Annapurna: A Trekker's Guide
Annapurna: A Trekker's Guide
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Section 2: Chhomrong to Annapurna Base Camp
Distance: 21km (13 miles)
Time: 3 days (12hrs)
Start altitude: 2170m (7110ft)
High point: Annapurna Base Camp, 4130m (13,550ft)
Height difference: 1960m (6430ft)
The two-day trek through the gorge of the Modi Khola is something of a switchback, with a number of steep ascents and descents on a trail that in places can be very slippery. The gorge is notoriously damp and misty, and for much of the time views are severely restricted as the route progresses through forests of rhododendron and bamboo thickets. But when views are clear Machhapuchhare dominates, now revealing the fish-tail summit ridge that gives the mountain its name. Since the gorge route is used in both directions by every visitor to the Sanctuary – trekkers, mountaineering expeditions and their porters – at times bottle-necks occur. Lodges also become heavily used, and you’re advised not to push on too late in the day before booking a bed for the night.
In the introductory paragraphs to the Sanctuary Trek, a warning was given with regard to avalanche danger near Hinko Cave. This warning is repeated: if there’s been recent heavy snowfall, do not risk crossing the exposed area until it is safe to do so. If in doubt, ask lodge keepers for advice.
Once you enter the Sanctuary proper near Machhapuchhare Base Camp, you’re too close to the mountains to gain a proper perspective, but another 400m (1300ft) of ascent to Annapurna Base Camp will enable you to appreciate the full impact of this magical arena. For this you’ll need to be acclimatised, so on the way through the Modi Khola’s gorge, you’re advised to drink copious amounts if liquid and to ascend slowly to give your body time to adjust to the altitude. (See notes on Mountain Sickness under the ‘On-Trek Healthcare’ section in the Introduction.)
In recent years ACAP authorities have been pro-active in managing the Sanctuary Trek by closing those lodges located in possible danger areas and regrouping them in designated sites, limiting the size of individual hotels, and outlawing the cutting and burning of timber. Sections of trail are being upgraded and paved, and litter drums have been provided. These measures should help control the environmental impact of large numbers of visitors being funnelled into a relatively small area, and at the same time improve the experience for those visitors.
Below Chhomrong, at 1860m (6102ft), cross a suspension bridge over the Chhomrong Khola, with Annapurna South towering at the head of its gorge to your left. The trail now begins a long twisting climb up and round the hillside spur that divides the valleys of the Chhomrong and Modi Kholas. An interminable flight of steps takes you past a few simple tea-houses, and in 30mins from the bridge you reach the Hotel Himal, which commands a fine view of Chhomrong across the valley. Continue a little higher to Sherpa Guesthouse, built on the spur where the trail turns into the Modi Khola’s gorge. Machhapuchhare looks magnificent from here. Continue along the trail for a few more minutes to gain
SINUWA (2340m, 7677ft), about 1hr from the bridge. There’s a group of three lodges and stunning views of Machhapuchhare, Annapurna III and Gangapurna from Sinuwa Lodge, Hilltop Lodge and the Sinuwa Guesthouse.
The trail leads on, somewhat rougher than before, and enters rainforest whose rhododendrons are wonderful in the springtime. About 55mins from Sinuwa the trail forks. There’s little to indicate that this is close to the site of KULDE (Khuldigar; 2540m, 8333ft), a former British sheep-breeding station whose buildings were taken over by ACAP as a check-post and visitor centre. These too have now been closed. Take the lower branch and pass an abandoned building, then begin the steep descent that leads through dense bamboo and rhododendron jungle to the appropriately named lodge complex of
BAMBOO (2335m, 7661ft, 2½hrs). There are five stone-built hotels here: the Buddha, Bamboo and Trekking guesthouses, the Bamboo Lodge and Green View Lodge.
The 1¼hr climb from Bamboo to Doban is less severe than the earlier part of the walk, and you make a steady ascent, albeit with a few short steep sections. On the way there are several side-streams to cross. These are usually aided by large stepping stones or with bamboo poles lashed together to form a bridge. The route continues to be slippery when wet. Moments after passing a small hydro-plant you arrive at
DOBAN (2505m, 8219ft, 3¾–4hrs). Also spelt Dovan, the three lodges and camping grounds spread in a line within a brief forest clearing are: the Dovan Guesthouse, Annapurna Approach Lodge and Hotel Tip-Top. Machhapuchhare can once again be seen soaring overhead to the north-east.
Continuing in forest, more switchbacks and narrow sections of trail lead deeper into the gorge. About 45mins after leaving Doban you come to a small Hindu shrine opposite a string of waterfalls.
