Lands End to John O'Groats Cycle Guide
Lands End to John O'Groats Cycle Guide
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The British Isles provides perhaps some of the best cycle touring country in Europe. The diversity of landscape and culture within this relatively small land mass is quite unique and cycling offers the ideal method to explore its many and varied facets. The cycle tourer is fortunate to be able to share the intimacy of the landscape with the hiker, but with an added mobility that allows many times the distance to be covered. Many local tours are open to the aspiring cycle tourist, exploring country lanes that weave a course through the historic past of rural Britain. Many local authorities are now actively promoting these routes in response to greater public demand and a whole new generation are discovering the joys of this relaxing pastime. Perhaps the ultimate cycle tour would be one that interlinks these unique areas and on a single trip explores the full spectrum of diversity of terrain found throughout the country: the wild open moorland of the south-west, the peaks of the central Pennine chain, the glaciated inheritance of Cumbria and the highlands of Scotland.
Such a tour certainly exists and is not beyond the capabilities of any reasonably fit person. It runs from Lands End in the south-west to John O’Groats in the north-east and has been the inspiration for many endurance records and pleasure trips alike. Everybody who has successfully completed the journey by whatever means has a story to tell and are proud to join the celebrated group of “End to Enders”.
History
The bicycle has been in existence for the last 150 years. During this time it has served as both a practical means of transport and a focus for leisure travel. The initial concept of pedal travel came from Germany in 1817. The two-wheeled contraption took the market by storm. Ironically, the Hobbyhorse as it was affectionately known was never pedalled but merely scooted along by the rider’s feet and it wasn’t until around 1860 that pedals were introduced. The Boneshaker employed a direct drive to the front wheel which limited its flexibility for normal use, so consequently was only actively endorsed by enthusiasts. Man’s insatiable lust for speed ensured that faster machines were developed. This was principally achieved by increasing the diameter of the front wheel, reaching its ultimate conclusion in the ludicrously styled Penny-farthing.
The modern cycle came with the invention of chain drive, gearing and the pneumatic tyre, offering a cheap and practical method of transport into the 20th century. It was during this period of boom that the cycle manufacturers were anxious to increase the sales of their cycles by demonstrating the effectiveness of their product. Cycling sports were eagerly contested and sponsorships for feats of endurance were offered.
Reports of rides approaching 1000 miles are documented before the turn of the century and one of the first successful rides from Lands End to John O’Groats took place in 1880. The Roads Record Association was formed in 1888 and the first official time recorded over the distance has been accepted as 65 days 16 hours 7 minutes ridden in 1885 on a Penny-farthing!
The simplicity and affordability of the cycle ensured its popularity in Britain up until the outbreak of the Second World War when the development of motorised transport diverted attention away from the humble bike.
Recent changes of social attitude and a greater environmental awareness has resulted in a rebirth of popularity for the cycle. There are now an estimated 15 million in use in Britain today and the proportion of adult/child owners has increased, which is encouraging. Cycling offers one of the most accessible sport or leisure activities; anybody can do it and there are many active clubs throughout the country to encourage those who are not so sure. Activities range from road racing, cycle touring and time trials to simple afternoon trips into the country with a group of friends. Off road riding has also increased in popularity with the recent introduction of the All Terrain Bike (ATB).
More and more people are discovering the freedom offered by two wheels. The 30,000 that take part in the annual 50-mile ride from London to Brighton is testimony to that. There are many tours available to the cycle tourist within the British Isles. Many people choose short day trips from a central base while others opt for longer trips around selected areas of interest. Whatever the facet of the sport, it is now universally accepted that cycling comes with considerable health benefits as well as simply being a great way to get about whether your bike is being used for daily commuting or round the world tours.
Lands End to John O'Groats
With the introduction of high technology cycle parts, dedicated training schedules and back-up facilities the time taken to complete the distance from Lands End to John O’Groats has been reduced to an unbelievable 1 day 21 hours completed in 1990 by A. Wilkinson. The immensity of this achievement can never be overestimated but it is not the purpose of this guide to infringe on the world of road racing.
