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Discover the best Winter Climbs around Ben Nevis and Glen Coe - a Cicerone guide

Cover of Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe
20 Dec 2010
17.2 x 11.6 x 2.5cm
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Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe

by Mike Pescod
Book published by Cicerone Press

A practical guidebook to the best winter climbing routes around Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, with over 900 buttresses, ridges and gullies described giving climbers a wide choice of grades and types. Scottish winter climbing is world renowned, nowhere is it better than on Ben Nevis, the peaks of Glen Coe and surrounding mountains.

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Size: 17.2 x 11.6 x 2.5cm
Weight: 500g

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Ben Nevis is back at the centre of Scottish winter climbing, and features the hardest traditional winter climbing in the world. This guidebook describes over 900 climbs here and around Glen Coe, including all the new routes of the last eight years and, for the first time, routes on the newly developed crags on Stob Coire nan Laoigh and Mullach nan Coirean.

  • illustrated on 89 colour photo-topos
  • information on where to go and what to climb in different weather, snow and ice conditions and how to judge
  • anecdotes from well-known climbers for further insights and inspiration.
  • Seasons
    from October to May with February and March offering the most reliable climbing and April the unique ice climbing that Ben Nevis is famed for
  • Centres
    Fort William and Glen Coe on the west coast of Scotland
  • Difficulty
    everything from first steps in grade I snow gullies to the hardest traditional winter climb in the world with information on how to judge the climbing conditions and choose the best route
  • Must See
    from the classic climbs of Point Five Gully, the Aonach Eagach and Crowberry Gully to the modern masterpieces of The Secret and Anubis, on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and Beag, The Grey Coires and Mamores, Bidean nam Bian and Buachaille Etive Mor
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List of diagrams           



Climbing conditions           
Weather and avalanches           
Access rights           
Equipment and safety           
Using this guide           
Rescue facilities           

BEN NEVIS           

CENTRAL AREA           

Approaches for Ben Nevis           
Descents from Ben Nevis           
Ben Nevis – general topography

Climbs from Coire Leis           
Little Brenva Face           

Climbs from Observatory Gully           
The Minus Face           
The Orion Face           
Observatory Ridge           
Observatory Buttress           
Indicator Wall           
Gardyloo Buttress           
Tower Ridge – East Side           
Douglas Boulder           

Climbs from Coire na Ciste           
Tower Ridge – West Side           
The Upper Cascades           
The Comb           
Number Three Gully Buttress           
Creag Coire na Ciste           
The Trident Buttresses           
Carn Dearg Buttress           
Carn Dearg Summit Gullies           

Climbs from Castle Coire           
The Castle           
North Face of Castle Ridge           

‘A big ride’ by Dave Macleod            

OUTLYING AREAS            

Stob Ban           
Mullach nan Coirean           

Glen Nevis           
Five Finger Gully Area           

Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag            
Aonach Mor East Face – Coire an Lochain           
Aonach Mor West Face           
Sgurr Finnisg-aig – Allt na h-Aire cascade           
Aonach Beag North Face           
Aonach Beag West Face           

Stob Coire an Laoigh           

‘A long way down’ by Mike Pescod            

GLEN COE           

CENTRAL AREA           

Climbs from Coire nam Beith           
Stob Coire nam Beith           
West Top of Bidean nam Bian           

Bidean nam Bian           
Diamond Buttress           
Collie’s Pinnacle           
Church Door Buttress           

Aonach Dubh           
West Face of Aonach Dubh           
North Face of Aonach Dubh           
East Face of Aonach Dubh           

Stob Coire nan Lochan           
West and North Faces of Gearr Aonach           

Climbs from Coire Gabhail           
East Face of Gearr Aonach           
Lost Valley Minor Buttress            
Lost Valley Buttress           
Beinn Fhada and Stob Coire Sgreamhach           
Lost Valley Ice Slabs           
North Face of Beinn Fhada           

Buachaille Etive Mor – Stob Dearg           
Stob Dearg from Glen Etive – South East Face           
Stob Dearg – North East Face – Lagangarbh approach            
Coire na Tulaich            
Stob Coire Altruim           

The Aonach Eagach           
Aonach Eagach – South Flank           

‘Haunt of the raven’ by Hamish MacInnes            

OUTLYING AREAS            

Beinn Fhionnlaidh           

Beinn a’Bheithir           
Sgorr Dhonuill           

Sgor na h-Ulaidh           

A’Chaillach South East Face           

Sron na Lairig           

Glen Etive           
Glen Ceitlein Slabs           
Beinn Trilleachan – Etive Slabs           
Ben Starav – Stob Choire Dheirg           

Stob a’Ghlais Choire           

Beinn Udlaidh           

Appendix A: Accommodation for climbers          
Appendix B: Index of routes                 

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