The Way of St James - A Cyclist's Guidebook

A 1570km cycle route along the Way of St James pilgrim route from Le Puy in France to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Uses roads with a good surface for touring cyclists, and averages only 50km per day. Also includes routes from Santiago to Finisterre and Padron.

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Stage 23 - Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo

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Route: This is a very short stage, partly to provide a rest before the next stage’s huge climb, but also to allow for getting lost several times, which is almost inevitable in the area around Ponferrada where signposts are scarce.
Surfaces: Reasonable, but difficult in and around the old quarter of Ponferrada where there are steps and cobbles.
See: The Knights’ Templar castle in Ponferrada and the Puerta del Perdón church in Villafranca del Bierzo.
Warning: Map reading is very difficult in this area. Do not be too proud to ask the way in and out of Ponferrada.

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From Molinaseca, continue along the LE142 until it reaches

Ponferrada 543m (1319/233)
Refuge, Hotel Madrid (987 411 550), Hostal Santa Cruz (987 428351), Hostal San Miguel (987 424700), Pensión Mondelo (987 416351) in old quarter, restaurants, bars, supermarket, shops including cycle repairs, post office and bank.

This industrial town is a very confusing place built on the side of a steep hill with mines and heavy industry abounding. Follow signs to the old part of the town, with its castle of the Knights Templar set to one side, go up another hill to the right, and it is here that the refuge and the pilgrim office to stamp your pilgrim passport can be found.

The exit from Ponferrada is even more confusing. Road numbers have been changed and a distinct lack of directional signs serves to complicate matters. If in doubt, ask for help, although locals often seem equally baffled. At the roundabout below the castle, turn third right and in 200m go straight over heading for ‘Todas Direcciones’ and the bus station. Turn left immediately before Carrefour Supermarket, signed Galicia and Madrid. Once in the suburb of Cuatrovientos, keep going straight on the N006A, pass under the A6 and in 8km arrive in 

Cacabelos 483m (1332/220)
Refuge, Hostal Santa Maria (987 549588), hotels, rooms, restaurant, bars, shops and bank.

This busy, prosperous-looking town owes its wealth to the grapes and other fruit grown from its fertile soil. Try the El Bierzo wine, often drunk out of a saucer in this area. 

At crossroads in the town centre ride straight on, and having crossed the River Cua, ignore roads to left and right and pedal into the hamlet of Pieros. Keep to this road straight through the village and as the road swings to the right, ignore any roads to the left until a junction to the right appears signed 

Villafranca del Bierzo 511m (1340/212)
This attractive little town is the best place to stay before the long climb up to O Cebreiro. It has a famous welcoming, if rather basic, refuge (Ave Fenix), plus a municipal one, several hotels (expensive) including San Francisco (987 540465) and El Cruce (987 540185), rooms, Hostal Comercio (987 540008), Hospederia San Nicolas el Real (987 540483), campsite, restaurants, bars, banks, supermarket, shops and cycle repairs.

The Church of Santiago has the Puerta del Perdón, through which pilgrims who were too ill to continue could pass and claim the same benefits and indulgences as those who reached Santiago de Compostela. There are several interesting churches and monasteries, some fine old houses and a helpful tourist office. It is worth phoning the hostal at O Cebreiro from here to try to book accommodation if you intend to stay there at the end of the next leg. The tourist office will do this for you, using the telephone at the bar next door!