climbing in the world, from the accessible corries of Cairn Gorm and the towering cliffs of Shelter Stone Crag and Lochnagar to the remote recesses of Braeriach, Beinn a'Bhuird, and the magnificent Creag Meagaidh. With over 450 routes across a wide range of grades, styles, and conditions, the Cairngorms offer a winter climbing destination of extraordinary depth and quality.

Now in its seventh edition, this comprehensive Cicerone guidebook covers more than 450 winter climbs across the Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh, from straightforward Grade I snow gullies suitable for those developing their winter skills to extreme Grade VII and above ice and mixed climbs for the most experienced and ambitious mountaineers. Routes are classified by area and style to help climbers choose according to weather, conditions, and ability.

• Choose from more than 450 winter climbs across the Northern Cairngorms, Southern Cairngorms, and Creag Meagaidh, covering the Northern Corries of Cairn Gorm, the Loch Avon basin, Braeriach and the Cairn Toul amphitheatre, Lochnagar, Glen Clova, and the magnificent Coire Ardair at Creag Meagaidh.
• Select routes suited to your grade and experience, from Grade I snow gullies and straightforward mixed routes to serious Grade VII ice and mixed climbs, with routes covering snow, ice, and mixed styles clearly identified throughout.
• Navigate every climb with confidence using photographic topo diagrams and approach maps for each climbing area, alongside clear route descriptions and symbols denoting the type and character of every climb.
• Prepare thoroughly for Cairngorms winter climbing with comprehensive advice on weather and conditions, types of winter climbs, avalanche assessment, navigation, equipment, ethics, logistics, and mountain rescue.
• Discover the iconic route highlights of the Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh, including The Black Spout, Savage Slit, Deep-cut Chimney, Eagle Ridge, and Smith's Gully, alongside hundreds of lesser-known classics across all grades.
• Plan your visit with practical information on the main bases at Aviemore and Deeside, including Braemar and Ballater, with outlying areas accessible from Fort William and Dundee.

Climb the snowfields, icefalls, and mixed faces of the Cairngorms with confidence using this trusted Cicerone guidebook. From the accessible corries above Aviemore to the remote and serious cliffs of Braeriach and Creag Meagaidh, this is the essential companion for winter climbing in one of the world's great mountain ranges.

Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms – Quick Facts

Location: Scotland – the Cairngorms and Creag Meagaidh
Routes covered: 450+ winter climbs across snow, ice, and mixed styles
Difficulty: Grade I to Grade VII and above; good fitness, stamina, navigation, and avalanche assessment skills required for all routes
Areas covered: Northern Cairngorms (Northern Corries, Loch Avon basin, Braeriach and Cairn Toul amphitheatre, Beinn a'Bhuird); Southern Cairngorms (Lochnagar, Creag an Dubh Loch, Glen Clova); Creag Meagaidh (Coire Ardair)
Key centres: Aviemore and Deeside (Braemar and Ballater); outlying areas accessible from Fort William and Dundee
Route highlights: The Black Spout, Savage Slit, Deep-cut Chimney, Eagle Ridge, Smith's Gully
Navigation/mapping: Photographic topo diagrams and approach maps included for every climbing area
Best time to go: December to March for the most reliable conditions; mixed routes often possible from November; snow gullies into late April
Companion title: Winter Climbs: Ben Nevis and Glen Coe (also available from Cicerone)

Author Highlight

"The major climbing venues of the Cairngorms provide some of the finest winter routes in Britain. From the readily accessible Northern Corries – the collective name for the north-facing corries of Cairngorm, including Coire an t-Sneachda and Coire an Lochain – to the magnificent cliffs of Lochnagar, Creag an Dubh Loch and Shelter Stone, to the wild and remote corries of Braeriach and Beinn a’Bhuird, and the icy Creag Meagaidh, every aspect of winter climbing is to be found." 

- Blair Fyffe and John Lyall, authors of Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms

CONTENTS

Topos key

Introduction

Weather and conditions

Types of winter climbs: snow, ice and mixed

Ethics

Logistics

Equipment

Navigation

Mountain rescue

Avalanches

Using this guide

Northern Cairngorms

The Northern Crags

Creagan Cha-no

Coire an t-Sneachda

Coire an Lochain

Lurcher’s Crag

Sron na Lairige

The Loch Avon basin

Stac an Fharaidh

Stag Rocks

Hell’s Lum Crag

Garbh Uisge Crag

Shelter Stone Crag

Carn Etchachan

The Ben MacDui crags

Creagan a’Choire Etchachan

Coire Sputan Dearg

The Cairn Toul/Braeriach amphitheatre

Angel’s Peak

Corrie of the Chokestone Gully

Garbh Choire Mor

Garbh Choire Dhaidh

Coire Bhrochain

Beinn a’Bhuird

Coire na Ciche

Garbh Choire

Southern Cairngorms

The Loch Muick crags

Lochnagar

Creag an Dubh Loch

Eagles Rock

Broad Cairn Bluffs

Glen Clova

The Winter Corrie

Corrie Fee

Creag Meagaidh

Coire Ardair

Appendix A Useful contacts

Appendix B Route summary table by area

Seasons

December to March are the most reliable months for winter climbing, but mixed routes are often possible in November and snow gullies into late April.

Centres

Aviemore and Deeside (Braemar and Ballater) are the main centres.

Difficulty

Winter climbing requires a good level of fitness, stamina and the ability to navigate and assess avalanche conditions. This book includes straightforward Grade I snow gullies through to extreme ice and mixed climbs of Grade VII and above.

Must See

Towering cliffs of Shelter Stone Crag, Lochnagar and Creag Meagaidh, accessible corries of Cairn Gorm and Glen Clova, remote recesses of Braeriach and Beinn a’Bhuird. Route highlights include The Black Spout; Savage Slit; Deep-cut Chimney; Eagle Ridge; Smith’s Gully.

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