Via Ferratas of Italian Dolomites: Vol 2 - Southern Dolomites

Southern Dolomites' Via Ferrata routes in the major mountain ranges of Civetta, Schiara and Pala as well as those to the west in the Brenta. Also around the northern end of Lake Garda and the Piccole Dolomites north of Vicenza, where the mountains are generally lower and have some routes accessible for most of the year.

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Bellu 1: Via ferrata Zacchi

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Grade: 3
Seriousness: B
Departure point: Rif. 7th Alpini (1498m)
Ascent: 820m (from rifugio to Biv. Bernardina)
Descent: dependent on choice of route   
Via ferrata: 700m (of which 75% is protected)
Approximate time: 2½ hours (from rifugio to Biv. Bernardina, plus allowance for choice of descent route)
Highest altitude: 2320m, Biv. Bernardina

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Whilst this was the first via ferrata to be constructed in the Schiara group as long ago as 1952, it sets a standard, in terms of interest, that more recent routes have been unable to match.

Of the three ferratas which ascend to the ridge, this one offers the most sustained climbing. Consequently, you should ensure that you use this route as the means of ascent to the ridge, and one of the other routes to return to the rifugio.

The path from the rifugio, which is clearly signed and waymarked 503, takes about 45 minutes. As you approach the rock wall, you will notice a large tunnel-shaped recess, blackened by running water. This is Il Porton (about 1770m), which marks the start of the route. Interestingly, in the back of the recess is a mural, now quite badly damaged by water, but apparently extolling the virtues of Faith, Hope and Charity.

The cable, which starts just to the right of Il Porton, was renewed in the summer of 2001 and offers faultless protection throughout the route. The first 10m or so involve an ascending right-hand traverse over quite broken rock, well supplied with good holds. As you round the corner you enter a gully, about 4m high, which is ascended with the aid of a couple of short ladders. This can be rather wet after rain. You are now in a ravine, out of which the cable traverses left on a small shelf. A steep little wall follows, also equipped with ladders, leading into a groove and then a deeper cleft. This is initially ascended on the right wall, then the left wall, both quite steep and slightly strenuous (at about 1830m). A break in the cable follows, whilst you zigzag easily up a gravel path to a junction (about 1860m). This is the point where VF Marmol turns off to the right (north-east), and is described in BELLU 4 (see Itinerary 2), but VF Zacchi continues to the left.

A few more minutes of easy walking follow before the cable resumes to protect some airy climbing above a deep ravine to the right. A short but steep chimney follows (about 1920m), which marks the end of the cable for a few minutes. The protection resumes at about 1990m, although the climbing is again straightforward, but occasionally airy. The imposing pinnacle of Gusela del Vescova comes into view during this passage of climbing, after which some airy walking follows. The next section of cable safeguards a steep groove, also equipped with several stemples. You are now on the upper wall and reaching the most interesting parts of the route.

A very exposed rightward traverse follows (at about 2170m), which involves laying back off a metal handrail. This takes you to the foot of the ‘Diagonale’, a steep rib of about 60m, leaning off to the right. Whilst this is very exposed, it is not unduly difficult and is equipped with ladders in its steeper sections. A left-hand traverse follows, along Cengia Zacchi (Zacchi Ledge, at about 2300m), a distinctive feature of the rock wall which can be readily picked out from below, since it traverses straight to the foot of the Gusela pinnacle. The traverse is initially no more than a stroll, but soon becomes very airy. However, Biv. Bernardina (2320m) is now in view, marking the end of the route. Like the other two bivaccos in the Schiara, this is well equipped and provides excellent shelter in the event that you are caught out in one of the frequent afternoon storms which afflict the area.

Note: a few metres short of the bivacco, painted waymarking points up to the right, indicating ‘Cima’ and ‘Schiara’. This marks the start of VF Berti, the continuation of this itinerary (see below). Two other routes begin here also: to the left (south-west) is VF Sperti, which we will come to shortly, whilst to the north-west path 503 heads down to Rif. Bianchet, near the head of Val Vescova.