Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glencoe - Scotland - Britain

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Further Reading

Ben Nevis, the peaks of Glen Coe and the surrounding mountains give some of the best snow and ice climbing anywhere in Europe, when the conditions are right. So popular and well known is Ben Nevis, that climbers from all parts of the globe have been seen trudging the boggy delights of the famous Allt a’Mhuilinn approach. On some days the common language at the CIC Hut is not English, but French, Spanish or Italian! Film companies continue to produce footage of exciting climbs on Ben Nevis and foreign mountain guides bring clients back each year. Godefroy Perroux, the best-known of the French mountain guides to have fallen under the spell of Nevis, has produced an excellent guide to selected winter climbs on Ben Nevis in both French and English. The mountain is justifiably a good ‘tick’ on any discerning world traveller’s itinerary.

Mountaineers and climbers from the British Isles are fortunate in having these peaks so close, as they provide excellent training for people intending to visit the Alps or greater ranges of the world, whether climbing or trekking. Today’s winter specialists will find more than enough climbing to the highest of modern technical standards to encourage them back, year after year.

Many of the routes are longer than experienced anywhere else in British hills and of alpine-like seriousness. It is not a good idea to be lured onto the famous Tower Ridge of Ben Nevis as your first Scottish winter climb. The Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team has escorted dozens of shivering ‘all nighters’ off this route in the dull grey hours of dawn! Try something shorter to start with as a ‘Wee Scottish Apprenticeship’.

A combination of short daylight hours and possible strong winds, poor weather and snow conditions add to the serious nature of Scottish winter climbing. Fitness is of prime importance to sustain climbers through long hours, carrying far more weight in their rucksacks than would be experienced in the summer months. Climbers must be economical with their time and aim to keep moving as fluently as is practical, in order to avoid a possibly serious benightment or slip on a dark unknown descent. Records show that novice and experienced climbers alike come to grief on these Scottish mountains, sometimes with fatal consequences. Scottish winter climbing is good sport, but don’t treat these routes as ‘sports climbs’!

The winter season varies greatly. Generally the best months are February, March and April, with some excellent conditions often appearing in April high on Ben Nevis, but not on the lower surrounding peaks. The first winter snows arrive in September, but often are short-lived in the moist Atlantic airstream. October and certainly November can provide good but lean climbing conditions early on. However, these months, along with the Christmas and New Year period, are something of a lottery, with short daylight hours. The easier grade 1 gullies can often be climbed right through to June/July, especially on Ben Nevis, where large patches of snow can remain in the shadowy hollows all year round. Point Five Gully has been climbed as early as November and as late as May.

Weather and Avalanches

The area covered by this guidebook is well known for having some of the most severe weather in the British Isles. A combination of strong winds and snowfall, coupled with fluctuating temperatures, provides the climber with potential life-threatening situations of a varied nature. Before setting out on any climb it is wise for climbers to inform themselves of the snow and weather conditions they are likely to meet.

The sportscotland Avalanche Information Service (formerly the Scottish Avalanche Information Service) now provides daily Snow and Avalanche Reports in five of the main Scottish mountain areas. These are Glencoe (observations in Glen Coe and Glen Etive), Lochaber (observations on Ben Nevis and the Aonachs), Creag Meagaidh (observations on Creag Meagaidh and Beinn a’Chaorainn), Northern Cairngorms (observations on Cairngorm, in the Northern Corries and Loch Avon Basin) and South Cairngorms (observations on Lochnagar, in Glenshee and some coverage on Beinn a’Bhuird). Specially trained, experienced mountaineers monitor and report on snow conditions and avalanche hazard on a daily basis throughout the winter.

A snow conditions and avalanche report is prepared each day and made available to the public through the national media as well as local outlets. Through these reports it is hoped to provide the climber, walker and off-piste skier with up-to-date, reliable information on snow conditions, avalanche hazard and the effect of weather on both these. This will aid the mountain user in making decisions regarding route choice and in planning a safe and enjoyable excursion into the hills.

It cannot be stated too strongly that even the most sophisticated forecast is only an adjunct to the range of information available to the mountaineer. It is not a substitute for good judgement, but rather an aid to better judgement. Comparative studies of snowpack structure are increasing our understanding of the nature and cause of avalanches in these popular mountain areas.

Snow and Avalanche Reports
Reports are prepared every day and are available from:
•    SAIS website: www.sais.gov.uk
•    radio and television news bull­etins, notice-boards and other strategic locations in the areas covered by the daily reports.

Using the Snow and Avalanche Report
You will need to note the following information.
•    Date and time of issue. Infor­mation for the report is gathered as late as feasible during the day.
•    Avalanche hazard for day of issue. The hazard quoted for day of issue reflects conditions found at that time. This states the hazard on a five-point scale (see box) from Low (1) to Very High (5). It includes a general statement, noting highest hazard areas and details of observed avalanches. Hazard figure quoted refers to highest hazard areas.
•    Avalanche outlook for the day following day of issue. This includes a numerical hazard scale outlook. This will be correct if the quoted weather forecast is correct. If the weather forecast is inaccurate, you must use your own judgement to assess the effect on avalanche hazard.

If You Witness an Avalanche
•    OBSERVE the victim’s progress and mark both the starting point and the point at which last seen.
•    CHECK for further avalanche hazard.
•    Make a THOROUGH SEARCH of the debris surface:
        LOOK for any sign of victims
        LISTEN for any sounds
        SEARCH the most likely burial spots.
•    Make a SYSTEMATIC SEARCH, probing the debris with axes or ski poles with baskets removed.
•    If a victim is recovered, ad­min­­­­ister FIRST AID.
•    Send someone for help.

If You are Caught in an Avalanche
•    An initial loud shout may alert others to your problem. Do not continue to shout too much as snow entering the lungs can cause serious damage. In fact, it is a good idea to keep your mouth shut most of the time.
•    Try and delay your slide by digging into the underlying base on which the avalanche is sliding. This is only practical if the avalanche is a shallow one. Also it may be possible to hold onto rocks or trees.
•    Try and keep your head uphill and stay on your back with arms outstretched in a wide backstroke swimming motion.
•    Jettison your rucksack, as it can pull you down into the snowpack.
•    A final supreme effort as the avalanche slows will hopefully bring you to the surface or create an airspace.
•    Good luck!