Lakeland Fellranger - Walking the Near Eastern Fells

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28 RED SCREES (777m, 2549ft)

The fell has obvious attraction – it’s a real individualist, the Mohammed Ali of the range. Packing a punch structurally, it is in every dimension a mountain, and it can honestly brag the best skyline view of the High Street range, with a brilliant vista towards Helvellyn to boot. At 457m (1500ft) the Kirkstone Pass, forming the bridgehead with the Far Eastern Fells, elevates at least one ascent to such an extent as to bring the 777m (2549ft) fell on a par with lowly Arnison Crag in terms of a climb. A mere 300m (1000ft) of, it has to be said, torrid climbing, caused by the tide of walkers on a route ill suited to the burden, puts the walker on a superb fell-top. This apart, it is no wonder why so many walkers make Red Screes a regular expedition, though discerning folk would only countenance the climb from Ambleside either via Scandale or, best of all, the south ridge via Snarker Pike.

From whichever direction one climbs the fell, one cannot but notice the sheer amount of drystone walling dividing the fell. Probably no other comparable fell in Lakeland is partitioned more thoroughly. Stone is plentiful right enough, and even today Pets Quarry, etching into the flank of Snarker Pike, is an active source of superb green granite. The earliest record of walling in this area is in 1551, within the documents of the Browne family, yeoman farmers of Townend Farm, Troutbeck, for over 300 years. At this time they made an agreement that by 1st May 1553 the men of the townships of Ambleside and Troutbeck should build in rood sections (equivalent to 7m) a fence (wall) over Wansfell Pike, via Baystones, climbing onto Red Screes direct from the Kirkstone Pass. Of the array of tumbled boulders beneath Kilnshaw’s Chimney one is a landmark without question. The Kirk Stone, so named from its appearance, linked with the superstitions of a goblin’s church, still carries evidence of a former coat of white-wash, so daubed for tourist attention. Kilnshaw’s Chimney itself, reached at the top of the over-popular climb from the Kirkstone Inn, is easily picked out when viewed from the pass. A dark gully spewing copious red scree, this cleft is now ill suited to exploration, while the name suggests association with an early ascendant.

ASCENT from Ambleside (17)

Most visitors will know Ambleside for its bustling lakeside setting, its shops, cafes and, yes, the traffic! The fellwalker, lifting his eyes, will consider more the town’s situation at the foot mighty Red Screes. This is a fell of stature and independence, commanding attention from a distance to the north or south. Unquestionably the most attractive approach to this great whale-back of a fell begins apparently far away in this urban setting. Valley approaches lead via Stock Ghyll and Scandale. But pride of place goes to the south ridge. In fact it is so steady a climb that thoughts of the objective can easily be forgotten with attention drifting first back into the valley, then to the tantalising western horizon and, as higher ground is gained, eastward to a skyline of yet more fells. Only when Snarker Pike is reached does one’s attention focus back on the original purpose of the expedition.

Via the South ridge  725m/2380ft, 6.5km/4 miles

1 Bridge Lane, and right into Ellerigg Road. Bear right on a footpath by Eller Beck Cottages, which leads via wall-gates to a stile and on into a gated lane, with a pleasing view down over Ambleside. The lane leads to a gate that re-emerges into the Kirkstone Road above the town. Ascend the road and, a matter of 300m beyond Sunny Bank Cottages, find a wooden hand-gate to the left. Pass through the cattle crush, ascending the broad, irregular walled drove-lane winding up to a stile, where a holding pen intervenes in the lane. Keep within the lane and enjoy extensive views over Rydal Water to a backdrop of Coniston and Langdale Fells. Starting from the Rydal Road car park, cross into Smithy Brow. Ascend beyond the Golden Rule via Kirkstone Road, go left into Sweden

Pass through a hand-gate in a wall, and the broad green lane, frequently challenged by marshy ground, rises to a ladder-stile. One may go up, immediately right by the wall, then left once on top of the ridge, or continue ahead rising more steadily onto the ridge. The ridge makes a definite grassy sweep up to Snarker Pike, the cairn sitting on a bare patch of rock on the far (east) side of the wall. The name Snarker is intriguing and rare, and was the dialect for ‘snake’, thus the name meant ‘the place of adders’. Encounters must always have been exceptional events, and the chances of anyone seeing an adder here in present conditions is so remote as to merit mention on the World Service! The ridge path leads on through a gap in a cross-ridge wall to reach a cairn above Raven Crag. As you overlook a rough combe, the eyes are naturally drawn down to the Kirkstone Inn. From this stance it is easy to spot the runs of burnt ochre-coloured scree from which the fell-name derives. Several pools lie on the plateau leading to the summit, the last being a very definite tarn

