Via Ferratas of Italian Dolomites: Vol 2 - Southern Dolomites

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Updates
• Reviews
• Further Reading

Updates July 2011

We have had a message from a reader to say

RIVA 1 - is closed, but no signs saying so until one gets to the ferreta route, also all ropes removed.  Parking is now around the corner from the Fiat garage. Go back towards Sarche and turn right at the roundabout.  Parking is on the right after 50m.

RIVER 4 - closed for repairs

Anyone planning a trip to this area should be aware of a spate of recent closure of via ferratas, either to repair damaged protection, or to assess the stability of areas of rock. It is always difficult to say with any certainty how long these routes will remain closed, since it is necessary to arrange for funding for proper assessments of rock stability, and the works judged to be necessary to return the routes to a safe condition.

Whilst these closures are inconvenient for ferratists trying to plan a trip to this wonderful area, we should all take comfort from the fact that the local sections of CAI, and the local authorities, are impressively vigilant in ensuring the safety of climbers.

The routes which are currently (summer 2011) closed are:

TRENT 3 VF Rio Secco
RIVA 1 VF Rino Pisetta
RIVA 2 VF Che Guevara
RIVA 4 VF Sallagoni (Castello Drena)
RIVA 5 VF Colodri
ROVER 4 VF Ottorino Marangoni, Monte Albano'

Updates August 2010 to 1st edition (2008 reprint)

RIVA 5, sentiero attrezzato dei Colodri was closed on march 2010 by mayor´s order ( Arco ), to allow for an assessment of the stability of several areas of rock on and above the route. We will try to ensure that any news about its reopening is posted on this website, but since it is such a useful introductory route on arrival in the area, it is worth enquiring at the Tourist Office in Arco to check on the latest situation

Updates June 2010 to 1st edition (2008 reprint)

BASSANO DEL GRAPPA

New map Tabacco 1:25000 number 051 is now available (the old map is unobtainable).

BASAN 1

P135 last sentence - left fork sign is  “Sacello San Liberale”, probably best translated as San Liberale Shrine.

P136, 2nd para - ‘protection is intermittent, but always there when needed and completely sound and new throughout the route’

end of 3rd para - new cables throughout the route but the yellow plastic tube with the book of pulp is still there in 2010!

BASAN 2

Route now recabled throughout.

P139, end of para 3 - The route has been extended above the Military Road 152. Path to 152 goes off to the right but a scramble up above the tunnel of the road leads to a further short steep pitch. This is followed by a splendid sturdy new bridge, another short steep pitch and a final “sting in the tail”! A wide gap spanned by good cable is bridgeable if you are really tall but for those short of reach a “tyrolean traverse” on the cable is the best way across (although we someone seen to leap across, clipped on of course, like jumping Adam and Eve on Tryfan in Wales). The route ends at the summit of Monte Boccaor where WW1 trenches have been restored. Take care to return to path 152 and not follow the trenches, which can lead you off in the wrong direction.

VICEN 5

P162, para 3 - first ladder is still wonky.

last para - the park bench is now in bits.

P63, 1st full para - the way ahead is now signed “Sentiero e Ferrata Ezio Ferrari” path 211. About 5 minutes after crossing path 202 “Ferrata” is signed to the left; this is the Ferrata Ferrari with the Sentiero Ferrari 211 continuing ahead well waymarked towards Monte Gamolon. Unfortunately there is  broken cable on the Ferrata; it is not closed but 2nd full para - At Passo Scagina it is possible to return directly to R.Bertagnoli on path 221 (about 45 mins descent)

ROVERETO

It is possible to use Recoaro Terme as a base for routes Rover 1, 2 and 3 (plenty of accommodation and a good Tourist Information office).

ROVER 2

Seriousness: C - for someone with limited experience “C” reflects the “Alpinistico” scrambling required on the route.

Approx time: 7–8 hours

A booklet "The Museum Route, Mont Pasubio and the 52 Tunnels" is now available in English from the tourist info as part of the Ecomuseum Great War project.

P283 - A number of escape points are marked with a white circle / red dot where a descent to the Strada delle 52 Galleria is possible. (also see P284 para 2 below)

P284, end of 1st para - 3½ (not 2½) hours to M Forni.

The text from ‘It is also potentially confusing‘ to 'a course closely to your left' should now be replaced with: ‘From col follow waymarks to left along unprotected ledges and through a tunnel to another tunnel signed “5C” in a white circle. Continue through the tunnel and from now the route generally undulates along, or just below, on the north side of the ridge, frequently only just above the Strada delle Gallerie, which is following a course closely to your left. At this point a scrambly descent to the left leads to Strada delle 52 Galleria between G40 and 41.’

P285 - There is a diversion around tunnels 46 / 47 due to a landslip ‘le frana’.

