Walking in Madeira

This guidebook includes a rich and varied selection of walks on Madeira, including levada walks, steep volcanic ridge walks, cliff walks and valley walks. Also covers the neighbouring island of Porta Santo.

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Walk 12: Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo

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Distance: 11km (6½ miles).
Start/Finish: At the Pousada Areeiro – 196233.
Maps: Military Survey 1:25,000 Sheets 5 and 6 or IGC 1:50,000 Madeira East.
Terrain: Mountainous, with the narrow path often cut across sheer cliffs or through six tunnels. The exposure is severe. Other parts of the path may be steep and stony, or cross bare rock. Not recommended in bad weather.
Transport: Nova minibuses visit the Pousada Areeiro, otherwise use a taxi.
Refreshments: There is a restaurant at the Pousada Areeiro, and a small bar at the refuge on Pico Ruivo.

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One of the most popular mountain walks on Madeira is from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo. Be warned that it suffers from rockfalls and landslips, and in the past has been closed to walkers! Pico do Areeiro is the second-highest mountain on the island, yet can be reached by road, and taxi drivers take people up there for early morning sunrises. The path to Pico Ruivo leads through five tunnels and often clings precariously to narrow, unfenced ledges cut into sheer cliffs. After enjoying the view from the highest point on Madeira, return to Pico do Areeiro using a path that was the regular route before the tunnels were cut. This is rough and rocky, with plenty of ascent and descent.

Start at the Pousada Areeiro on the summit of Pico do Areeiro. There is a restaurant and the Boutique Areeiro souvenir shop, as well as a large car park. A few steps lead up to a viewpoint at 1818m (5965ft), and this can be a surprisingly popular place at sunrise and sunset, when there is less likelihood of cloud cover. Start early to enjoy views before clouds build up in the afternoon. Close to the viewpoint is a sign pointing the way to Pico Ruivo. It gives the distance as 10km (6 miles), which is actually the return distance via the tunnels. Our return distance is actually 11km (6½ miles). The path is initially paved and runs gently downhill. Go through a gate on a gap and cross a small hump. The path is mostly between fences. Walk down steps to cross another gap, then slice across the rocky northern side of the ridge, where the path exploits a weak layer in the basalt. Cross a yellow grid, and make a short detour to the right to a fine viewpoint. Apart from the impressive mountain scenery, try to pick out a few stretches of the path that are used on the return journey.

Walk back a few paces from the viewpoint and continue along the path, using steps to climb over the ridge. A path of pulverised pumice follows the crest of the ridge, where fencing protects against awesome drops. Walk down steps on a narrow part of the ridge to reach a stone-carved picnic table at another fine viewpoint. The path is fenced a short way as it climbs uphill, then it cuts across a cliff and begins to descend with a vengeance using flights of crumbling stone steps. Zig-zag beneath a wedged boulder and pass three little pinnacles of rock on the descent, then pass through a hole in a basalt dyke. The rock is much harder where a gap is crossed, then walk along a well-vegetated terrace. Go through a tunnel cutting straight through the rugged little Pico do Gato. There is good headroom and a torch is not needed. Another steep flight of steps run downhill and can be slippery. There are fine views of the head of the Curral valley before reaching a gap. There is a choice of paths here, so turn left to use the direct path to Pico Ruivo. The return route uses the other path, so you will be back here later in the day.

Contour across a steep slope covered in broom. Pass a couple of caves, then there is a fenced stretch of path across a sheer cliff. Be warned that the path is very narrow, very exposed, and the fencing may be in tatters. There is a short length of cable to hold onto at one stage. Go through a small rock cutting and contour across the face to reach another tunnel. A torch is an advantage, though not absolutely necessary, and there is good headroom. Emerge with a view of Pico Ruivo ahead, and make a sharp right turn. A short and very narrow unprotected path leads to the next short tunnel. Afterwards, turn immediately right through a little rock cutting to continue. Walk gently downhill and go through another short tunnel, then continue down to reach a rocky promontory.