Perhaps one of the greatest aspirations of any cyclist is simply to complete the tour from Lands End to John O’Groats. It remains today one of the great distance yardsticks of the British Isles. Many people have risen to the challenge and consequently the course has been completed on foot, backwards, on one wheel, two wheels and three wheels, on a bed and even a motorised barstool! Indeed the route is completed annually by many people. This does not detract from the achievement or the enjoyment of the trip. The exact course followed between these two extremes of the country also varies as much as the method of transport chosen and it would be presumptuous for this guide to suggest one route over all others. The route followed by the guide is not the shortest distance between the two points - that is being left to the road racers - but one that is achievable in a single two-week period whilst taking in as much of the scenic beauty of the country as possible. Above all the aim is to enjoy the trip whilst at the same time exploring parts of the country that are sometimes overlooked by the tourist. For this reason it is by no means definitive and individuals may wish to vary the itinerary to encompass their own particular areas of interest. Where obvious variations are possible these are mentioned in the text.
The route chosen for this guide begins at the tip of Cornwall and diverts almost immediately from the direct route to take in the scenery of the south coast before crossing the remote wilds of Dartmoor into Somerset. The route heads north to the Bristol Channel where it traces the Welsh border through the Midlands. The Cumbrian Cycle Way offers a connecting link between the Lakes and the Pennines and delivers the tourer in 7 days to the Scottish border. A course north-west through Dumfries and Galloway joins the Sustran cycle routes by the coast and continues across the Erskine Bridge to the banks of Loch Lomond. Classic Scottish highland scenery continues through Glen Coe and Fort William on the west coast before the banks of Loch Ness are followed to the east coast. A coastal route then continues north-east to reach John O’Groats.
The Guide
The route has been described in a south to north direction. Although this is psychologically “uphill all the way” it does take advantage of the prevailing south-westerly winds. The total distance covered is just under 950 miles and has been broken down into 14 daily rides averaging 68 miles per day. The maximum distance travelled in one day is 88.7 miles.
Each section begins with a summary of the day’s route together with total distance covered and estimated cycling time. The time quoted does not allow for stops of any kind and assumes a steady pace on a laden bike.
Details are then provided of each major town along the route giving mileage from the previous town, accumulative mileage for the day and accumulative mileage for the tour in brackets. A summary of available facilities is also given which includes: Tourist Information, Rail Station, Bank, Post Office, Library, Cinema, Theatre, Hospital and Shops. Where Shops are mentioned this indicates that a selection of shops is available and that all requirements are generally available. Cycle shops are mentioned specifically. Available accommodation is listed at all points along the route to enable parties to vary the distances covered during a single day. A detailed route map and relief map is provided and the text gives a full route description with handy hints and additional points of interest to watch out for during the day. Despite the fact that metric units have been around for some time all distances and heights have been quoted in imperial units of miles and feet as on balance I think people are more comfortable with them.
The Route
Britain is a country rich in diversity. The landscape varies from the flat and fertile to the wild and mountainous. The climate too ranges from sub-tropical in the south-west, wet temperate in the west to dry in the east.
The route forsakes the dramatic granite cliffs of the northern shore for the more pastoral southern coast with its labyrinth of natural harbours, fishing villages and thickly wooded estuaries and visits the towns of Penzance and Truro, both built on the profits of tin and copper. The 19th-century mines now litter the countryside like a ghostly inheritance from the Industrial Revolution. St Austell and Liskeard lead into the county of Devon.
Devon has a far more mellow character than its rugged Cornish neighbour with scatterings of traditional farmsteads on a landscape of rolling hills. At the heart of the county lies the granite mass of Dartmoor, a high plateau rising to a mean height of over 1000ft above sea level. The county provides possibly some of the most difficult cycling on the tour, as local roadbuilders have chosen a more direct approach to construction compared to some of the more mountainous areas of the country where roads tend to follow contour lines and valleys. Despite this the scenery around Dartmoor is very rewarding with extensive views across the whole south-west peninsula. Once the plateau is crossed torturous country lanes lead to the less aggressive wilds of Exmoor and on to Tavistock where timber-framed houses flaunt a wealth gained from the woollen industry.
The arrival of Taunton brings the third county of the tour and the rich farming areas of the south-west. Somerset is sculpted by the escarpments of the Mendips, Quantocks and the Brendon Hills as well as the underground labyrinths of limestone that spawned the spectacular gorge at Cheddar. Historic towns of Bath, Wells and Glastonbury proudly display their architectural splendour and are all worth diversions from the route that now turns north to reach the city of Bristol.
