Walking in Madeira

Rising steep and rocky from the Atlantic Ocean, Madeira is a compact and mountainous island. A rich and varied selection of walks on Madeira, including levada walks, steep volcanic ridge walks, cliff walks and valley walks. Also covers the neighbouring island of Porta Santo.

Madeira rises steep and rocky from the Atlantic Ocean off the coasts of Europe and Africa. It stands in splendid isolation and the nearest island groups are the distant Azores and Canary Islands. Madeira enjoys a subtropical climate that many walkers would find acceptable throughout the year. As a compact and mountainous island, criss-crossed by a network of old paths and tracks, it is remarkably scenic and accessible. Water is conveyed round the island in charming flower-fringed channels called ‘levadas’, which offer anything from a gentle stroll to seriously exposed cliff walks. There are wooded valleys, rocky slopes, cultivated terraces and impressive cliff coasts to explore. This guidebook includes a rich and varied selection of walks on Madeira, and includes a couple of walks on the neighbouring island of Porto Santo.

Location

Madeira is a small island of around 750km² (290 square miles). It lies at 32°46’N / 17°03’W in the subtropical Atlantic Ocean, about 600km (370 miles) from Morocco in North Africa, and about 950km (590 miles) from Portugal, to which it belongs. Its closest neighbours include Porto Santo, about 40km (25 miles) away, and the Ilhas Desertas, about 20km (13 miles) from Madeira at their closest point. Other island groups are far from view, such as the Azores and Canary Islands, to which Madeira is loosely associated by reason of lying along the same huge fracture in the earth’s crust.

Geology

Madeira is essentially a volcanic island, though volcanic activity has long ceased. Magma from deep within the earth spewed out onto the ocean floor around 130 million years ago. Gradually, enough material built up for land to appear above the water, so that Madeira was born about 2½ million years ago. Some corals managed to establish themselves around the fringe of the new island, and these are preserved in small locations as fossils. The overwhelming bulk of the island, however, is made up of basaltic lava flows shot through with doleritic dykes. It is thought that volcanic activity ceased around 25,000 years ago. The nearby island of Porto Santo, incidentally, is older than Madeira. Although mostly basaltic like its larger neighbour, Porto Santo also has a central band of calcareous sandstone that produces a fertile soil and has eroded to form a magnificent sandy beach.

Discovery and History

Although the true story of Madeira’s discovery may never be known, early records agree that it was a densely wooded and uninhabited island. Fanciful tales of Madeira’s discovery do not tie in too easily with the rather scant historical documentation. It certainly is not a remnant of the fabled Atlantis. Some early maps show the island and there is a suspicion that the Phoenicians may have been the first to set eyes on Madeira. Others say the Genoans discovered the place. Some records state that the Spaniards were in the habit of stopping off at Porto Santo on trips between Spain and the Canary Islands. A strange story relates how an Englishman, along with his wife and a companion, were marooned on Madeira, and thus became the first, albeit temporary settlers.

Reliable records of discovery and settlement start from 1418. Prince Henry ‘The Navigator’ of Portugal patronised voyages to seek new territories. João Goncalves Zarco was leading one of these voyages around Africa in 1419, when he was blown off-course and landed on Porto Santo. In 1420, while checking out possibilities for settling the island, he also discovered Madeira. By 1425 great fires were started to clear Madeira’s native woodlands and open up some of the slopes for settlement and cultivation. In 1452 slaves were drafted in to work the land and dig a network of irrigation channels, or ‘levadas’. In 1478 it is said that Christopher Columbus visited Madeira and Porto Santo, and was convinced that by sailing ever westwards he would find a route to India. He later discovered the Americas.

The position of Madeira and Porto Santo, rather remote from mother Portugal, left it open to attack by pirates from Europe and Africa. The islands suffered several raids, resulting in the destruction of property, looting, and the capture and killing of island inhabitants. Fortifications were constructed, such as a wall around Funchal in 1542, but most of the island communities were unprotected. In calmer times, the islands enjoyed good trade links and continued to develop their agriculture, making a particular feature of their fine wines. By 1662, following a marriage between Charles II of England and Catherine of Braganza, English merchants settled on Madeira and took key positions in the wine trade.

