The North Downs Way - A Walker's Guidebook
The North Downs Way
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Section 5: Westerham Hill to Wrotham
Distance: 13¾miles (22km)
Maps: Harveys North Downs Way West 1:40,000; OS Landranger 188 Maidstone & The Weald of Kent 1:50,000; OS Explorer 147 Sevenoaks & Tonbridge 1:25,000
Accommodation: Knockholt, Chevening (+ ½ mile), Dunton Green, Otford, Kemsing Youth Hostel (+ ½ mile), Wrotham Refreshments: Knockholt, Knockholt Pound, Dunton Green, Otford, Wrotham
This is a walk of three parts. Between Westerham Hill and Turvin’s Farm east of Chevening much of the route is among arable farmland, and with the scarp slope hidden by trees one forms little indication that the path is actually journeying along the Downs – although when it does come to true downland the short-cropped turf is springy and rich in wild flowers. Then with the crossing of that open basin of land where the little River Darent makes its break through the Downs north of Sevenoaks, the North Downs Way is forced to tread tarmac around Dunton Green, and after a brief oasis of field and meadow, returns to tarmac again for the walk through Otford. But after climbing out of Otford and a short spell among woods, the downland nature of the walk is restored, and broad panoramas once more reward the miles.
Note: Should the distance between Westerham and Wrotham be a little farther than you’d prefer for a single section of the walk, either Otford or Kemsing would make a convenient alternative end to this stage.
From the A233 above Westerham cross with care to a stile on the east side which gives access to a large open field where you turn left and walk up the headland. Note that the oak finger posts on the North Downs Way in Surrey have now given way to the green metal posts of Kent. On gaining the top corner of the field maintain direction among trees and scrub, eventually emerging in the top corner of a second large field. Again turn left and follow the boundary with long views across the Holmesdale Valley. Before reaching the end of the field the way curves up some steps among trees. Over a stile continue up a grass slope to another stile, and maintain direction through woodland. On meeting a track bear right, and this will bring you to a steeply sloping meadow high above Pilgrim House. The way takes you across the head of the slope to a stile right of a field gate, and onto a track. Follow the left-hand boundary of the next field, at the top of which you find yourself on the very crest of the Downs (Grid ref: 449567).
Remain within the field and head to the right along the top boundary. In the far corner a double stile takes you into a narrow meadow where you wander ahead, but halfway along the boundary look for a stile on the left – this is almost hidden in the hedge. Over this turn right on a hedge-lined path. When it forks bear left and cross yet another stile, then along the continuing path through a patch of sparse woodland. The way curves round a hollow and along a line of mature trees.
On coming to a stile on the woodland edge do not cross, but turn sharply to the right and follow the line of a fence across a meadow. On the far side bear left over another stile and walk along the edge of a series of adjoining fields parallel with a country lane, until you emerge to a junction of narrow roads (Grid ref: 458574). Cross directly ahead to enter another field and maintain direction. Brasted Hill Farm can be seen off to the right. On the far side cross another narrow road and continue on the left-hand edge of a small field. The next field is much larger, is divided by wire fences with stiles linking each section, and with Brasted Lane the other side of the left-hand hedge. When you draw level with a white house another stile takes you into a large field bordering Roughfield Woods, with two tall radio masts seen slightly left ahead. Walk alongside the woods and maintain direction in the next adjoining field, but on entering a third field through a gap in the hedge, bear left along the headland. Near the top of this the way veers slightly left, then right along a track which goes along the right-hand edge of a narrow field. When the track curves right to spill onto a lane, remain within the field but turn left for about 80 yards, then down steps to cross the road (Grid ref: 471587).
Note: Should you be seeking accommodation or refreshment in Knockholt, turn left and left again at a T-junction.
On the east side of the road keep to the right-hand edge of a field alongside an extensive woodland whose boundaries will be followed for the next mile or so. The path is clearly waymarked, and after passing through a largely open section of woodland, it cuts south, then north-east again with the woods still on your right-hand side. In the latter stages of this woodland boundary walk views are of Knockholt Pound to the left, and tall buildings of London seen in the distance – a reminder that for a while the North Downs Way sneaks just beyond the capital’s outer limits. There is no real sense of downland here, though no suggestion of height either as the North Downs rise gently from the Thames, and it is only when the scarp edge is rediscovered that the true nature of the Downs as a barrier above the Weald becomes apparent. At last come onto another very narrow road by a bungalow and turn right (Grid ref: 485592).
Note: There’s a further opportunity for refreshment here by turning left along the road for less than 1?2 mile. Knockholt Pound has two pubs.