Bristol stands at the estuary of the River Severn - the largest in the country. The impressive water course is followed north into Gloucestershire and the picturesque towns and villages of the Cotswolds. Fertile meadows form a verdant patchwork by the river bank before reaching Tewkesbury between the Cotswolds to the east and the Malvern Hills to the west. The town of Tewkesbury established itself in the 11th century and now displays a well preserved facade of classic Tudor timber-fronted houses.
The route continues north along the Severn Valley. The town of Evesham, built on both sides of the meandering River Avon, lies at the head of the plum orchards that line the great vale. The River Severn leads north to the architecturally rich city of Worcester, and on to the heartlands of the Industrial Revolution and the birthplace of industry at the Severn Gorge at Ironbridge in Shropshire. The route now continues along the course of the Severn Valley Railway through the rich wooded hills between Bewdley and Bridgnorth. To the west the Shropshire hills buffet the Welsh border rising in ever increasing ridges to merge with the mountains of Snowdonia.
From the new town of Telford the River Severn is left to find its source in the hills of mid Wales while the route continues north through the rich arable lands of Cheshire, wedged between the rugged mountains of North Wales in the west and the peaks of the Pennines in the east.
On initial inspection the counties of Lancashire and Yorkshire contrive to present a seemingly impassable barrier of urban sprawl. The cities of Liverpool and Manchester hug the banks of the Mersey to the west while the Humber links the North Sea to the towns of Sheffield and Leeds. The central Pennine chain completes the barricade. It is surprising therefore that it is Lancashire that provides the breach and offers some of the most diverse and interesting scenery of the tour. The area is a unique mix of quaint rural villages of stone-built cottages and twisted iron monuments which serve as a constant reminder to the industrial heritage. The landscape changes abruptly in the north of the county as the limestone ridges that shape the hillsides of the Dales sweep down to the coast at Morecambe. Full advantage is taken of the local cycle routes which are followed along the country lanes, through the Forest of Bowland before joining the eastern leg of the Cumbrian Cycle Way at Kirkby Lonsdale. The rolling hills of the Pennines are followed to within sight of Hadrian’s Wall, before leading into Scotland at the historic blacksmiths shop and toll house at Gretna Green.
The northern coast of the Solway Firth is abundant in heather and gorse that thrives in the predominantly sandy soil. Views across the Solway Firth to the mountains of the Lake District silhouetted against the setting sun are unforgettable. Red sandstone is plentiful and is found widely in the local architecture with fine examples in the historic town of Dumfries.
A local cycle route is followed north through some of the most picturesque scenery in Scotland to reach the town of Sanquhar at the junction of the Southern Upland Way. This charming section continues through New Cumnock and on to Kilmarnock where a local Sustran cycle route leads pleasantly north along delightful backroads, canal paths and disused rail routes before delivering the unwary cyclist to the industrialised banks of the River Clyde.
The Erskine Bridge provides the route across this famous river from where a further cycleway leads north along the banks of the River Leven to the shores of Britain’s largest loch at Balloch. Loch Lomond’s eastern bank is followed for its 24-mile length to Crianlarich where the meandering road traces the course of the West Highland Way into the Highlands, and across Rannoch Moor and into Glen Coe - historic site of the slaughter of the MacDonald clan in 1692.
Fort William stands in the shadow of Britain’s largest mountain Ben Nevis, at a point where the Caledonian Canal flows into the waters of Loch Eil and Loch Linnhe. The highlands of Scotland have been formed by a violent series of geological events resulting in a chaotic but diverse infusion of rock types. Ancient sediments lie alongside the explosion of metamorphic rocks presenting the landscape with a cloak of diversity that it displays with pride.
A massive geological fault splits the country along a north-easterly line and gives rise to a chain of lochs, of which the most famous is Loch Ness. Once on the east coast the route negotiates the massive incisions of the Beauly and Cromarty Firths with spectacular views back to the Grampian mountains seen across the Moray Firth. From this point the high peaks are left behind for the undulating course that typifies any coastal route to the town of Wick and finally to the headland of John O’Groats.
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