By 1807 English troops were stationed in Madeira as Napoleon conquered more and more parts of Europe. In more settled times, in the 1850s, cholera wiped out thousands of islanders, while disease destroyed the vines. Around this time, banana cultivation began to develop more intensively.

Tourism has developed since 1890, the climate of the islands making it a favourite winter destination for richer Europeans. Although Portugal was neutral in the war years, it suffered under a dictatorship and many Madeirans seized the chance to emigrate to other parts of Europe, or to Angola, Brazil or Venezuela. Madeira has been an autonomous region since 1976, and following Portugal’s entry into the EU, vast sums of money have been applied to developing Madeira’s infrastructure. Tourism continues to boom and walking is an important pursuit for many visitors. Fortunately, for a relatively small island, there are plenty of opportunities to explore on foot.

Weather

In a nutshell, Madeira is hot and humid. It is an all-year-round destination, but the summer months could be rather too hot for some people, and there is a risk of snowfall and cold winds in the mountains in winter. Some parts of the island may look dry, but on the whole it is a remarkably green and well-watered place. The water has to come from somewhere. A typical Madeiran day starts sunny and clear. During the afternoon, clouds begin to wreathe themselves around the peaks and may completely blanket the mountains later. In the evening the cloud may break up again, but not before the mist has dampened the ‘cloud forest’ on the high northern slopes of the island. Generally, the greater the altitude, the more likely there is to be cool air, mist and light rain, but it is seldom so severe as to force walkers into retreat, and often enough it is sunny and clear all day long. Be warned that this is a subtropical island, and depending on the direction of the wind and the amount of moisture it carries, there can occasionally be prolonged or torrential rain. The ground tends to allow an immediate run-off, but vast amounts of water soak into the ground and are stored in the bedrock, so many rivers are able to run throughout the year.

Landscape

Madeira’s landscape is one of exceptional beauty and ruggedness. The first thing visitors notice are the steep slopes. Between the airport and Funchal these slopes are well settled and dotted with bright, white buildings. However, there are plenty of trees and shrubs along with a splendid array of colourful flowers. Bananas and palms jostle with bird of paradise flowers and amaryllis, while further uphill are stands of pine and eucalyptus. Exploring beyond Funchal, there are quiet wooded valleys with exceptionally steep and rugged slopes, and treeless mountains at a higher level. Always, the steepness of the slopes is apparent, and anyone exploring on foot will need to find acceptable routes and gradients! On the northern side of Madeira there are damp and green ‘cloud forest’ and ‘laurisilva’ woodlands. Water is abundant here, but in many places it is siphoned off along ‘levada’ channels, through awesome rock tunnels beneath the mountains, either to generate power or to irrigate the cultivation terraces on the southern slopes of Madeira. The roads, tracks and paths that lead through the landscape twist and turn so much that they present ever-changing outlooks on the scenery. Variety is one of the great charms of the island, and there is plenty of variety beside the levadas, through the wooded valleys, over the mountain tracks and along the rugged coastal paths.

Language

Madeira’s language is naturally Portuguese, and if you have any proficiency in that tongue you will notice that Madeirans have their own accent and colloquialisms. Sometimes the origin of certain placenames has been lost. It is useful to learn enough key phrases to negotiate a bus journey or ask for basic directions, but it is also true that many young Madeirans have a good grasp of English and other languages, and the mix of visitors makes the island seem quite cosmopolitan. While using a map, it is useful to know what some of the placenames refer to, so consult the list below for a few commonly used terms. Don’t be afraid to practise a few words of Portuguese. No matter how bad you think you sound, be assured that the Madeirans have heard plenty of really bad pronunciation and yours is unlikely to be the worst!

Island Trees and Flowers

From the moment Madeira rose from the ocean, some attempt will have been made by terrestrial plants to gain a roothold. Maybe lichens and mosses managed to eke out an existence in tiny crevices, sometimes thriving, then being overwhelmed by lava flows. Later, a variety of plants, including flowers and trees, will have become established. When Madeira was first discovered, it was referred to as a well-wooded island, and rather unusually, most of the trees belonged to the laurel family. Neighbouring Porto Santo was famous for its ‘dragon trees’. The first seeds to reach these islands could have been deposited on the shore after floating on the ocean currents, or they could have been borne on the wind or deposited in bird droppings. No-one will ever know for sure.