Updates May 2009 to 1st edition (2008 reprint)

RIVA 8 & 9 Cima Capi

These two routes were closed from April 2009, for an indeterminate period, to allow for repair work and improvements to the cabling. By mid-May, work was well advanced, and it seems likely that the routes will be reopened before the main summer season gets underway. Nonetheless, despite the official closure, the routes are still being climbed while work is not actually in hand. However, before you commit a day of your holiday to the routes, it would be wise to check on the up to date position at the tourist office in Riva (who refer to the two routes collectively as "Ferrata Cima Capi").

Updates Dec 2007 to 1st edition (2005 reprint, incorporated in the 2008 reprint)

Riva 1
Rino Pisetta. P245.
There is now NO parking in the Fiat garage in Sarche, the space is now a car wash.
However, a short way along the Trento road from Sarche, there are a few unreserved parking spaces to the side of and behind the church opposite the Post Office. Also it is possible to park in or behind the "Centro Sarche" shopping centre, but always check first.

Riva 2
Che Guevara P249
The approach to the route has changed. The Map on P246 is still OK but the approach is as follows:

Follow the road past the quarry and follow "P" signs to a large parking area in an industrial estate. Ferrata / Klettersteig and Sentieor Croz dei Pini are clearly signposted from south west exit of the car park to a sign which explains the opening dates of Rif Don Zio (May to October, Saturday and Sunday). The new approach to the ferrata follows a way-marked path on the south side of the quarry (on your right) which works it way up through woods towards the base of a wall above. The first new cable (a handrail and some steps) is reached in about 20 minutes at around 400m. In a further 5 minutes there is a short descent followed by some steeper quite airy climbing. After this short section of ferrata, you now follow a well-defined path which continues north and west for a while, before turning west and south. Now on the original approach you climb a series of steps (some scrambling, some cabling and some stemples) passing a number of rocks with the spot heights and “Quota” painted on them.
    The start of the route proper starts to the left of a large pinnacle with “Via Ferrata Ernesto Che Guevara Quota 675m” painted on the rock. There is also a sign on the rock indicating that it is dangerous to climb the route in the winter. The approach to the ferrata takes about an hour.

P252 Descent
An alternative way down from Monte Casale is to descend north on path 427 but this involves a longer circuit, including descent to Sarche and then having to return from there.”

Riva 3
Sentiero Anglone P253 / 5
Sentiero Anglone is now shown as Senter Dell'Angiom at first main road signpost (it’s still path 425). In 100m the signpost left off the road shows “Lastoni and S. Giovanni al Monte” and it’s not until the next signpost after the house on the right that Sentiero Anglone shows up!

Riva 4
Rio Sallgoni P257
Feedback on the grading of this route.
“Fairly tall ferratists might feel this route is over graded: shorter ones will consider the grade entirely justified!”

Riva 8 and 9
Cima Capi P 270
P270 line 8 – the unnecessary handrail has disappeared
P271 end of penultimate paragraph. There are now no drinks or honesty box at Bivacco Fransceso Arcioni.
P272 first paragraph of Riva 9; The “handrail up an open gully” has been recabled.

Riva 11
Page 278 Via Ferrata Spigolo - approach rewording
 “you can drive comfortably to an altitude of about 520m. There are quite a few parking opportunities in the final kilometre including right at the end (if you have a 4WD) at a sign “563m Loc Verghere” and “1/25 Passo Spino Rif Perlo”.
“Five minutes from Loc. Verghere is the first of three stream crossings: after heavy rain these may be difficult if not impossible to cross.”
And a new route;
“We have a report from Les Ainsworth of a short hard via ferrata, VF Ernesto Franco, in this area but we have not the opportunity to research it ourselves. Les suggests that the grade is 5B.”

January 2006: Updates to 1st edition (repr. 2005)

BOLZ 3: Monte Roen

The Campo-Golf chairlift has recently begun opening in summer, albeit with limited hours. Consequently, you should check the situation locally, or make enquiries at the Tourist Office before you leave.

Path 521, has now been renumbered as Path 500 on the ground, although local maps still show the original numbering.

TRENT 1: Burrone di Mezzocorona

There is now a second, larger, car park (beyond the one by the picnic benches) by the stream as it emerges from the woods. The path from here goes straight up beside the stream. If the originally described car park is used, the path splits shortly into the woods and you follow the lower path marked ‘Esposta’ (not the upper marked ‘Regolare’), otherwise you miss out the best bits – the first ladder and cables.

TRENT 2: Sentiero Attrezzato Favogna

It is worth noting that some patches of black rock, in the area below the route book, can be very slippery on the damp days.

Gasthaus Plattenhof is closed on Tuesdays.

July 2007

AGORD 6: Via Ferrata Canalone

This route has recently been closed since unstable rock above the route renders it potentially dangerous. Work will be undertaken to remove or stabilise the area of rock when funds are available but, in the meantime, you should not use VF Canalone, not withstanding any advice you might receive locally that the route can still be climbed safely. You should instead use the Via Normale as your means of descent from Monte Agner.