A few paces after coming onto the road bear left through a kissing gate and wander ahead towards Lees Wood. Off to the right a view shows beyond the hinted Holmesdale Valley to the wooded Greensand Ridge. When you reach Lees Wood veer slightly left and follow a track round to the right through a gap, and on emerging cross a stile and bear right along the woodland edge. Towards the southern end the field narrows, and the path swings right into the woods, then bears left out of the trees to gain a view down the slope to stately Chevening House,[1] Chevening Church to the left of that and the large white building of Coombe Bank (now a private girls’ school) above and to the right of Chevening House.
The North Downs Way takes you over a stile, then left round the edge of a steep downland slope. Views are splendid – across a great basin formed by a confluence of valleys walled by the greensand hills to the south. Keeping woods to your left the way soon contours south-east with Chipstead Lakes[2] seen down in the basin. Were it not for the M25, M26 and A21 complex below, this would be an idyllic and very peaceful corner. The way crosses a stile, still beside woods, and continues along the top edge of a large arable field to pass a seat which marks the 10th anniversary (in 1997) of Sevenoaks Ramblers. The path now goes down the slope with dog roses and elder flowers garlanding the descent in early summer. Near the foot of the slope go over a stile and down some steps into a field across which you can see Turvin’s Farm. Go round the left-hand boundary and out to a road at the far corner (Grid ref: 496579).
Note: If you have arranged accommodation in Chevening, turn right here, and shortly after passing Turvin’s Farm take a path which strikes directly across the fields to Chevening Church.
Turn left on the B2211 which parallels the M25, and after about 200 yards you’ll find a pavement on the right-hand side. On coming to a roundabout turn right to cross the motorway. Now walk alongside the A224 towards Dunton Green (accommodation, refreshments). Reaching a junction by the Rose & Crown pub, turn left – this is also the route of the Darent Valley Path.[3] Immediately before reaching Donnington Manor Hotel (Grid ref: 506581) turn right on a footpath which leads into a field. Maintain direction along the right-hand edge, cross a stile and continue up a sloping field. At the head of the slope the path leads through a strip of woodland and emerges to a view across Otford rooftops to the North Downs on the far side of the Darent Valley.
The way cuts directly through the field ahead with views left into the Darent Valley.[4] Cross a railway bridge to the head of narrow Telston Lane and follow this down past New Barn Farm, then through a residental area to a T-junction where you turn right. This leads to the heart of Otford (accommodation, refreshments),[5] crossing on the way the innocent-looking River Darent.
Otford has four pubs, a restaurant, café and shops – all on the route of the North Downs Way. There’s also a public toilet (on the left, opposite The Bull), buses to Sevenoaks, and railway station serving London. (Tourist Information Centre: Buckhurst Lane, Sevenoaks TN13 1LQ Tel. 01732 450305.)
Passing the village duckpond on your right walk ahead up Station Road (the A225), and turn into the first turning on the right after Otford Station. This is Pilgrims Way East. After about 100 yards take a path on the left rising up a few steps, then continue between hedges and fences to climb Otford Mount. A memorial seat makes the most of a view over Otford, and here the path veers slightly right and continues to climb more steps. Easing through woodland you then cross a hilltop field along its right-hand boundary and come to a junction of minor roads (Grid ref: 544599).
Walk ahead (direction Woodlands, East Hill and West Kingsdown), and after about 150 yards find a footpath on the right which is guided by a fence along the edge of Rowdow Wood. At the woodland corner the path is led by more stiles and a series of kissing gates through linking fields to reach another narrow lane by a house. Turn right, and shortly after veer left on a private drive leading to Otford Manor (formerly Hildenborough Hall). Just before the drive passes between brick pillars cross a stile on the right and follow a fence-lined path alongside woods. The way goes downhill among trees, comes to a crossing path, and continues down a few more paces to a bench seat on Whiteleaf Down (Grid ref: 552595).
Note: If you plan to stay overnight at Kemsing Youth Hostel continue down the slope into Kemsing village and bear left. The hostel is located behind the church (Tel. 01732 761341).
The North Downs Way turns left to contour the hillside through patches of scrub above Kemsing,[6] and when the path forks at the start of a brief open stretch of downland, take the left branch uphill a little. Cross a deeply-sunken track in woods (the way down also goes to Kemsing YH) and continue ahead, soon crossing a stile and climbing a few steps, then through a group of oak trees to regain the crest of the Downs. A splendid panorama is won from this high point – one of the best of the walk so far. Note the wooden cross on the lip of the escarpment. Maintain direction across the downland turf, near the end of which you bear left over a stile and walk round the right-hand edge of a field. About 30 yards left of the right-hand corner cross another stile onto a continuing path which cuts along the edge of Fab’s Wood.
Over a crossing track turn right onto a path which runs parallel with it, going through the wood and into an open field. Maintain direction to a stile on the far side which grants access to another woodland path, then into a second meadow. Continue ahead, passing above a house with a tennis court. About three-quarters of the way along this meadow turn right, then through a kissing gate to go left downhill among trees and onto Cotman’s Ash Lane (Grid ref: 567598).