Madeira is said to have the largest ‘laurisilva’, or wild laurel forest, in the world. It features the mighty til tree, bay tree and Madeira mahogany. There are also delightful lily of the valley trees and intriguing wax myrtles, or candleberry trees. Vast areas of the higher mountains are covered in ancient, gnarled tree heather, with tall bilberry alongside. Walkers who are used to trampling on heather and bilberry may be surprised to find it grows so densely that it blocks the sunlight! Large open areas are covered in the ubiquitous bracken. On the northern slopes the tree cover is termed ‘cloud forest’ as it draws much of its moisture from the mist or fine drizzle that hogs the heights. The ‘cloud forest’ is also rich in ferns, mosses and liverworts. Some of the ferns are endemic to Madeira and in some parts of the world are known only from fossil records.

The bird of paradise flower is Madeira’s national flower, and other famous species include the pride of Madeira and the amaryllis. Listing the endemic flora of Madeira would take some time, and entire books have been written on the subject. There are about 200 species that are indigenous to Madeira, the Azores, Canary Islands and Cabo Verde Islands, and about 120 of these are endemic in Madeira. Add to this the number of plants that have been introduced to Madeira, or grow in gardens, or are under cultivation, and the species count becomes quite bewildering. Non-native flowers include the soil-binding agapanthus that flourishes alongside so many of the ‘levadas’.

Non-native trees include eucalyptus, mimosa and acacia, though there are efforts to control the spread of these into the native ‘laurisilva’. Vines are grown on some of the lower, sunny slopes, and huge areas are planted with dwarf bananas. All kinds of fruit and vegetables are grown on terraces that have been laboriously hacked from the mountainsides. Longstanding gardens and parks are planted with all manner of exotic trees, shrubs and flowers. In some of the parks cared for by the island authorities, many of the trees and shrubs are labelled, enabling comparisons to be made with anything found growing wild.

To delve more deeply into Madeira’s wonderfully extensive and complex flora, be sure to visit some of the botanical gardens, and carry a copy of The Plants and Flowers of Madeira by António da Costa and Luis de O Franquinho.

Island Birds

The only creatures that could reach the new island of Madeira had to fly, including insects, bats and birds. While the species count is low, and some species are becoming alarmingly scarce, there are a few birds that are endemic to the island. Perhaps the most famous is the long-toed pigeon, which lives in the most secluded parts of the ‘laurisilva’. Other birds include the tiny firecrest, the smallest of Madeira’s birds, as well as Madeiran varieties of chaffinch, grey wagtail, pipit and rock sparrow. Perhaps the most infrequently spotted bird is the Madeiran storm petrel, which spends most of its time far out to sea.

Island Animals

Land animals did not make it to Madeira under their own volition. A variety of seal known as a ‘sea wolf’ made its home on these shores, feeding from the fish in the waters around the island. They are confined to the Ilhas Desertas these days. Dolphins and whales also pass these islands. There is a whale museum at Caniçal for those with an interest in whales, and there are echoes of the epic tale of ‘Moby Dick’. Lizards are common in almost every sunny spot.

During the settlement of Porto Santo and Madeira, animals were brought onto the islands. Porto Santo suffered a devastating plague of rabbits that ate everything the settlers tried to grow! The land on Porto Santo is now largely used for cattle grazing, though it looks dry and barren. In Madeira, livestock are rarely seen in the open, but there are cattle, sheep, goats and pigs. Animals are often kept indoors rather than grazed outdoors, so farmers are often seen carrying huge bundles of fodder or bedding for their animals.

