, and Capri averages a modest 23°C even at the height of summer. Early morning starts are advisable.
• Autumn (September to October) is an excellent alternative: crystal clear skies, ripe figs and grapes, russet colours in the woodland, and quieter paths. Temperatures are comfortable and the light is exceptional for photography.
• Winter (November to February) offers few other visitors and low-season prices, but strong winds and stormy conditions are possible. Ferry services are reduced, and some accommodation and restaurants close for extended periods. Cold snaps are short-lived in this part of the southern Mediterranean.

Italian public holidays bring sharp increases in traffic, accommodation prices, and visitor numbers: avoid Easter, Ferragosto (15 August), and the other national holidays if possible.

What accommodation is available on the Amalfi Coast?

The region offers a wide range of accommodation from multi-starred hotels to simple B&Bs, covering the full price spectrum. The guidebook includes suggestions in the low to medium price range within each of the five section introductions.

The best-connected bases for the widest range of walks are Sorrento, well served by the Circumvesuviana railway and ferries to Naples, Capri, and Ischia, and Amalfi, the hub for local and long-distance bus routes along the coast. Positano and Praiano are quieter alternatives for the central section. On the islands, both Ischia Porto and Capri town have a good range of mid-range options.

Advance booking is strongly recommended in high season, particularly in Capri, Positano, and Amalfi, where demand significantly outstrips supply. A deposit is generally required. Out of season, negotiating lower rates is often possible, but check that your chosen accommodation will be open.

How do I get to the Amalfi Coast?

Naples Capodichino airport is the main gateway, situated 7km northeast of the city with frequent bus connections to the centre and a direct shuttle service to Sorrento. Mainline trains from Rome arrive at Napoli Centrale, next to the Napoli Garibaldi station for the Circumvesuviana railway, which takes approximately one hour to travel around the Gulf of Naples to Sorrento.

From Naples, fast ferries to Sorrento, Capri, and Ischia depart from Molo Beverello; passenger and vehicle ferries sail from nearby Calata Porto di Massa. Both are around 20 minutes by bus or on foot from the central station. Salerno, at the eastern end of the Amalfi Coast, is another useful arrival point served by mainline trains.

Getting around the coast and islands is straightforward by public transport. Buses, ferries, trains, and a cable car on Monte Faito are all used in the guidebook. Every single walk starts and finishes at a public transport stop, and the region is best explored without a hire car: coast roads are extremely narrow, parking is scarce, and private vehicles are not permitted on Capri.

What are the highlights of walking on the Amalfi Coast?

• Sentiero degli Dei (Walk 20) is the most famous walking route on the coast, a traverse from the plateau village of Bomerano above Agerola descending to the lower Positano waterfront with extraordinary views along the length of the Amalfi Coast. The name, meaning Path of the Gods, needs no further explanation.
• Monte Solaro on Capri (Walk 6) is the highest point on the island at 589m, reached on foot from Due Golfi with sweeping views across both gulfs and as far as Vesuvius on a clear day. The chair lift from Anacapri provides an alternative return.
• Sentiero dei Fortini on Capri (Walk 5) follows the cliffside path along the northwestern coast of the island from the lighthouse at Faro to the Grotta Azzurra, passing three Aragonese watchtowers perched on the cliffs above the sea.
• Valle delle Ferriere (Walk 24) is the most rewarding inland walk near Amalfi, a long wooded valley sheltering the rare giant chain fern Woodwardia radicans, whose fronds can reach three metres in length. The route continues into the upper Valle delle Ferriere nature reserve.
• Monte Epomeo on Ischia (Walk 1) is the panoramic summit of the volcanic island, at 787m offering views across the Gulf of Naples to Vesuvius and the Phlegraean Fields. The traverse from Fontana to Il Capizzo is the longest walk in the Ischia section.
• Punta Campanella (Walks 11–13) is the westernmost tip of the Sorrento peninsula and one of the most atmospheric locations in the guide, with ancient Greek and Roman remains and views across to Capri just 5.5km offshore.

About Gillian Price, guidebook author

Gillian Price has trekked throughout Asia and the Himalayas, but now lives in Venice and is exploring the mountains and flatter bits of Italy. Starting in the Italian Dolomites, Gillian has written outstanding Cicerone guides to walking all over Italy as well as Corsica and Corfu. An adamant promoter of public transport to minimise environmental impact, Gillian belongs to Mountain Wilderness and is an active member of the Venice branch of CAI, the Italian Alpine Club. Check her out at www.gillianprice.eu.