Walk uphill for a short distance. Just after passing the entrance to Summeryards, turn right by a barn and go straight ahead on a farm track into a meadow with another barn where you maintain direction – with the radio mast on Wrotham Hill now in view. Continue through the next meadow, but in the top left-hand corner a stile on the left leads the way as a woodland path. Twisting through Summeryards Wood you then emerge in the corner of a hilltop field and maintain direction along the broad headland. Veer right at a crossing track. This takes you round the head of another field, soon passing a NDW milestone – Farnham 60; Canterbury 54; Dover 65 miles.
Shortly after this the farm track curves right, but you veer left into the edge of a little woodland to pass a concrete dewpond, then walk ahead along the right-hand boundary of a large field. At the end of this enter Birches Wood where bluebells are abundant in springtime. This woodland, and much of the farmland around it, belongs to the St Clere Estate,[7] based at the foot of the Downs. Emerging from the woods on a country road turn right, but after about 20 yards take the footpath on the left. Descend steps to gain a lovely view across the Weald, with the line of the eastern Downs on the far side of the Medway Valley. Descend the slope to another stile, over which you walk ahead through an arable field as far as a narrow lane – Pilgrims Way (Grid ref: 583595).
Turn left along a hedge-lined track for about 3?4 mile where you come to a narrow country road. Turn right, then in a couple of paces go left on a path which leads to Wrotham (accommodation, refreshments). Enter Wrotham along a residential street, and at crossroads continue ahead on the Pilgrims Way. After passing some houses the road bends to the right towards playing fields. On reaching tennis courts the North Downs Way cuts left on a tarmac path.
Wrotham has three pubs, a hotel (The Bull), b&b, shops, public toilets (about 200 yards past the tennis courts), telephone kiosk, and bus services to Borough Green (railway), Sevenoaks and Gravesend. The large medieval church, dedicated to St George, has a fine collection of brasses, and behind it there once stood a palace used by the peripatetic Archbishops of Canterbury. It was pulled down in 1349, and the stone used to build Archbishop Islip’s palace in Maidstone. Wrotham was a staging post on the London road, and it was here in 1536 that Henry VIII learned that Anne Boleyn’s execution had been carried out.
Items of Interest:
1: Chevening House was bequeathed to the nation on the death of the seventh Earl Stanhope in 1967 (together with a £250,000 endowment for its upkeep), and is now the official country home of the Foreign Secretary. A 17th century manor designed by Inigo Jones, it was in the Stanhope family from 1718 on.
2: Chipstead Lakes have been formed by flooding one-time gravel pits, and are now used as a wildfowl reserve.
3: The Darent Valley Path follows the modest River Darent from Sevenoaks to Dartford, passing several places of interest along the way, including Lullingstone Roman Villa. Kent County Council has published an illustrated guide to the walk.
4: The Darent Valley is one of the best-loved in this part of Kent, and with two pleasant villages (Shoreham and Eynsford) between Otford at its southern end, and Farningham where the valley’s character changes. Artist Samuel Palmer lived for seven years in Shoreham beside the River Darent. Further downstream the Romans had a villa at Lullingstone near Eynsford, while the remains of Eynsford Castle (also beside the Darent) date from Norman times. When the M25 was originally planned it was proposed to route it through the valley. Had the series of well-orchestrated protests by local people been unsuccessful it would have lost its peace and beauty for all time. Happily the motorway was rerouted to pass above and to the west of the valley.
5: Otford is an attractive village with a 2000 year history. The Romans were here, and Offa, King of Mercia, fought an important battle nearby in AD774, while another battle, this one against the Danes, took place in 1016. Near the church stand the ruins of one of the Archbishop’s palaces, used by Becket, enlarged by Warham in the 16th century, but taken by Henry VIII from Archbishop Cranmer. Henry, however, preferred to stay at Knole in Sevenoaks and having barely used Otford Palace it quickly fell into disrepair. The church of St Bartholomew is worth a visit, while the duckpond in the centre of the village roundabout is said to be the only area of water in England designated as a listed building.
6: Kemsing has grown with commuter sprawl, but the old part of the village retains its character and repays a visit. The church of St Mary the Virgin is of Norman origin, while behind a village war memorial lies St Edith’s Well in a little sunken garden. This is named for the daughter of King Edgar who was born here in AD961, and water from the spring is said to cure sore eyes.
7: St Clere Estate has at its heart a mansion built in the reign of Charles I for Sir John Sedley, known at the time as ‘the hottest Parliamentarian in the county’. The house sits at the foot of the North Downs midway between Kemsing and Wrotham, but the estate land extends to the crest of the Downs and beyond.
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