Every known winter climb from every part of the Lake District is described in a fresh new format – nearly 1000 routes in all. From classic high-mountain gullies to frozen watercourses and icefalls. A joint production by the Fell and Rock Climbing Club and Cicerone Press.

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Wasdale

Situated in the western Lake District, Wasdale provides the easiest access to Scafell and its excellent winter climbing. Scafell is described in the current FRCC rock climbing guide as ‘A cold, wet crag that’s miles from the road.’ What more could one ask for in a winter venue? And being the highest climbing in England, the main crag on Scafell produces some of the most reliable winter conditions in the district in the form of classic gullies and more modern mixed routes. Please see the map ‘Langdale and Wasdale’ on pages 42–3.

But though Scafell may be the jewel in the crown, there are other good crags accessible from the valley. The gullies of Wasdale Screes in particular can give some of the longest water-ice climbs in the region.

In summer, most people approach Wasdale over the passes of Wrynose and Hard Knott, but even in a mild winter this is not really an option, though Ulpha Pass is often drivable if the steep road out of Ulpha village is ice free. A safer but longer alternative is to take the A595 coast road, leaving it before or after Holmrook for Stanton Bridge, Nether Wasdale, then go along Wast Water to the head of the valley. If travelling from the north, leave the A595 at Gosforth.

The crags are described anti-clockwise around the valley.

Wasdale Screes

(NY 155 043)
Alt. 260m  North facing
These large broken crags above the screes at the foot of the south-eastern end of Wast Water are seamed by a series of gullies named alphabetically from left to right. As the climbs start at a low altitude, a prolonged period of frost is required before they come into condition, but when they do, they give classic water-ice routes.

The shortest approach is by the footpath from opposite Woodhow Farm (NY 140 042), at the west end of the lake. There is limited parking here or at the YHA at Wasdale Hall (NY 145 045) further along the road.

Wasdale Screes are very important for rare alpine plants – there are really rare things here, especially on the south-west end nearer Whin Rigg; generally they can be found on the most unstable and loose bits. Please only climb here in truly frozen conditions (climbing on the buttresses is to be discouraged at any time – see the chapter on ‘Winter Climbing and Nature Conservation’).

The climbs are described from right to left as approached from the west, with the pump house at the end of the lake serving as a convenient reference point. (NB the gullies have been wrongly identified in a number of previous summer and winter guides and have now been named correctly.) The easiest descent is to gain the path running along the top of the crag and follow it south-west, over Whin Rigg summit, and continue down the east side of Greathall Gill to the west (right, looking up) of the main crag.

Greathall Gill      Early 1970s
Situated well to the right of the main crags, this tree-filled gully occasionally freezes to give two steep ice pitches of 10 to 15m about halfway up the gill, with tree belays at the top.

The iced slabs below the west end of the Screes offer a good place for beginners to practise technique.

E Gully      130m  II  Early 1970s
The rightmost of two shallow gullies at the west end of the crag, directly above the pump house. This tends to take less drainage than the major lines so can be a bit thin.

D Gully      130m  II  Early 1970s
Approximately 30m left is another, slightly better defined gully. Both these gullies open out to easy ground well before the top of the crag is reached.

C Gully      230m  IV  HH  1963
The prominent deep cleft originally named by the Victorian pioneers: the first of the major gullies reached from the right.
1     50m. Short ice pitches lead to a steep corner.
2     35m. Take the corner direct, or alternatively traverse right to a ramp which leads back to the gully bed after 10m. Continue to below the big ice pitch and belay on the left.
3     20m. Climb the centre of the ice, moving left at the top.
4     20m. Amble easily up the gully bed and climb a short crack; this can be avoided on the left. Continue up to belay in the amphitheatre.
5     30m. The frozen waterslide; climb this, and easy snow, to a peg belay below the final pitch.
6     25m. The final steep ice pitch. Surmount a bulge near the top to pull into the gully above.
7     50m. Easy snow leads to a belay.

The Ramp      230m  II  Early 1970s
Starting just right of Great Gully, and approximately 70m to the left of C Gully, a steep ramp curves up through the buttress to the right of Great Gully. It forms several ice pitches interspersed with snow and old bits of aeroplane wreckage, and finishes near the top of C Gully: the first pitch is the steepest. The route has been used as a descent by those competent, but is not recommended.

The Ramp Left-Hand      230m  II/III  Early 1970s
Follow The Ramp for 2 or 3 pitches until a hanging gully forming an obvious drainage line appears on the left (120m). Climb the short icefall into a narrow chimney (crux), and follow this into the deeper gully bed. Follow the gully to the top (110m).

Great (B) Gully      240m  III  HH  1892
This, the biggest of the gullies, contains the huge Amphitheatre in its upper part. Most of the pitches are interspersed with scrambling.
1     35m. Two short icefalls and scrambling lead up to where the subsidiary gully runs up right.
2     20m. Steepening ice leads to a bulge and a final pull over to belay.
3     45m. More scrambling leads to the Waterslide Pitch, and sometimes a further small pitch.
4     25m. Easy ground leads into the Amphitheatre.
5     50m. Continue up to the left branch, passing two more ice pitches, to where the gully narrows once again.
6     10m. Steep ice is bridged to belay below the final crack.
7     55m. The final steep 10m pitch leads to a snow slope which is followed to the summit.

Right-Hand Branch      100m  V (4)  HHH  1978
The magnificent icefall to the right of the Amphitheatre, if complete, gives a stupendous 90m of continuous ice. After the first pitch, rock belays are available but are poor in the upper reaches where ice screws may be preferable. Once in the Amphitheatre, the route can be seen.
1     30m. An easy gully line leads up to the start. Follow the steepening ice cone towards the overhang which is turned on the left; belay on the left.
2     40m. Move back right to the centre of the icefall and climb straight up over bulges. A poor rock belay can be found on the left, or use ice screws.
3     30m. Climb diagonally right for 15m then up to where the angle eases.

Chimney Finish      65m  II/III  1984/5
This lies to the right of the Great Gully ordinary finish, between this and the finish of the Right-Hand Branch. It is best approached from the foot of the Right-Hand Branch, passing over vegetation and an icy groove. Struggle your way up the steep chimney.

A Gully      160m  II  Early 1970s
The next gully lies 150m left of Great Gully and immediately left of the largest buttress. This wide open scree gully contains just two awkward steps, and may be used as a descent if care is taken.

Seven Pitch Gully      260m  II  Early 1970s
About 150m left of A Gully, this is the furthest left (east) of the gullies and gives several interesting short steep ice pitches in magnificent scenery. The route is obvious in its lower reaches: at the top go left for the normal finish, or take the wide gully to the right for a pleasant alternative ice pitch.

Variation Icefall      III  Early 1970s
At about half-height, steep ice on the right wall leads to a traverse left. An awkward descent then allows the main gully to be rejoined. Alternatively continue on up rightwards to the summit. A sheep track can also be traversed right at this point, and a descent down an icy ramp leads to A Gully.

The small crag of Low Adam Crag (NY 158 047) lies below the Screes at an altitude of about 260m and faces north-west, opposite the point where the upper road into Wasdale reaches the lakeside. The following climb is located about 100m above it.

Juniper Ridge      130m  I/II  Early 1970s
The climb starts in a gully left of, and below, a big pinnacle. Under good snow conditions it provides an interesting corniced ridge route. From the gully, gain the ridge and pass the large pinnacle on its right. Continue up the meandering ridge to the summit.