Walk the Arctic Circle Trail in Greenland with a Cicerone guidebook

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Updates
• Reviews

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Preamble

Ascent of Sugar Loaf

Start/finish       Airport, Kangerlussuaq
Distance           18km (11 miles) there and back
Ascent              400m (1310ft)
Descent            400m (1310ft)
Map                   Kangerlussuaq
Terrain              Most of the distance is covered using a broad stony, sandy, dusty dirt road. A short, steep path leads to the summit of the hill.

The Sugar Loaf is a distinctive, steep-sided little hill that even casual visitors to Kangerlussuaq cannot fail to notice. As it stands beside the dirt road leading to the ice cap, many people get to see it at close quarters. An ascent of the Sugar Loaf is easily accomplished from Kangerlussuaq, or it could be included as an ‘extra’ by anyone walking the dirt road between the ice cap and Kangerlussuaq. The summit is a fine viewpoint.

Start from Kangerlussuaq by leaving the airport and following the main road of Marius Olsen-ip Aqq inland. A junction is reached with a dirt road which is signposted left for the Sugar Loaf, and this is the same road that leads all the way to the ice cap. Follow it uphill and pass an old stone quarry, then drop downhill to a golf course. This is all sandy bunkers and no fairway, while the ‘club house’ is simply a hut, but this is famous as the world’s most northerly international 18-hole golf course!

Follow the road onwards, passing a junction where another track heads off to the right. The road is flanked by impenetrable willow thickets, along with a few planted pines bearing metal tags. These may be the only real trees you see while you are in Greenland. Later, the road overlooks the dirty grey glacial torrent of Akuliarusiarsuup Kuua, or Watson’s River, which pours from a rocky constriction below the twin summits of the Sugar Loaf.

The road later passes through a ‘prohibited’ area – a wide circle marked by posts – but passage is allowed along the road. The US military disposed of some dangerous materials in this area, which is occupied by three scenic little lakes and a cabin. Soon after leaving this area, climb up a track on the right and continue up a steep and narrow path. The slope is covered in willow and birch scrub, with blueberry and crowberry, as well as arctic harebells..

A derelict hut and a few tall wooden masts are all that remains of a communications installation on the hill. Just beyond is the summit of the Sugar Loaf, where a cairn stands on smooth, mineral-veined rock at 353m (1158ft). Views stretch inland to the ice cap, across the grey glacial river to the rugged Akuliarusiarsuk range and Garnet Mountain. Looking beyond Kangerlussuaq to the fjord, the distant Sukkertoppen ice cap can be seen. Westwards lies the terrain traversed by the Arctic Circle Trail – the reason for being here in the first place! Simply retrace your steps to Kangerlussuaq to finish.