The National Park

Much of the central and high ground in Madeira is designated as the ‘Parque Natural da Madeira’. It includes virtually all the wild, uninhabited and uncultivated areas. The few buildings in these parts are generally owned by the government, such as the Forestry Posts or ‘Posto Florestal’. Of prime importance is the conservation of the remaining ‘laurisilva’ woodlands as a living ecosystem. There are special areas of note, such as Fanal with its huge, ancient til trees; the Parque Ecológico do Funchal, where native trees are being replanted; the Ponta de São Lourenço, where flowers are being conserved; and the Ilhas Desertas, which are rich in birdlife. There is a marine reserve called the ‘Reserva Natural Parcial do Garajau’. Walkers should tread circumspectly in all these special areas and cause as little disturbance to the flora and fauna as possible.

Getting to Madeira

Madeira is a popular package holiday destination. Flights are mainly chartered and holiday reps abound at the airport to deal with their clients. Visitors are loaded onto buses and taken to their hotels, with their baggage in hot pursuit. It may look chaotic at times, but the system seems to work well enough. When you leave Madeira, it’s usual for the companies to get you to the airport well in advance of your flight, so expect a delay of sorts on departure.

If you try to organise a flight-only deal, you’ll actually be issued with a basic accommodation voucher, as all visitors to the island must have some sort of pre-booked accommodation. The bulk of accommodation is in the ‘Hotel Zone’ to the west of Funchal, though there are hotels and apartments dotted all around the island. There are only two camp sites; one on Madeira at Porto Moniz and one on Porto Santo. True budget accommodation is virtually absent from the islands.

Almost every European country offers charter flights to Madeira, though the colder North European countries seem to offer more choices. The usual charter deals run from Monday to Monday, for one or two weeks. It’s possible to secure three or four weeks, or even longer, though it’s necessary to search longer to find an appropriate deal. The choice is bewildering, as there are so many operators offering holiday deals, so shop around to find a flight and accommodation at a suitable price. Flight prices start as low as £99 and even when packaged with accommodation for a week may still be less than £250. An extra week shouldn’t cost a whole lot more, but it depends on where you stay and whether you book a full meals service or opt for self-catering. Travel agents, newspapers and magazines often feature holiday deals to Madeira throughout the year, so keep your eyes peeled for one that’s right for you.

There have always been close ties between the UK and Madeira. Charter flights are offered by UK companies such as Airtours, Air 2000, JMC and Thomsons. UK airports with charter flights to Funchal include Birmingham, Gatwick, Glasgow, Luton, Manchester and Newcastle. In the winter months additional airports may include Bournemouth, Bristol and Stanstead.

Scheduled flights are operated by British Airways from Gatwick and TAP (Air Portugal) from Heathrow. There is the option of flying direct to Funchal or flying via Lisbon in Portugal. The only real benefit with a scheduled flight is that you have more flexibility over your choice of dates, usually at a higher price. TAP seems to overbook seats rather enthusiastically, so if you choose to fly with them, be prepared to be the one who gets bumped onto a later flight! TAP also operates 15 minute flights between Madeira and Porto Santo. Sometimes these are fully booked, but when there are seats available, it’s possible to turn up at either airport and book a flight as easily as you would catch a bus.

Although most European countries have relatively easy air access to Madeira, anyone flying from the United States or the rest of the world would be better arranging a connecting scheduled flight via Heathrow, Gatwick or Lisbon. Non-Europeans should also check current visa requirements, though even Europeans will have to produce passports or identity cards.

Although Madeira’s Santa Caterina runway has been vastly extended, it’s still not without problems. Wind speed and direction can make landings hazardous, and the airport is frequently closed for short periods. When this happens and a dozen flights are converging on the island, they have to make alternative landing arrangements. Sometimes a few aircraft can be accommodated at the airport on neighbouring Porto Santo. Other flights may divert to Lisbon, or even to the Canary Islands, most notably Tenerife. There’s little you can do if this happens except to try and enjoy the extra hour or so in the air, and make the most of whatever arrangements are made to get you to Madeira when conditions improve. If you have to spend a night on Porto Santo when it wasn’t originally on your itinerary, then count it as a bonus!

It may seem strange for an island, but there are no regular ferry services, except for the one plying between Madeira and Porto Santo. Cruise ships berth on a regular basis, including many of the big-name luxury ships, while travelling in circuits that may include the Canary Islands and West Africa.