Ben Nevis and Glen Coe remain at the forefront of Scottish winter climbing and hold their place on the world stage of climbing. The classic climbs are highly regarded objectives. This selection of the best climbs across the area is enough to offer any climber a lifetime of inspiration.

This eighth edition of Cicerone's classic guide is the first guide to categorise every climb and to describe in detail how they form, in order to help climbers choose the best route and judge the climbing conditions. Being in the right place at the right time is a major part of winter climbing and this book will guide you through the decision-making process to make more expeditions successful.

With snow, ice and mixed routes ranging from grade I introductory ascents to extreme test pieces - including the hardest traditional winter climb in the world - there are routes to suit all abilities and preferences, plus advice to help you select an appropriate route for the prevailing conditions.

VOLUME 1

Topos key

Preface

Introduction

Winter climbing: a recent history

Types of winter climbs: snow, ice and mixed

Weather

Avalanches

Access

Equipment

Additional safety precautions

Using this guide

Glen Coe

Aonach Eagach

Buachaille Etive Mòr

Stob Dearg

Stob Coire Altruim

Lairig Eilde

Sròn na Lairig and Eilde Canyon

The Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail)

Lost Valley Buttresses

East face of Gearr Aonach

Coire nan Lochan

North-west face of Gearr Aonach

Stob Coire nan Lochan

Far Eastern Buttress

North face of Aonach Dubh

Coire nam Beitheach

West face of Aonach Dubh

Bidean nam Bian

Stob Coire nam Beith

Glen Coe – outlying areas

Beinn Udlaidh

Sgùrr na h-Ulaidh

Beinn a’ Bheithir

Beinn Fhionnlaidh

Garbh Bheinn

Stob a’ Ghlais Choire

Appendix A Useful contacts

Appendix B Route summary table by area

Appendix C Route summary table by style

VOLUME 2

Topos key

Introduction

Using this guide

Ben Nevis

Climbs from Coire Leis

Little Brenva Face

Climbs from Observatory Gully

North East Buttress First Platform

The Minus Face

The Orion Face

Point Five Gully area

Indicator Wall

Gardyloo Buttress

Tower Ridge East Side

Tower Ridge

Douglas Boulder

Climbs from Coire na Ciste

Tower Ridge West Side

Pinnacle Buttress

Goodeve’s Buttress and the Cascades

The Comb

Number Three Gully Buttress

Creag Coire na Ciste

The Trident buttresses

Moonlight Gully Buttress

Càrn Dearg Buttress

Climbs from Castle Coire

Castle Coire

North Face of Castle Ridge

Glen Nevis

Mamores

Stob Bàn

Mullach nan Coirean

Aonach Mòr and Aonach Beag

Aonach Mòr East Face – Coire an Lochain

Aonach Mòr West Face

Aonach Beag North Face

Aonach Beag West Face

Stob Coire an Laoigh

Stob Coire an Laoigh

Appendix A Route summary table by area

Appendix B Route summary table by style

Seasons

February and March are the most reliable months for winter climbing, but there is often climbing from December to April.

Centres

Fort William and Glen Coe are the main centres to base yourself for climbing.

Difficulty

Winter climbing is particularly demanding on fitness and specific skills. These volumes include a wide range of climbs, from straightforward grade I snow gullies and ridges through to extreme test pieces above grade VIII.

Must See

Point Five Gully, Tower Ridge, SC Route and Aonach Eagach

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