Via Scandale  730m/2400ft, 7.5km/4.75 miles

2 Alternatively, continue along Sweden Bridge Lane and the succeeding out-gang (a shepherds’ drove lane to selective fell pasture – necessary where different flock-holders had their own enclosures on either flank of the dale), which leads the length of Scandale. Rise to the ladder-stile in the saddle of Scandale Pass and go right with the wall, climbing via the slabs of Broad Crag onto the summit plateau. 3 Or, with some thought for the walling tradition of the fell, bear right immediately after passing through the gate at the end of the out-gang and rise to a hand-gate. Skirt to the left of a small outcrop and climb the fellside, drifting left on the trace of a sled-gate (track for pony-drawn sledges used to haul stone) that leads to a prominent wallers’ quarry. Follow the wall up, and at the wall junction slant half-left to the summit.

Via Middle Grove  730m/2400ft, 8km/5 miles

4 This route goes via Stock Ghyll. From Rydal Road car park go right along the footway into town, branching left from the street between the Market Hall and Barclays Bank. Bear left, signed ‘to the waterfalls’. The road rises beside Stock Ghyll. One may enter Stock Ghyll Wood (park), follow a circular path clockwise via footbridges embracing the falls, and exit at the turnstile. The unenclosed road advances beyond the cattle grid. Pass ‘Mountain View’, a bungalow which enjoys an enviable exclusive view towards the Langdale Pikes. Directly after Low Grove one may bear left on a footpath that traverses the valley to the menagerie of domestic stock at Roundhill Farm, joining Route 1 at Sunny Bank Cottages. Otherwise, continue to Middle Grove Farm. As you pass through gates, tarmac is replaced by a rough tracked lane, yielding to a partly cobbled green lane. The track fords a gill as green-way and passes the ruins of High Grove, sheltered by sycamores. The track continues, via gates, to meet the Kirkstone Road over by a stile. Go right. Follow the road all the way up to the Kirkstone Pass Inn (to join Route 6).

ASCENT from The Struggle (18)

Direct 415m/1365ft, 2km/1 1/4 miles

5 Making light of the daunting slope, embark directly from the foot of The Struggle. As the road shapes to make its first tight hairpin, a padlocked gate is seen to the left. Climb over the gate, ford the beck and begin the steady pathless (breathless) climb in the company of the wall. As height is gained place the wall to the right – in parts it is crumbling, but is there any wonder on this steep rise? Hats off to the dogged industry of the wall-builders of Red Screes. This wall dates from about 1680, when the Troutbeck Painable Fence Book was first written. This records a fence (wall) ascending from The Struggle ‘between the Forest and Woundale’. The ‘Lords Jury of Troutbeck’ saw to it ‘that every tenant shall maintain their painable fences in good repare or else shall be in pain’ that is, fined six shillings and eight pence. There is no difficulty in the climb, though it is not your average line of ascent, nor best suited for descent. Just short of the wall junction drift left to a breach, then cross the wall straddling the ridge, and angle north over easy ground to reach the cairn at the top of Raven Crag.

ASCENT from Kirkstone Pass (19)

Direct 320m/1050ft, 1.2km/3/4 mile

6 From the National Park car park opposite the Kirkstone Pass Inn, go through the kissing-gate at the north end and, before crossing the marsh, take a good look at the rocky fellside ahead. This is useful as the potential trials and tribulations ahead will then be anticipated and not come as any form of surprise. In fact, a two-way system has evolved. Descending walkers having found an easier line than the trail of the multitude, by keeping more closely to the stubby south ridge. Recent path pitching has given a new lease of life to the formerly sorely eroded lower sections of path on the obvious direct route, but further works are needed high up, near the top of Kilnshaw’s Chimney. While most walkers will set their heads down and wind ever upward upon the primary path, there is good reason to defer a little longer, keeping left to pick up the ‘descending’ ascent, which though showing wear gives steadier footing. The paths meet up on the grassy shelf at the top and, passing a pool, wander serenely to the summit.

