Trekking in the Vosges and Jura - A Walker's Guidebook

The guidebook describes a long-distance route (672km, 418 miles) through the Vosges and Jura ranges on the eastern French border, much of it along the GR5/GR53 footpaths. The guidebook has suggestions for circular walks along the GR5, shorter walks throughout the region and alternative long-distance routes.

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SECTION 3 - GR53 SAVERNE TO SCHIRMECK

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(70.5km/44 miles)

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The starting point of this section is the historic town of Saverne, lying in a valley that has long been a gateway between France and the rest of Europe – the town sits right at the edge of the sharp division between the hills of the Vosges and the Rhine plain.

Once again, most of the walking is across wooded hills, but compared with the GR53 sections to the north, this part of the route starts to involve a little more climbing. The path crosses lower hills then rises up to the summit of Schneeberg at 960m. It then drops to the valley of the Bruche before climbing again to cross Le Donon (1008m), where it meets the GR5. The end of this section, the small town of Schirmeck, is once again down in the valley of the Bruche.

Some striking sandstone features are encountered along the way, such as Haut-Barr Castle, sitting on two close crags connected by a bridge, the ruined walls seeming to merge with the rock face itself. Further south the Rocher de Dabo, a huge, steep-sided sandstone rock topped by the St-Léon Chapel, creates a remarkable silhouette, and beyond Urmatt the isolated sandstone arch of La Porte de Pierre is another scenic highlight.

Of the many viewpoints passed along the way, the area by Nideck has two particularly good ones. The lower of the two castles here stands guard at the top of a cliff, dominating the wooded gorge below, while a nearby stream cascades down the head of this narrow valley, forming an impressive waterfall. There are also good all-round views from the summit of Le Donon, which is the site of a Gallo-Roman temple complex and also shows evidence of First World War occupation on the lower slopes.

This section can be walked in three days, with suggested stops at Wangenbourg (hotels, gîte, campsite) and then the hotel at Urmatt. The third day is strenuous, however, as it is long (30km/18.5 miles) and includes steep climbs, so you might consider a further stop at the hotel at Col du Donon, otherwise accommodation on this final stretch is limited.

Maps
IGN 1:100,000 sheet 12
Club Vosgien 1:50,000 sheets 1/8 and 4/8

Saverne to Haut-Barr Castle

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(3km/2 miles, 1hr, height gain/loss 270m/0m)

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Saverne
Saverne’s key position, where the Zorn Valley cuts through the Vosges, made it a prosperous trading centre from Roman times. The valley was later used for the route of the Marne–Rhine canal, which now provides a colourful marina in the centre of the town. Many fine buildings may be visited, including the Château des Rohan, the early-17th-century house of Maison Katz and the old castle.

Saverne is proud of the many contrasting gardens found in the locality. A rosary containing over 7000 rose bushes is the centre for a number of rose-based festivities, and the château is set in a park that overlooks the canal marina. There is a botanic garden to the northwest of the town, just off the GR53, and the secluded rock garden by the Grotte St-Vit can be found by taking the GR531 to the southwest.

The walk starts along the towpath from the canal bridge in Grand’Rue. Take the path to the west, walking not towards the château and marina, but in the opposite direction, out of town. Immediately after the first bridge over the canal, take the path on the left going up from the towpath to join the second bridge. At the top of the rise turn left, following the GR53 signs towards Haut-Barr, then right along the Rue du Haut-Barr. Keep on this road uphill for over 10mins, and when it meets a more major road, carry on uphill.

Very soon there is a noticeboard for the Forêt Domaniale de Saverne on the left, at a place called Bildstoeckel de la Trinité. Leave the road and follow the GR53 up a footpath through the trees to the left. After about 10mins take the left branch of a fork – the route is following part of a sentier botanique. Soon after a clearing with some benches and a display board, take the path indicated to the right. In about 5mins look out for a small path leaving at a very tight angle to the left. Continue upwards to HAUT-BARR CASTLE (café/restaurant).

Haut-Barr Castle to Haberacker

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(7km/4.5 miles, 2hr 15mins, height gain/loss 100m/80m)

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The castle and chapel are accessible to visitors and there is a sweeping view from the highest level, especially out across the plain to the east.

Leave the castle car park by a footpath to the left of the road, passing the Chappe Telegraph Tower. The footpath continues parallel to the road, reaches another car park and leaves it by a clear path on the other side.

Just before Grand Geroldseck Castle the GR53 forks left to follow a broad track round the base of the mound. (A short diversion up the other fork (red diagonal crosses) reaches the castle ruins, which are quite extensive, but there is no access to the tower.) Beyond the castle the path drops down to rejoin the GR53, and a little further on the path to Petit Geroldseck Castle goes up to the left. Again the GR53 continues round the base of the mound. Petit Geroldseck is a much smaller castle, with little more than the stump of the tower remaining.

The route meets a road at a clearing known as Hexentisch, where there is an information board. Leave the clearing not by the obvious track opposite, but by a small footpath branching off the track to the left, behind a hexagonal picnic table. Go right at a fork to climb by hairpins through the forest to the clearing at Brotsch. The lookout tower here stands well above the treetops, allowing uninterrupted views in all directions. The GR53 leaves the clearing to the left by a path clearly marked to the Rocher and Grotte du Brotsch.

The route goes downhill through spruce woods, forks left at a junction and merges with a track coming in from the left. This leads to the Rocher du Brotsch, a shapely outcrop of sandstone that makes a fine lookout point over a huge expanse of wooded valley. The GR53 is the first path to the left when descending from the rock (avoid the second path to the left, signposted to Grand Krappenfels). The route hairpins round to pass under the overhang, where there is a large cave – the Grotte du Brotsch. A few more hairpins bring the path down to reach a track that you follow to the right to meet a junction and turn left.

In less than 10mins go straight across a clearing and follow a footpath out at the other side to reach a road. Turn right and follow the road round a bend and past the Maison Forestière Schaeferplatz. A few moments later there is a picnic place (turn left here for the campsite at St-Gall), and just beyond it a sign to Maison Forestière Haberacker and Dabo. This points the GR route up to the right along a forest footpath. Go left at the next fork and follow this broad footpath along the side of a slope, parallel to a road, to Lotringer-Baechel.

Almost immediately after leaving this point the route goes left along a forest track, then leaves it again to the right in a few metres and continues to the Carrefour du Billabaum. Turn right along the road towards a huge beech stump with a protective roof (this tree blew down in a storm, but the base has been preserved to show its impressive size). Just before the tree stump leave the road to the left onto a footpath through the woods, again signposted to HABERACKER. A view opens up across the valley to the right, with a row of rock outcrops on the skyline, one of which forms the base of Ochsenstein Castle. The GR53 turns left onto a road just by the Carrefour du Haberacker and forks left to follow the road uphill.