Walks and Scrambles in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas

Author updates

Getting there(page 35)

Air Arabia no longer operates from Manchester. The principal carriers to Agadir from Manchester are Air Maroc, Ryanair, EasyJet and Tui although a wider choice may be available from London to Marrakech or other Moroccan destinations.

A taxi from Agadir to Tafraout is likely to cost €80+

A coach service operates from Inezgane bus station in Agadir, which is a 200 DH taxi ride from the airport. Most services operate at 10.00pm nightly bus stand 10) and by virtue of its very busy nature care is needed with your safety and belongings. The return morning service from Tafraout leaves from the main roundabout near the hotels, or opposite Espace Harbaz cafe café, at about 8.30am. It costs around 60 DH and takes about 4hr. Allow a further 200DH for the 20min taxi ride to the airport. Alternately, a grand taxi from Tafraout should cost around €75.

Getting around page 37)

There are no longer any regular local bus services other than yellow school buses and morning coaches to the major towns. Grand Taxis serve all local villages and can be found a few metres north east of the main river bridge. Prices vary depending on the number of passengers and there is scope for negotiation with the price varying according to your perseverance and how far in advance you enquire. For example, a one way taxi to Ayerd Route 5) may be offered between 100 and 200DH.

Unofficial taxis sometimes operate in front of the petrol station at the main roundabout in the morning. Bear in mind that petrol is still the equivalent of over £1 or €1 per litre.

Hitching a lift is no longer fashionable worldwide but is possible from and to Tafraout. You may be asked for a fare, which should amount to far less than a taxi ride. By way of a recce in January 2023 the author obtained a lift on three separate occasions with about 1 in 15 vehicles stopping in each case, which is okay on busy roads but less so in remote villages. The safety of this practice cannot be guaranteed anywhere in the world but insofar as any rules apply it is wise to hitch in pairs and to keep phones and valuables well hidden.

Self-drive hire cars are still the most frequent form of transport but if you fancy a trip with an overnight stay in the desert either of the two carpet sellers will offer you something interesting.

Eating and Drinking pages 38-39)

Espace Harbaz Café is added to the list of good places to eat. It can be found 80m NE from the grand taxi rank. Café Alfath a few doors down from the Kasbah restaurant) does excellent fruit juice with added fruit try the Panache), and also a good Berber omelette and coffee if not taking breakfast in your hotel.

Route description changes

As mentioned on page 46 road of the guide and previous updates, road re-surfacing has changed the start/finish of routes. For example, the mileage post given on page 83 for the Tahala Peak route has not yet been replaced after resurfacing. Also improvements in water supply has led to less reliance on road side taps such that the one next to the water tower on the approach to Tizi N’ Takoucht Day I of Multi-Day Trek) is inoperable but the one past the commune near the closed Gite Takoucht still works.

Route 5 Adrar Mqorn direct form Ayerd page 67)

Author updates

If lacking a hire car an alternative finish can be made to Amal Oudrar and a walk back along the road to Tafraout.

Whichever route you take, the paths on this mountain are often faint, with progress made along the line of least resistance.

The south summit is no longer decorated but the higher north summit bears a plaque. The descent can be shortened by retracing your steps from the north summit to the saddle shelter cave under a rock by a tree) between the summits. Head steeply westwards, without much scrambling, until a cairn marks a right N) turn down to trees on the left of the boulder field facing out page 71). By keeping as leftwards as possible and without the need to scramble, you should pick up a faint path that crosses the rocks leftwards and widens into a slope leading to the bottom of the main face. Head south to Ayerd via WP2, or work down the steep slope to Amal Oudrar and back to the main road.

If retreating by the approach route from the south summit, cairns now point downwards to a gully leading rightwards to the ‘campsite’ with the steepest section being the last 5 metres. This could also be used for the ascent but the access is hidden by a tree facing the campsite.

Route 25 Jebel el Kest. The Summits from Tagdicht(see below or download pdf).

Author updates

This update to pages 166-177 of the guidebook follows the appearance of some new paths and change in status of the Descent Route page 169) so a revised description is provided below. The direct descent is still the fastest way down from the North Summit and was possibly once the accepted ‘trade route’ between the northern villages and Tagdicht.

It is not favoured by guides because of steep loose scree in its lower part but it is manageable by those with good navigation and confidence in descending such terrain. However, even on the ordinary or voie normale, paths can be loose and covered by vegetation in springtime.

Magnetic compasses are not always reliable on this mountain and hand held GPS phone apps may be not be 100% accurate so make sure you take time to look back on ascent to check the path and work out your descent route. All considered it would make good sense to prepare by doing some easier walks before aiming for the highest peak. If in any doubt take a guide available next to the main mosque near the Hotel Salama square).