This is a handy place to take a break from the exposure and narrow paths, and gaze in wonder at the steepness of the cliffs and the multi-coloured layers that make up these mountains. Notice the alternating bands of hard and soft rock, and realise that these mountains are always going to be prone to rockfalls and landslips, and gullies channel debris downwards. Follow the path downhill and go through a small tunnel. Climb uphill and negotiate a series of zig-zags to reach the final tunnel. This has good headroom, and leads from one side of the ridge to the other. Go through a gate to leave the tunnel, then turn left to continue walking towards Pico Ruivo, though you will return to this point later.

The path slices across a cliff face with a fence alongside. Pass a couple of caves and turn a corner. The path passes ancient stands of tree heather, then continues round another rocky corner where the fencing ends. The path climbs through the tree heather and is paved as it zig-zags uphill. Another fenced stretch climbs further, then more zig-zags lead up through a gate. Walk further uphill to a path junction and turn left to climb up steps to the refuge. Refreshments can be obtained here, as well as a bed for the night!

The final push to the summit is easy. Leave the refuge to follow steps and a well-worn path further uphill. At a junction of paths, turn left again, spiral up steps and follow another worn path to the top of Pico Ruivo. There is a large trig point at 1862m (6109ft) and a monument. The summit is surrounded by a wooden fence and is a fine viewpoint. Look back along the rugged ridge to Pico do Areeiro, as well as down into the deep valley towards Curral das Freiras. Pico Grande is identified by its prominent summit tor, then look along the rugged crest of Madeira towards the plateau of Paúl da Serra. Densely wooded slopes fall away to the north coast and the path heading eastwards to Teixeira can be seen. Retrace steps to the refuge.

Leave the refuge, walk down steps to a path junction and turn right. Walk down the paved path through the tree heather and go through the gate. Zig-zag down through tree heather, and turn round a couple of rocky corners. You arrived this way, so you are just retracing steps. The path is fenced where it cuts across a cliff, passing a couple of caves and reaching a tunnel mouth. A return could be made through the tunnel to return to Pico do Areeiro, but there is also a path on the eastern side of the ridge, though it involves more ascent and descent than the route through the tunnels.

Follow the path away from the tunnel, sometimes with fencing alongside and sometimes without. It is less of a cliff and more of a slope, and at one point the path passes behind a wedged boulder. There is a very bendy stretch round a series of gullies, then climb and turn round stony bends. Stone steps and stony zig-zags lead higher and higher, then go through a little notch in the rock and a fenced path leads across a cliff. Go through a gate and climb a little more, then there is a descent without a fence. Go down a zig-zag flight of steep and worn stone steps, which may be slippery in places. There are two little caves at the bottom, and the path is stony as it zig-zags further down a slope of bracken and broom. There are more steep and crumbly steps, then gentler gradients. There are a couple of fenced stretches as the path levels out and begins to climb again, always cutting across a steep slope. Go through a gate on a gap and turn left to climb steep flights of steps. These were used on the outward journey and they lead up to the tunnel through Pico do Gato.

Emerge from the tunnel to follow a terrace path and go through a hole in a basalt dyke. Zig-zag up a crumbling flight of steps, passing three little pinnacles of rock and passing beneath a wedged boulder. At the top of the steps the path cuts across a cliff and is fenced, then it descends to reach a stone-carved picnic table at a viewpoint. Walk up steps along a narrow part of the ridge, where fencing protects against awesome drops. Follow a path of pulverised pumice along the crest, then walk down steps to leave the crest. There is a viewpoint off to the left, or simply continue across a yellow grid to return directly to Pico do Areeiro. The path exploits a weak layer in the basalt, then crosses a gap and leads up some steps. Cross a small hump and go through a gate on another gentle gap, then follow the paved path straight up to Pico do Areeiro.