Walking in the Bavarian Alps

The Bavarian Alps, lying along the German–Austrian border, contain some of the most spectacular walking and beautiful scenery that Germany has to offer. Reasonable prices and an excellent tourist infrastructure make the area perfect for an easy-to-organise and affordable walking holiday.

PREFACE

As far as most non-German mountain walkers are concerned the Bavarian Alps lie very much in the shadow of the Austrian and Swiss Alps. This is a shame, for what this border region lacks in terms of the comparative height and extent of its mountains is more than compensated for by the diversity of its landscape and cultural attractions.

This second, expanded edition of the guidebook hopes to bring that diversity to the attention of more outdoor enthusiasts. Moving from west to east the guidebook starts with a look at the Allgäu, a region renowned for its wildflowers, tranquil alpine pastures and the impossibly steep grass slopes that characterise many of its well-known peaks. Moving further east mountain trails lead past famous castles such as Neuschwanstein, which seems to have materialised from the pages of a storybook. In the vicinity of Garmisch-Partenkirchen you can sunbathe on the grassy summit of the Wank while enjoying a fantastic bird’s-eye view over the world-famous alpine resort. At the foot of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain, a trail skirts the shores of the beautiful Eibsee, a pristine lake surpassed in beauty only by the Königsee, visited in the final section of the guidebook. Here, in the Berchtesgaden Alps, trails in the shadow of the mighty Watzmann massif lead you through a landscape of Wagnerian grandeur.

There is, of course, much more to discover along these mountain trails. Upland moors, an ice cave, remote other-worldly karst landscapes like the Steinernes Meer and wild mountain gorges such as the Höllentalklamm, Leutaschklamm and Partnachklamm are just a few of the highlights. New additions include an ascent of the Zugspitze (possible even for those without climbing experience), a climb up to Hitler’s ‘Eagle’s Nest’ and a two-day hike from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Leutasch in Austria.

All the sketch maps have been redrawn, and many new photographs have been added to illustrate the routes. The expanded introduction includes more practical information for planning your walking holiday so that you should not need to carry another general guidebook.

Though every attempt has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information given on the routes, floods and other natural events can erase landmarks, make it necessary to modify routes, or occasionally render a section of track unwalkable. However, a look at an up-to-date map, or a chat with hut wardens and other hikers on the spot, will ensure that such inconveniences are kept to a minimum.

Grant Bourne and Sabine Körner-Bourne, 2007

INTRODUCTION

Those seeking alpine superlatives in the Bavarian Alps will search in vain. There are no peaks that can compete with the Matterhorn or Mont Blanc in terms of height, no glaciers of considerable extent, and even the ski slopes have a rather provincial aspect when compared to such famous resorts as Zermatt or St Moritz. Nevertheless, even without superlatives the Bavarian Alps still have their fair share of dramatic scenery. Their position between the lowlands to the north and the higher alpine regions further south offers a dramatic contrast in landscapes, and the proximity of Austria adds further to the region’s charms.

For the walker the advantages of this location are many. For example, it is never far from the valley bottom to the top of a rugged mountain peak, from a picturesque village nestling in the lush green foothills to a lonely alpine tarn. A day in the mountains could be followed by an outing to historic Salzburg (especially if you are based in either Bad Reichenhall or Berchtesgaden) or Munich from where, on a clear autumn day, the mountains seem only a stone’s throw away. One need not even go that far to enjoy a lazy day, for strung along the edge of the Alps is a succession of beautiful lakes (many of which are suitable for bathing), fairy-tale castles (around Füssen), ancient monasteries and opulent baroque churches. Folklore traditions are particularly strong in this part of Bavaria, evident in the numerous Heimatabende (evenings of folk dancing and songs) and the not-uncommon aspect of gnarled old men sporting flowing white beards and wearing lederhosen.

Of the many hundreds of excellent walking trails to be explored in the Bavarian Alps only a small selection are described in detail in this book. They vary in length from a half-day to four or five days and many are circular (convenient if you have to get back to your car). Where possible suggestions have been made for longer tours, but with the help of the recommended maps it should be possible to work out your own variations and additional routes.

VIA FERRATA

The great majority of routes described can be undertaken by anybody who is reasonably fit. Ambitious protected routes (Klettersteige/Via Ferrata) which (may) require the use of ropes or special equipment are not described. However, it is worth mentioning a few of the more famous for those who are capable of attempting them (the inexperienced are strongly advised to leave them alone).

• The Heilbronner Weg (Allgäu) Rappensee Hut– Kemptner Hut. 2 days (6–7hrs). Depart Oberstdorf. Climbing experience not necessary, but this high-altitude route should not be underestimated.
• The Mindelheimer Klettersteig (Allgäu) Fiderepaß Hut – Mindelheimer Hut. 2 days (9–10hrs). Depart Mittelberg. Mountaineering or rock-climbing experience essential.
• The Hindelanger Klettersteig (Allgäu) Nebelhorn – Großer Daumen. 7–8hrs. Depart Oberstdorf. Most difficult Klettersteig in the Allgäu.
• The Mittenwalder Höhenweg (Karwendelgebirge) Westliche Karwendelspitze – Tiroler Hut – Brunnstein Hut. 6–7hrs. Depart Mittenwald. Similar in difficulty to Heilbronner Weg.