About 1hr 10mins beyond Doban you cross a stream and come to another clearing with the two lodges and camping area of
HIMALAYA (2875m, 9432ft, 5¼hrs). Himalaya Guesthouse and Himalaya Hotel stand close together below Mardi Himal, the southern outlier of Machhapuchhare. An ACAP sign warns of avalanche danger between here and Machhapuchhare Base Camp, proposing that you cross the area of risk before 10am and follow the advice of local lodge owners. Should conditions suggest that you take the alternative trail beyond Hinko Cave, please do so even though it will probably take longer than the standard route.
Leaving Himalaya Hotel the trail winds up among bamboo thickets and forest, narrow in places and still slippery after rain or snow, then steepens to gain HINKO CAVE (3150m, 10,335ft). For a few years a simple lodge that could sleep about a dozen people was tucked against the huge overhanging boulder formerly used as a bivouac site by the shepherds and hunters who forced this trail, but this has been closed by the ACAP authorities and resited a little futher upvalley.
Beyond Hinko descend to cross a ravine and climb out on the other side. This is a classic avalanche trap. On occasion the gorge is virtually blocked here, and it is often necessary to climb over the debris brought down from the slopes of Hiunchuli, unseen above to the left. The way continues across several streams and between boulders, and about half an hour from Hinko brings you to the four lodges of
DEURALI (3230m, 10,597ft, 6½hrs): the Deurali, Shangrila, Panorama Guesthouse and Dream Hotel. In the event of avalanche danger, check with the lodge owners here for the safest route above Bagar.
The valley broadens and there’s a change in vegetation as the trail meanders across a fairly level section where Gangapurna shows itself ahead, framed by the steep walls that form the gateway to the Sanctuary. More avalanche chutes are crossed, and the path once more climbs against the left-hand mountainside, then drops to the river, which it follows to a meadow where there used to be two small lodges. This area was known as BAGAR.
When the standard, west side, route is blocked or threatened by avalanche, you should use an alternative trail on the eastern side of the Modi Khola above Bagar. Apparently there’s usually a sign to indicate the way. The standard path, however, continues along the western flank and eventually enters the Sanctuary. A stream pours down from the left and is crossed by a bridge, and over this the trail forks. Immediately in front a stone stairway climbs a vegetated bluff to the Machhapuchare Cosy Lodge, with a German weather station nearby. The left fork skirts below the bluff and brings you to the other buildings of
MACHHAPUCHHARE BASE CAMP (MBC) (3700m, 12,139ft, 7½–8hrs). There are five lodges in all, including the Cosy Lodge; the others are: the Gurung Co-op, Annapurna View, the Sankar and the Fish Tail Lodge. Machhapuchhare (6993m, 22,943ft) rises abruptly to your right: a great shaft of rock, snow and ice seriously foreshortened and failing to provide the beautiful fish-tail profile for which it is known (see box ‘The Fish-Tail Peak’, p234)). Above to the left can be seen the north-eastern aspect of Annapurna South, while more extensive views are reserved for the belvedere of Annapurna Base Camp.
It was around here that Jimmy Roberts and his small team made their base while attempting to climb Machhapuchhare in 1957, the story of which is told by Wilfred Noyce in Climbing the Fish’s Tail. Then in 1970, during his reconnaissance in advance of the successful ascent of the South Face of Annapurna I, Don Whillans made a temporary camp here and saw, first, a moving shape then tracks that his Sherpas swore belonged to a Yeti. Whillans describes this experience in Chris Bonington’s book Annapurna South Face.
The altitude here at MBC is sufficient to produce symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness in unacclimatised trekkers, so if you are being affected, under no circumstances should you attempt to go any higher until the symptoms disappear.
The final 400m climb to Annapurna Base Camp ascends at a steady gradient, never very steeply, yet the altitude is likely to have a tiring effect. Don’t be tempted to hurry, even if you are fit and untroubled by the altitude; instead it’s best to ascend slowly and enjoy the expanding panorama. The route is on a clear, well-defined trail that angles along a trough below the vegetated moraine of the unseen South Annapurna glacier, and as you gain height so the lodge buildings are revealed ahead. The final rise to gain these lodges is the steepest part of the approach.
Beginning this last stage of the route from the Fish Tail Lodge area, simply follow the path which heads west to join the main trail rising through the centre of the valley. This rises easily through the undulating ablation valley, below the glacial moraine, and with the slopes of Hiunchuli rising above to your left. Cross a minor ridge to a flat area with rivulets flowing through and continue upvalley with views to Annapurna South and its northern ridge leading towards Annapurna I, which remains frustratingly obscure until almost the last minute. Pause now and then to enjoy the growing views behind, and you will realise just how much altitude is being gained.
ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP (ABC) (4130m, 13,550ft) is gained about 1½–2hrs from MBC, and is where Chris Bonington’s successful 1970 expedition to the South Face of Annapurna was sited. (The 1950 French expedition, of course, attacked the mountain from the north, with its base camp located at the head of the Miristi Khola.) It’s a cold, often windy and snowbound place rimmed by glacial moraines – but with the most amazing high mountain panorama to make it all worthwhile. But note that clouds often fill the Sanctuary around midday and remain there to deny all views until early evening.
Perhaps the very best views to be had by non-mountaineers are from the crest of the moraine wall just beyond the lodges – a magical place that looks out at soaring buttresses of rock and ice, hanging glaciers, snowfields, shapely peaks and ridges whose pristine cornices are etched against the deep blue of a Himalayan sky. You’ll find a memorial up here to Russian mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev, who was killed by an avalanche on the Southwest Face of Annapurna I on Christmas Day 1997 – one of many climbers to have lost their lives within this arc of visual splendour.
There are four lodges here: the Annapurna, Annapurna Sanctuary, Snowland and the Paradise Garden. They all serve reasonable meals, offer private rooms and have surprisingly good toilet facilities for such a remote location. But be warned: if you are suffering any effects of the altitude, you should not consider spending a night here, but descend at least as far as MBC.
THE SANCTUARY
This extravagantly beautiful amphitheatre forms an almost complete circle, with only the narrow cleft of the Modi Khola’s gorge breaking the ring of high mountains. Beginning in the south and working clockwise, those peaks on display are:
Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, Baraha Shikhar (otherwise known as Fang) and Annapurna I; then Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) and Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) effectively block the continuing rim of the Sanctuary until you gaze on Gangapurna,
Annapurna III, the delicate peak of Gandharba Chuli (Gabelhorn) and Machhapuchhare, whose face appears to plunge into a bottomless well.
Four mountains within, and on the edge of, the amphitheatre are on the official list of Trekking Peaks. (This title is something of a misnomer, since high-mountaineering experience and equipment will be required in order to tackle them.) These are: Hiunchuli (6441m, 21,132ft), Singu Chuli (6501m, 21,329ft), Tharpu Chuli (5663m, 18,580ft) and Mardi Himal (5588m, 18,333ft), this last-named being an extension of Machhapuchhare and the most southerly of the Annapurna group.
Of these Hiunchuli was first climbed by an American Peace Corps expedition in 1971; Singu Chuli by Wilfred Noyce and David Cox following their failed attempt on Machhapuchhare (1957); Tharpu Chuli by a Japanese expedition bound for Annapurna South in 1964; while Mardi Himal fell to Jimmy Roberts and two Sherpas in 1961.
In time, all the higher mountains of the Sanctuary have naturally drawn the attention of full-scale expeditions. The Japanese were among the very first, climbing both Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome, 7202m, 23,629ft) and the superb Annapurna South, referred to as Ganesh by Roberts in the 1950s, but also known as Annapurna Dakshin. This 7219m (23,684ft) peak which so dominates the village of Chhomrong received its first ascent, via the North Ridge, from an expedition mounted by Kyoto University in 1964.
Annapurna I (8091m, 26,545ft), as has already been mentioned, was the first 8000m mountain to be climbed when Herzog and Lachenal reached the summit from the north in 1950. Both summiteers suffered severe frostbite, were forced to bivouac in a crevasse on the way down, and only narrowly escaped with their lives (see box, p209). The awesome South Face was climbed by Bonington’s British expedition in 1970, with Don Whillans and Dougal Haston reaching the summit just seven days after the original North Face route had received its second ascent from a British Army expedition.
Gangapurna (7454m, 24,455ft) was won by a German team led by Gunther Hauser in 1965. The original aim of this expedition was to climb Annapurna I from the Sanctuary, but on appraisal they altered course and decided instead to tackle this fine, hitherto unclimbed peak to the west of Annapurna III.
Annapurna III (7555m, 24,787ft) and its extensive south-projecting ridge, which forms one of the embracing arms of the Sanctuary, effectively blocks the eastern part of the massif from view. (Beyond it rise Annapurnas IV and II, and Lamjung Himal.) Annapurna III was climbed in 1961 by an Indian expedition and, as has already been stated, a small British team led by Jimmy Roberts climbed to about 50m below the summit of Machhapuchhare (6993m, 22,943ft) in 1957, since when all further applications to attempt the mountain have been refused by the Nepalese authorities. It is rumoured, however, that Machhapuchhare has received at least one illegal ascent by a solo climber.
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