Description

Distance: 10 km. Height gain: 1100m. Time: 7 hrs return. Grade: Difficult

Parking: Top of the village on right near a water pipe just before final bend two cars).

? 348 232. Starting from the revised parking place turn the corner and branch right at A-shaped wooden cable carrier where the road gives way to gravel. Go up concrete steps through a narrow passage and descend to cross a concrete bridge. Ascend a few switchbacks then contour westwards along a good path to turn a corner turning rightwards towards the mountain. Pass through a notch and down steps to cross the stream bed 15 min).

? 346 231. Climb the zig-zags to a flat sandy area grassy after rain). Find the faint path and continue to cross the second stream bed. About 5 min from here, at around 1700m, you reach a junction with a partially formed new path which leads leftwards towards Anergui. Ignore this and continue now above the stream bed to where the stream meets the left prow of a steep rock buttress approx. 45 min).

? 327 234. From the rock and ignoring any paths to the left), continue ahead to cross the stream and trend rightwards up a slope to emerge at a flat area at the left edge of another rock buttress. Continue towards the mountain to reach the toe of a third buttress which may, if not faded, bear some writing in Arabic requesting shepherds not graze to graze their livestock there.

? 325 237. From this buttress head towards the leftmost tree-lined, gully, grandiosely named the Great Ramp. This is left of the wide slope bordering the west side of Tagdicht Buttress. Note in descent to stay close to the mountain on leaving the summit). To avoid the hidden depression that stands in your way bear left and climb up above the 2000m level to contour around and descend slightly to the now un-cairned) foot of the Gully.

Weave up the Great Ramp gaining300m for what seems like a long time then traverse leftwards just below the summit ridge to the South Summit. Return by the same route if not visiting the north summit or confident in crossing steep scree on the direct descent..

Route 35 Darth Vader

There has been some changes mainly in the signage which affects only the first two paragraphs from the start. A revised version is given below.

? Take the faint westerly diagonal path 5m from the concrete sign now bearing he message Bien Venue- Welcome) and follow it past trees initially towards the transmitter mast. Pass a dark red house and other buildings to a house with and open well and water pipe 0.5km). Cross a track and follow the path towards a faded beige house. Stay left of the house, turning right at the wall bearing the number N13 and very faded 59) then immediate left.

Continue across open country towards a large pale yellow house. Pull onto stream bridge near recently constructed houses turning left then right onto the concrete ramp note this for the return). Turn left along the side of the yellow house and pass another yellow house and round walls, a well and outside tap. Take the rightmost of two paths following a wall then a water pipe for a while to the right and above a water tower and white mosque 25 min). Pass an area of collapsed wall turning right at the next junction and turn left where the path meets a wall above.

Author updates

Route 1 The Ouadou Basin p51–52)

This description covers changes in the footpaths from WP2 to WP5, the key differences being towards the end of WP2 and start of WP3.

WP2 The path now weaves towards the Ameln Valley crossing a degraded section where a tree meets the hillside. Keep to the left at a junction, descending close to the hillside until the path becomes faint as it meets another path from the right at a shallow concrete well. Trend leftwards, increasingly parallel to the valley and left of a palmery, to pass through old argan trees. Where the path meets a vehicle track continue for a few metres then branch rightwards along a faint path to emerge at an isolated large old argan tree opposite a cemetery. If you want to shorten the walk turn right here into Tirgut and right again at the end of a building to the main road.

WP3 Now instead of heading for the water tower) cross the track and follow a faint path left of the cemetery perimeter wall. Continue well to the left of a widening stream bed between a stone building and water tower and left of a large grey building on the edge of the village. Turn right after this and right again aiming for a colourful small mosque. Turn immediately left and follow an irrigation channel past a turreted house avoiding any left turn newly fenced cemetery). Pass through a gate in the fence and cross the enclosure. Approximately 50m before a small reservoir take a steep path leftwards through a gate to a beige house. Pass behind this from the right hidden alleyway at back or skirt around it to pass a dark red house). Continue as in route description.

WP4 Note water tap on right between buildings above ornamental garden and floor level ONIP sign now faded. Avoid an obvious lower horizontal path to the right when approaching the rising traverse. When passing the shelters take the path left at 100m and ignore several other blue marked paths on the col.

Route 3 The Elephant’s Trunk p59)

WP1 to WP2 Take care to not mistake the shallow gully for the slope on the left. At three quarters height up the gully an alternative path leads horizontally left to a ruined shelter then turns right up the stone enclosures and circles 30min each way). The optional scramble has now seen some traffic and the flagpole can now be done at grade one scramble the prickly bush has gone) taking care to go clockwise around rather than climb the difficulties. An awkward step up leads to a flagpole on the summit.