ASCENT from Red Pit (20)

Via the North-east ridge  425m/1400ft 1.2km/0.75 mile

7 From Red Pit car park GR403089, an exciting and novel line of attack may be undertaken that reveals the full drama of Red Screes as the walker ascends the blunt north-eastern ridge, though good weather is obligatory. Cross the bottom stile and walk down on the fell with the road wall to the right to find a faint shepherds’ path slanting uphill, short of where the bridleway from Hartsop steps up onto the road. As you rise to meet the wall descending from the combe, switch sharp left. Now climb pathless in steps and stages, deftly avoiding small outcrops. Rise impressively above Red Pit to reach a rock tor, a startling viewpoint, adjacent to the summit.

ASCENT from Kirkstonefoot (21)

Via Middle Dodd  580m/1900ft, 3.2km/2 miles

The northern aspect of Red Screes is consistently steep, to some eyes formidably so. 8 The blunt Middle Dodd ridge (see MIDDLE DODD page 205) contrasts strikingly with the long south ridge. From the Hartsop vale, fellwalkers have to dig deep into their energy reserves for a big pull. This is no bad thing if, like the author, you prefer ascents to descents – in this instance the quality of the ultimate view is made all the more sweet by the labour and commitment of the climb. One may park at Cowbridge following the track by Brothers Water, or begin from the Brotherswater Inn (Sykeside camp site). Both routes converge at Hartsop Hall, from where a bridleway leads south, across meadowland, to the foot of Caiston Glen. Alternatively, start from the large lay-by at GR402112. A footpath is waymarked south-eastward to a footbridge over Kirkstone Beck. Cross the subsequent ladder-stile to join the old Kirkstone bridle path.

9 You may choose to follow the bridle path up the Kirkstone Beck valley. At the point it meets the serpentine road, bear right and follow the steep wall, climbing up through the combe to the col at Smallthwaite Band (see MIDDLE DODD page 205).

Via Caiston Glen  580m/1900ft, 4.7km/3 miles

10 Walkers will naturally eye Caiston Glen as the one northern ascent bereft of the killer gradient. The age-old cross-ridge bridle path leading to Scandale Pass is approached upon the Hartsop Hall path. From the ladder-stile in the pass turn left (south-east), accompanying the wall high onto Red Screes’ western slopes. From the wall junction continue forward to meet up with the ridge path heading north-east beyond the pool to the summit pillar.

THE SUMMIT

A rough wind-shelter is tucked under the summit cairn, and a few yards west a redundant Ordnance Survey column – constructed, with longevity in mind, in good walling stone – adds further architectural detail to this popular viewpoint. Back from the edge a shallow tarn fills a large hollow, and further south the plateau top runs away via several smaller pools. To the north and east the fell falls away shockingly, giving airy depth to the view. On warm summer afternoons one may delight in seeing ring ouzel, swift and skylark enlivening this most marvellous fell-top.

SAFE DESCENTS

For Ambleside (5 miles) simply head south-east and, from Snarker Pike, south, with the ridge path obvious and secure. For Hartsop (3 miles), head east to follow a wall north-east down to Scandale Pass, turning east then north down Caiston Glen. The Middle Dodd ridge leading north is safe enough, the proviso being that during the steep descent from Middle Dodd make sure you bear half-left on crossing the wall straddling the ridge to avoid the ridge-end cliff! All other routes are rough and unsatisfactory for descent.

RIDGE ROUTES

LITTLE HART CRAG  Descent 265m/865ft, Ascent 125m/405ft, Distance 2.4km/1 1/2 miles

This is the link with the Fairfield range. Cross the plateau due west to a wall junction, descend north-west with the wall left. After passing the ladder-stile in the saddle of Scandale Pass keep by the wall and then broken fence to mount the summit outcrop.

MIDDLE DODD  Descent 125m/410ft, Distance 1.2km/3/4 mile

The grassy ridge path falls away north-westwards, curving to north as a broken wall draws alongside at Smallthwaite Band. The wall dips off the ridge into the eastern comb, while the path continues north-east to the summit.