The additional 1252m and 1189m summits, not described but shown on the map, can be can be climbed clockwise without much scrambling as an alternative to Dolphin Peak, but very good route finding ability is needed to avoid the rocky barriers.

Route 13 Southwest Rim and Summits p104)

Access and parking Better parking is now available 250m south on the left.

W1 The building alterations in the text include a superb new Gite on the right of the steps catering for 15 at very reasonable prices including food Gite GDourt contact: chezoblek@gmail.com. Tel +212 661 486646). Behind this are empty beehives. The watercourse now has several breakwaters, one of which needs crossing to gain the path on the right. The alternative path still works and is 100m north of the gite and near a cable post. Go left up a slab to where the rock turns black cairn) then diagonally left.

Route 17 Tizgut Ridge p122–124)

WP1 The more direct approach now minus 20Kph sign) is now less obvious from the turreted house as paths have faded and the cluster of trees multiplied. The access to the alternative approach probably better) has changed with the extension of the cemetery right of the mosque. Staying with the main parking walk down to the mosque. You are aiming generally for the rightmost top red building with balcony and mast. Ascend right of graveyard boundary fence, weave up and as you pass under a stone building with a partially collapsed ceiling take a path upwards back right and then left behind the building. Follow water pipes until the ONIP building is reached. A faint path on the right leads to the ridge.

WP2 Note a small lean-to degraded wall on the right of the ridge is not the shelter that is referred to in the text, which is higher up and needs care negotiating on its south side. Also the escape route here is now down much degraded paths that take 30min to descend to an initially faint horizontal path back to the water station.

Route 38 The Lost World of Adad Medni p251/252)

There are two minor changes to the approach. The prominent white wall has now faded and the ‘steep unmade section’ on the final approach to the parking is now concreted but still requires good judgement as it is narrow on bends.

Route Updates and corrections

July 2019

Route 26 and 29 update please see downloads tab for details.

Feb 2019

Page 31: Time Zone in October 2018 Morocco suddenly announced that it was discontinuing the daylight saving adjustment and it will remain on GMT + 0 in line with western Mediterranean countries.

Appendix C p276 : Ait Baha- Hotel Aladarissa email address 'contact@hotelaldarissa.com' no longer works and is replaced by 'aladarissahotel@gmail.com'.

Page 277 Under important telephone numbers: Additional Police Telephone number for the north part of the area above Ida Ougnidif is covered by Ait Baha Police +212(0)528254355). This covers the One Week trek stages 1&2 and routes 30,31,33 and 34.

Routes and Comments

General Comments.

The re-surfacing of roads(p21) still continues with rapidity. In some instances this will affect routes which use unsurfaced piste) roads as reference points and in particular in the Ameln Valley routes 18,19,20).

Water provision(p39) is becoming scarcer in remote areas and care needs to be taken on the one-week trek.

Individual Routes.

Route 12 p 102). There is an old burial ground just beyond the small concrete building pumping station) which can only be seen clearly from above. Please ensure that if approaching as described you turn immediate right after the building. If approaching from the stream bed aim right of the building then turn right as above.

Route 32 p222). The approach road has now been surfaced so you can drive up to WP1.

The photo-diagram is taken from high up the slope and a number of paths have now opened up on this section. Some people have wrongly followed a path rightwards towards the back of Buzzard Crag. This should be avoided. When passing right of the three cairns WP3) swing rightwards around the base of Buzzard Crag and stay parallel to Crystal Walls on your left) aiming for the col which is clearly visible at the top of the slope on the left.

From the col at WP4 turn back and head up a slope westwards to a col. This slope is above and behind the pinnacles shown in the photo diagram and the two boulders mentioned in the text are on rim of the ridge overlooking the valley you have previously ascended.

Route 41 p264 and internet download)

Stage 1. A group of 4 trekkers on the approach to Tizi N’Takoucht have reported being asked by police to show their documents during the New Year period 219/2020. The reason given was to ensure their safety during what was considered to be a potentially vulnerable period. Trekkers passing through this region and intending to wild camp should anyway do so outside of the immediate vicinity of the village and away from sensitive sites such as burial grounds.

Stage 3. The road through the Tamza Valley is in the process of being substantially widened 2020) but as yet no damage to the entry and exit footpaths have occurred.

Stage 5. Many of the unsurfaced roads in the Ameln Valley have been surfaced.

As noted on page 266 some of the wells have now disappeared as a result of the installation of water meters. In particular the shortage of water during the dry winter of 2019/2020 has led to some active wells being drained.

Stage 6. The well at Amarkhssin 484 115) on Stage 6. is no longer functional but there is a tap in the toilets at the rear of the mosque at Limouda which may be used in an emergency seek permission).

Stage 7. The well at Taghaout has completely disappeared but as of Jan 2019 there is a functional tap outside the mosque where the path emerges into the west of the village.